sweetr33

well obviously when the engine has been running for that 15mins or so the engine bay temps are quite high, coil packs do have a failure sympton of which they will deteriorate when hot, and work fine when cold. Relatively speaking this mayb the problem. I think if u are suspect of a coil then get a Coil off a mates car put it on and run the car, see if it is now gone. Easy way to rule out the coil pack in doubt

do u have a clutch pedal at all? Ur cable could be broken? The throwout bearing used to get stuck with my old brass button when i got the car and i would have to stop on the side of the road. Way i would overcome it was, turn the car off put it in gear and start the car in gear so it jumps abit but then change gears once with no clutch and it went clunk and pops back into place, doesnt sound like ur prob but hey u never know. My clutch lasted for ages one it started slipping, so i find it odd to have it just fail without warning on u, maybe there is more to it. good luck in finding the prob

look in the yellow pages or whathave u. Go to the gearbox section and ring afew places up. Or contact a performance joint in the area ask them.

receipts from when new? Is it still running standard rear housing type? or is it bigger if so what size(ie.87etc) Does this bolt straight onto standard exhaust manifold.

timing, dragging brakes, low engine oil, lean mixtures, all can help a car get warm. Its hard for people to make assumptions when we dont know when it happens, ie, rpms, idle or cruize, temp drop when u start to move, how much higher is the temp really sitting on the gauge. Easiest thing to do is see a mechanic near u and ask em.

pressure test the cooling system, take plugs out while system is under pressure and crank the motor, if water sprays out....bad news(headgasket). There is also a sniffer they can put over ur radiator filler neck and if it detects and exhaust gases then the dye in the sniffer changes colour, ours goes greeny yellow from the original blue colour. also water in oil and oil in water.

i jsut got a hiflow 3 inch on my 33. No dramas.

An easy fix for this is to take out your thermostat and drill a couple of holes around the outside of the t-stat if u understumble what i mumble? Seen it done b4 and it worked on all occasions. brought the temps down to a respectable level. hope it helps

and turn headlights and accessories on in the car with the good battery that ur jumping from to reduce the spike range. Meaning voltage difference between the 2 eletrical systems

the prices in the catalogue have gone up i think. I think 500hp is 2400 ish and 450hp is 2200ish

im for another cruize and am for the alternating meeting locations too!! Im ok even if we meet at springwood maccas occasionally. I dont mind a drive i mean thats what a cruize is for right!!

yeah i enjoyed the night run through the mountain it was good fun. Not something ive done in that way b4 "schumacher" style. 1/4 of a tank well worth it i reckon, good to meet some of u's.

yeah but with the highflow option of ur stocko turbo ur still looking at 300-320hp at the wheels which is more than enough to have fun with.

oh and i forgot to add. I believe that the highflow comes in 2 stages if u wish. Stage 1- 450hp rated and stage 2- 500hp rated. I mean realistically people are getting within 50hp of the claimed hp limit so i reckon 400 ponies is more than enough to satisfy most

HIFLOW OF THE STANDARD TURBO. That the best options i reckon. www.gcg.com.au is where u will find the details or u can contact them on that website and ask afew questions. I just made a similar thread. Good luck

thats nice joel matey but this is a thread about highflow gcg turbochargers not hks3037.

umm u could try new o-rings on the end of ur dipstick to try and increase the grab effect to help keep the dipstick inplace. I remember poping my bonnet and seeing an oil misst all over the drivers side of the engine bay was abit dazzled till i looked around and seen mine had shot the dipstick up abit so the oil was coming out abit. Put it back inplace and it hasnt done it since. Will urs do it if u give it afew revs with ur bonnet up? If so then its something more serious i would imagin. Crankcase pressure is increase from blowby naturally. May be an issue but u could try an engine treatment additive in ur oil on its next service?? They are designed to build up areas that have wear and rings are one area, well cylinder wall around ring anyhow. Slick 50 or a pro mar ML8. Good luck

put the stock one back in, take the power fc and ur car down to a performance shop that knows about power fc's and show em what the G.O is. thats ur best bet champ

im looking forward to getting my turbo highflowed. i would be very happy with 290rwhp

i was at willowbank last night and there wasa black n/a r33 there which impressed me. It ran 14.15@99mph. 75 shot of nos, extractors and pod.

standard rb20 injectors are good for around 210kw but change em to be safe i guess.

well i was told to take the plastic cover from the passengers wheel arch off so help the flow. So i did. Dunno if it makes a difference. I guess u could make up a plastic scoop of some sort to grab the air and direct it through the cooler. S15's i know of have this system, maybe something to think about. But yeah i dont think there is much u could do. Maybe the most effective thing to do would be unbolt it and clean it out with degreaser or something and let it dry in the sun. Get the oil film outta it

yeah i am thinking about the Hi-Flow option. The whole take off and bolt back on side of things is the main eye catcher. And plus the no hassle with connections for water line, oil line etc.

Ok, hiflowing the standard turbo cost roughly how much? I am getting a pwr tube n fin fmic and am probly going to get a forward facing intake plenum aswell. I already have a turbo back exhaust. Its 3 inch with high flow cat and one muffler at the back. I got a k&n pod which was on the car already when i got it and dont have a stock air box to play with. $$$ on those cams?

Hey people basically im at the stage where im going to stage 2 shall we say in the modification realm. My delemar is im not too clued up on turbo selections for my application, u hear about big turbos chasing big hp but in my case im not after all that. My target is 280 rear wheel hp anything over would be a bonus. Its my daily drive car so i cant go too silly. Basically it dyno's at 213rwhp at the moment which is ok but the additional 70+ hp would be sufficient for me performance wise. I still retain the standard turbo, cooler, computer and injectors. I have a mate who can get me a new front mount which brings me to a question. For the application im after(280ish rear wheel hp) Is a bar and plate cooler going to be benificial over a tube n fin? Also the standard turbo is blowin abit of oil into the stocko cooler so an upgrade on the turbo side is another question i would like some advice on. Something alittle bigger that offers good throttle response and power when needed. I would like to be running around 14-18 psi MAX as i would like to retain the standard ecu but can make changes if neccessary. Any advice, preferrably positive would be much appreciated, any additional questions or info feel free to ask. Thanx. By the way i have tried search but it doesnt come up with what info im after for my particular application !!