sweetr33

could try t78... i like trust

yeah i wouldnt change to fmic till more mods were done or more boost is used, 10psi is fine for stock cooler, ave some coin for a hiflow then u should see the gain, i had stock cooler on mine till about 2000k's after engine build, car still went good on highway with stock smic but around town was alittle less responsive than with fmic. basically i would think u would need afew more mods to see the real gain the fmic will do to your performance...cheers

u wont bleed your lifters when doing cams. only time they get bled is when you've had them out of the head, they tend to self bleed but if completely empty(ie been out of head completely then they need to be aided in bleeding process) cheers

ive had personal experience with gcg hiflow with vg30 ex housing.. would recommend it. was great. made 258kw at treads on 15psi on my engine, definately worth the extra coin. do it once and properly insted of being limited to 240kw or a squeeze more

sweet as, i just changed the fittings over on 040 and 044, so previously had an 040 intank, then bought the 044 but nozzle end is different so unscrewed it and swapped em over, put it back in, no worries

run it intank, like me

use one of them or t peice it, not rocket science

im sure u can work it out, where do the small water hoses from the stock throttle body go when its moved to the front with greddy plenum??

im pretty sure he serious, i made 258kw on stock injectors, not intentionally but thats what it did. i had stock afm, stock computer.. but built engine apart from that..standard fuel pressure too... my injectors where a light purple, ive seen r33's with maroon injectors and some my colour... dyno graph follows, cheers. oh n graph didnt have a/f ratio's on there, but the guy said it was leaning out top of the rev's...

guess gtr pump is cheaper but bosch 040 will support mods in future, can make 400hp at wheel with this pump, well a mate did with an sr20, 431 to be exact... i'd go bosch..my 2 cents...good luck

and there worth 3k more than u paid for em because.....

pretty much, when u set a boost level, lets say 15psi for example. its suppose to be a max setting u want to run, now sometimes there spiking and sometimes there boost fade up in rev range but generally u can make the figure set unless theres other problems, but only time ur car will make the boost is under heavy load( full throttle) so aslong as u drive it with light to cruise throttle then your consumption of fuel shouldnt be affected too much, put your foot down and you'll know about it, stock boost is very dull after 1st gear, increasing boost is a good way to add mid-top end to it...but with this makes engine a little more thirsty... cheers

yeah best way to no wat boost to run is to take it to a dyno once mods are done, and up boost accordly, while watching air/fuel ratio from dyno. best way i had not put my foot down through 3rd or later gears till i had it on dyno with new setup just to know what a/f rati's were doing.... goodluck

in answer to your question, if your fuel consumption will increase if u use the 12-15psi(full throttle) i dont see the need to lower your boost to 5-7psi, if your using full throttle to make 5-7psi then you obviously are meaning to do it and want more power so i'd leave it set on the higher 12-15psi so when u need the power you've got it and dont need to keep changing setting, obviously when your driving around town on light throttle u dont use boost hardly at all so fuel consumption is less, once u want the power and are using 12-15psi of boost then u get the kick in the pants feel and ur tank is drained accordingly, more power=more fuel... cheers

slide dont do hiflows anymore....

yeah it is rather expensive but cheaper than the blitz i-colour, such a hard choice, a mate of mine has blitz sbc id-3 and says its great, im heading that way.. cheers

it did lean out towards redline. car was never intended to make the power it did, i went to a dyno day for first time with new setup so had no idea wat the air/fuels or anything were doing, basically just said watch the air/fuels and it came up with that figure.. like others say though it isnt recommended, only reason i hadnt changed the injectors was i had no idea wat power the car was making or would make. cheers

haha good call, you should get this for them no worries....good luck with sale

ok, the pricelist i have the type r is about 50 bucks chearper than id3

wait afew more weeks n save the couple of hundred more and get the gcg hiflow.. wont regret it

whats the difference between type r and the id3

yeah ex housing choice will change rpm response alot, a mate of mine had the smaller td06-20g on his r33 gtst not sure of ex housing size but it didnt hit hard till between 4500-5000. nice once it was on though..

alot of speculations on "stock" injectors, every seems to have different results my stock ones were light purple in colour, i made 258kw at wheels on them, use a bosch 040 pump,

yeah i did the gcg highflow, i got a single turbo vg30 exhaust housing put on the highflow, cost me 1850 at the time, yeah great results, would recommend one from gcg anyday..

at the end of the day its probably not going to be that, but i would put it back on, the heat shields were put in place for a reason, im a firm believer in heat soak and the ways it disrupts performance, i've vhanged to a hi mount gt35r setup but my ive heat wrapped my whole exhaust manifold, dump pipe, intake pipe that goes over engine and intake pipe off turbo, and got a turbo bag for the ex housing on turbo, minimising heat can have good effects on the cars performance... my 2 cents anyway