sweetr33

hey i have been send a list of boost controllers i can get at a reasonable price from japan from a mate, am having trouble deciding which one to get, the ones i can get are.......... apexi s-avc-r blitz sbc i-colour blitz dual sbc type r blitz dual sbc type s blitz dual sbc id-3 hks evc4 hks evc5 trust profec b spec 2 money isnt an issue, i just want to choose the right one.. what are your thoughts.... its for an r33 gtst series 1, modded rb25, will be running round 20psi..cheers

i'd do a gcg hiflow, will achieve your power target and requires no mods to fit...

td06-25g probably isnt the most responsive of the turbo range but makes up for it in power delivery i guess, try a gt30 or a 3037s for more response. I am a BIG fan of the td06-25g's so i would still say go for it, be a tough car then

parts of turbo normally get stuck in intercooler but it is possible for them to go further, try compression test first n eliminate things from there...goodluck

thats good to know, im pretty sure i can get the power, be good to still retain it...

wat do u want to know?? V band arrangement is fine, no problems, common arrangement on large ta style turbo's so sure there no probs with using it on wastegates...mate of mine has put afew v band tial gates on rotors...no worries

theres plenty of people making 300kw on stock plenum, guess its just to neaten the engine bay. im going for 330kw using stock plenum.

u still got this?? wats wrong with these people?? its cheap.. i was spewin to see 25k as the price on 33 gtst with big turbo and mods to support 300kw++ makes me cry to think how much ive spent n how much i wont be able to sell it for when the time comes hehehe good luck with your sale

cant beleive noone's snapped it up. one of the best ways to make your 26 a fricking animal.. goodluck with the sale

ah i see, cost related. fair enough... garrett for the win...yeeew

wat was the outcome of boost gauge instal??

really?? i had no idea...know what happened??

best to contact him through this site n ask whether they still sell em, pretty sure they do, there distributors for them..

more of a chat room than a r33 rb30 conversion thread as topic headlines, hard to sift through the chit chat to find the info needed....

anyway im off man but try squirting water using a squirter bottle onto the top of the flange plate where the greddy plenum nmeets your head when car is running, make sure u put water back in the engine too dont want it getting hot on u.... you'll know if you hit the area with the air leak as engine revs will play up... good luck

yeah but there no reason for water to be flowing from somewhere into your intake chamber, not really possible with the greddy plenum unless theres a casting fault.... yeah check engine oil on dipstick i guess, not likely though, check for vacuum leak also, simple things can be overlooked, line for boost gauge/fuel reg/bov etc

slose gapped plugs shouldnt be required if you got new splitfire coils, should have ample spark to jump even the stock 1.1mm gap... look elsewhere for your problem, disconnect each coill pack via the plug and reconnect n go through the list as its running to varify which cylinder has the miss and work from there

yeah but a water leak isnt going to cause a misfire, unless engine is extremely hot....

try the usuals, hi octane racing etc

wouldnt be disappoointed either way, hiflow is probably safer option, i had one from gcg, geat turbo. and no problems selling it when i went larger either. theres always someone wanting a hiflow but as for a kkr430....well who knows.

ok u need to do it to all the cylinder one by one, to varify which sylinder is being affected, could be that u have an air leak at the gasket n its making a particular cylinder or two run lean, squirting water down onto top side or plenum flange where it meets head while engine is running is another way to check for air leaks, engine will miss more if water is being sucked it to engine....

how are u checking head for straightness?? so no difference to idle rpm when u disconnect the coils?????????? wat was the verdict?

yeah i had similar problem and it was the harness plug on side of ecu not being straight, 10mm bolt was done up tight but it tends to bow like sxr said.... loosened the bolt and straightened the plug, pushed it on hard at both ends as i was doing bolt up and no problems... mate had same sympton but different overall problem, his was dodgy afm signal wire connection, kinda doesnt like when u twine the wires together n tape em up, so i stripped it all back and put connectors on it and no problem...

i had stock one on and was running 15psi, had bleed hole blocked inside it, not sure on wat psi its rated to but worked fine, only reason ichanged it is now im running hi mount 35/40 and stock crossover pipe doesnt fit so we had to make our own pipe so bought new one...

ah my bad, misread the post, thought you'd put a q45 afm on, ok, have car idling, disconnect coil pack on cyl 1 via plug, see if engine rpm drop, connect n go through to varify which cylinder has the miss, if its consistent through them all then its not a coil/ignition mis....