sweetr33

im using r33 gtr rods in my rb25, balancing is a MUST. such an important part of an engine build why skip it>? 1 of my rods was twisted and they were out of wieght from eachother by upto 5grams each, dont skip the balancing part, i didnt get mine shotpeened or nitrided but did get new arp rods bolts pressed in.. at the end of the day probably is best to go with after market rods depending on your goal with the car but if your anything like me you end up wanting more power so really decide wat u want car for n spend accordingly

has been along time, be good to see some results

depends wat your view on laggy is.... it didnt come on boost as quick as stock turbo but once it did there was no comparison....there a little power house the hiflow with vg30 rear...you wouldnt be disappointed at all if u chose this option i can assure u

ok, thats kinda relieving......the last thing i want is to pop a head gasket again... wat a bastard.. guess i'll just see how it goes, been running for about a 1000k since last gasket was changed so might retention it maybe to be safe..........

ok, he built a 33 afew years back that made 490hp at treads n had head lifting off block issues...

hey, ive just spoken to the guy who built my engine and he tells me that running over 400hp i will need to drill out original head stud hole in block and increase size from standard 10mm to 12mm....i have an ARP 10mm headstud kit already in it but apparently its no better than stock cos the setup isnt a torque to yeild design, what are your views??? i WONT pull it apart and do this as u need to strip engine down to bare block and get holes drilled by vertical mill(from what im told) so i'd rather get a different engine made but was going to order my 35/40, splitfire coils and ebc tomorrow but wont till i know that he's just scaring me............ i got o-ringed block with an o-ring recess in the head and 1.6mm copper gasket and arp headstud kit...please let me know if you've heard the same???

from personal experience with the gcg hi flow i'd recommend them for sure, mine had a single turbo vg30 ex housing on the arse of it for abit more breathing...awesome turbo, regretting selling it, on my engine it made 258kw@15psi.. great bang for buck i reckon

thanks SK, your a legend, thats exactly the info i wanted to know, i didnt understand the reasoning behind it but all clear now... thanks alot

hey yeah ive got a gt35/40 with .82 ex housing... build motor with head work also...cheers

hey guys, whats your oppinion on mis matched cams like the hks step ones?? its on rb25 engine, reckon its better to stay with same profile cam for intake and exhaust or more on exhaust side is good??

hey guys, i done a search on this but alot of gibberish, basically i wanted to get some fresh oppinions on MY setup not gtr engines.. im after your oppinion on cams for my rb25, its a build motor and now im on the lookout for the best cam for my car but i still want the vvt to work properly so no big thumperss... basically its come down to the choice between hks step one's--256in 8.8mm/264out 9.0mm or tomei poncams---256in/out 8.5mm ... not sure about mismatching in and out so let your oppinions take place, i have a built motor with head work and a hks adj cam gear in place. my turbo setup is 35/40 turbo on hi mount manifold so power target is round 340kw at wheels... What you's recommend? Also im tossing up between profec b ebc, avcr and blitz id3. will be running upto 25psi through it if necassary.. price isnt a factor, i just want the better suited one for me...thanks

not entirely true, i made 346hp at wheel on stock ecu

gee you gotta be quick around here hey, damn it

yeah would be a top end monster thats for sure, but if the japs runs twin 32/40's im sure u can run twin gt30's...good luck

yeah does sound good if you can get a crew together... good luck with promotting it bud

mate contact me on my mobile.i'll coe see you tomorrow...pm sent

on my 33 there is a sensor on the clutch pedal box that raises revs at idle when u push clutch in, but again no answer to your prob

just put an 040 into it n dont worry bout tampering with wires, probably open up a can of worms.

and you've checked for wires shorting near computer or gearstick?? thats the wierdest thing ive ever heard good luck

pm me your number mate n i'll give u a call.. i'll come have a look at the rims on sat..

ok, my bad, its just that i thought of it this way........ with power comes heat, for example lets say we have a car that makes 400hp flat out, and to keep it simple maths we'll say it uses 100hp at cruise which is only a 1/4 of its potential hence internal combustion temps not being that hot so i didnt think the manifold would glow however at full noise your using 400hp its now making 4 times the power and your internal combustion temps have gone through the roof hence exhaust metals changing colour. this is the way i thought it was, regardless of mixtures being lean or rich, at the end of the day if your cruising you wouldnt think the internal temps would get hi enough to glow manifold unless there was a build up of....back pressure due to t3 flange or .63 ex housing?? now i may be wrong but i dont remember seeing cars exhaust glowing on cruise unless there was a restriction....???????? make any sense?

22 as of a week ago

if ur after response and power package u cant go past a pair of hks 25/30's, there spool time is no more than stock and power potential is much better. 400hp is easily achievable..

um not on cruise they dont, when i told the tuner he stopped n let car idle till things stopped glowing, wasn't even boosting it, my mates hi mount turbo sr20 that was there with me only glowed once they did some full power runs