Ty1

Your right with the older ones looking tougher. I do prefer how the older one is actually a thicker sticker. I felt ripped off when i saw how thin the new one was lol and hopefully the 'o' is less susceptible to fading compared to the older nismo logo, which was my main reason for replacing them. Now If only they re-released the 'nismo' gtr wing end caps with the new logo [emoji57]

Hey everyone, as some of you know the 'old' style nismo carbon garnish doesnt age the greatest and looked quite cheap after a while. After seeing the new nismo logo, i knew i had to have a set. I've taken a couple of pics for comparisons...even though the differences are subtle, the new logo sits up a tad higher and seems to be of a much better quality. This is on an r33 gtst

Had my r33 s1 gtst for over 8 years now and thought it was time to post up some pics. 407hp on e85

Spotted a few skylines at powercruise last weekend. Bayside Blue r34gtr, a 4 door 33 and a couple of black r33 gtst's. I was out on the track also in a black 33 with the plates tyz33

Hey man If your located in brisbane i can look at the car for you and at least point you in the right direction [emoji106]

Where abouts did you get this done? And these are new struts yeah? or did you end up managing to reuse the factory ones?

loving the build so far! very tidy looking 4 door man...keep up the good work

Mods: S1 RB25DET, kinugawa td06-20g internally gated and rear housing ported and ceramic coated, ceramic coated factory exhaust manifold, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, cai, nismo 740cc injectors, walbro 460 with fuel pump mod, nismo fuel reg, turbosmart boost tee, power fc, splitfires Fuel: caltex e85 Power: 304rwkw on 18psi Oil: penrite 10 tenths 10w40 Usage: daily Lifespan: had the car for 8 years now but its only been 6 months since running with 300kw. No issues at all so far [emoji5] Failure: nil

I got mine from tog auto group at underwood [emoji106]not sure if this is the only colour they supply though...

Tools required: Heat gun/big oven, grinder, drill and a basic tool set. Time: half a day if you really take your time I believe there is already a diy on how to remove the headlights from the car so please refer to that. This retrofit was achieved by using the morimoto mini 7.0 h1 bi-xenon kit which i purchased off ebay for $180 inc shipping from the u.s. There is also a diy for r32 headlights but i can confirm this kit works on r33 s2 headlights. The kit literally comes with everything required to install the projectors, including new sealant to go around the headlight lenses. This tutorial is assuming you have already installed aftermarket hid ballasts and bulbs, which is the easy part anyway [emoji5]. Not sure if the r33 s1 headlights can still retain the factory reflector housing but not much modifying was required for the s2. Firstly you want to remove the headlights and remove each metal retaining clip around each headlight and then put them in an oven for about 5-10 minutes to soften the sealant and then carefully pry the lenses off bit by bit. in my case i had to use a heat gun as my oven was too small[emoji54] now you want to remove the factory bulb holder on the back of the headlight which is held in by 2 little screws. You wont be reusing this part as the kit is supplied with a new one. To remove the reflector housing i found that by loosening the horizontal and vertical headlight adjustments on the back, it was much easier to just pop it off the ball joint as seen in the pictures. Just be careful not to lose the adjustment nuts as you will be reusing them. now see the raised plastic bits on the back of the reflector housing? You want to grind these off and have the surface as flat as possible so the tightening nut has enough room to get a secure hold on the back of the projector. Before putting the projector in, you want to screw the projector housing on with the supplied screws. I opted for the mini gattling shroud and couldnt be happier with it! In order for the back of the projector to go through the hole in the back of the reflector housing, you will need to slightly enlarge this hole with either a dremel or a drill bit but be careful to not crack or chip the housing as its only fiberglass. Now to pop the projector in the reflector housing while making sure its mounted the right way and also remembering to put the adjustment nuts back in. There is an 'up' marking on the projector so you cant really stuff this up. Also,refer to the instructions that came with the kit as you dont want to redo this later. I also used the supplied rubber washer when tightening the nut. You want to make sure the nut is really secured with a shifter as the last thing you want is for the projector to come loose and have to reopen the headlight to tighten it up again. With this kit there is also an option to wire it up so the projector stays on when the highbeams are switched on. I skipped this part as its not necessary and didnt really appeal to me. A hole would most likely have to be drilled in the reflector housing to run the supplied wiring harness out the back of the headlight. Once the projector is in, you want to run a length of the supplied rubber sealant around the entire headlight and try to push it in the groove as much as possible. I removed as much of the old sealant as i could but you dont have to worry about removing every last bit. Ive washed my car several times and driven in the rain with no leaks what so ever. Now with your heatgun you want to heat up this sealant and press the lense back in with as little mess as possible. Dont worry if some sealant presses out as it can be cut off with a knife once its hardened and made to look like a factory finish. I went around the lense a few times with the heat gun and put each retaining clip back on, working from the center out. Once its all back together you will definitely need to find a flat surface with a concrete wall or garage door and park roughly 6-7 metres from the wall to readjust the headlights. Proper instructions/methods can be found on google for this step. Now to enjoy having much better visibility at night [emoji5][emoji5]

I totally agree with you! The tuner did look after me though during the whole process and didnt charge me for a couple of dyno runs as we were diagnosing issues. And from what i could tell, he was a very honest, upfront guy. A mate of mine recommended him and a few of the boys on sau have had good results too. Im not too familiar with the pfc hand controller but is there a way i can view the fuel map/settings and post a pic on here so someone might be able to tell me if it looks like a decent tune?

He didn't mention anything to me about the small gap. He told me he was originally going to gap them down to 0.8mm. The plugs really shouldnt of needed much adjusting anyway as the bcpr7es come pre gapped at 0.8mm. He was also trying to say the miss was a 'skyline' thing lol the car feels great to drive but now im a bit skeptical on the tune if he cant even gap plugs.

Just an update guys...had a mate of mine double check the gap on my plugs and turns out it was only around 0.5mm! Pretty pissed off as a reputable tuner gapped them for me too! Anyway they're now gapped to 0.8mm and no more miss what so ever and the car obviously feels smoother too. So...yes, spark plug gap can affect a cars idle lol

O2 sensor was also replaced not too long ago with a genuine nissan sensor as previous one was getting on.

Thats what the tuner said too lol he couldnt pick up any faults with anything but surely it cant be normal. It sounds shit on idle! Slight miss every few seconds rather than idling super smooth like it did before. Oh well i might just have to live with it then

Cheers for the input so far guys. So with the a/c switched on there is literally no miss! It idles at 1000rpm but the miss comes back when its switched off. Once the car is at operating temp it idles at around 850-880rpm. I also noticed when i unplug the o2 sensor the miss goes away completely but the afr's drop to around 13 on idle instead of sitting on around 14.7 which i imagine is normal as it was tuned with the o2 sensor. Does this mean theres an issue with my o2 sensor or possibly the wiring?

Hey guys, ive done some reading up on this but want to get other peoples opinions on changing spark plug gap and whether it will affect my tune. So far i've checked coil packs and replaced with brand new splitfires, new ignition module a few years ago, new fuel pump and injectors, New z32 afm, all vaccum hoses replaced as well as headgasket and intake and exhaust manifold gaskets with genuine nissan items. Tps and aac valve are both relatively new as well. Car is tuned on e85 running a power fc. Made 408rwhp on stock motor and pulls hard with no missfires or hesitation. The only time it does miss is on idle and seems to splutter a bit under 2500rpm. Its only a very slight miss like a cylinder dropping sound but is more noticeable when warmed up. Im running ngk bcpr7es plugs gapped at 0.8 but was wanting to see if 0.9 gap would iron out any idle miss im having and not massively affect my tune. Cheers guys

most of those parts might be ok but the water pump...personally i would only ever go genuine nissan as i purchased a 'protex' pump and it only lasted 25,000kms [emoji22][emoji22] never again will i skimp on parts. What you think you save on cheap parts will potentially cost you a lot more in the long run.

Fantastic diy and super easy! Once i removed the barrel i left the key inside so the pins wouldnt fall out and i could see which pins were sitting higher. With the key still inserted i grinded off about 0.5mm on 2 of the pins. [emoji5]

Fair enough man. I must be one of the lucky ones then. I've had mine for 7 years now and no issues with the motor at all. Its sitting on almost 200,000 kms (which isnt low mileage) with 150psi compression on all cylinders. Admittedly ive only been running around 230hp but recently upgraded a few parts and now sitting on 370hp so will be interesting to see how long it does last. But like with every other car motor on the planet they all require a rebuild at one point or another so you cant really single out the rb's as being unreliable. Obviously there are much stronger motors out there.

I Should of been more specific lol yes the capacitors need to be replaced which is like a $1 part and not a big job at all. Best to take it to someone who specialises in these sort of repairs unless your super confident with a soldering iron. With the board being made of fibreglass it can generally withstand a bit of corrosion and be cleaned up without damaging it. For anyone in brisbane, i took mine to pcb repairs at jindalee. Cant recommend them enough [emoji106]

Hey everyone! This isn't really a tutorial as such but hopefully this will help out other fellow skyline owners with this very annoying and sometimes misdiagnosed issue. After replacing all the seals in the power steering pump, replacing the fluid, all power steering hoses and tie rods/rod ends i was at my wits end. My issue had been going on intermittently for around 2 years but suddenly started to happen more often. In car parks and low speeds it seriously felt like driving a fu#@ing tank! There were a couple of threads which lightly touched base on this and recommended getting into the hicas diagnostics, which sounds like a painful process and really wouldnt be able to tell you a fault within the hicas ecu itself. Even with my hicas electronically locked, the ecu still controls the power steering. Most of you probably already know, but the hicas ecu is located in the boot just above the fuel tank. After pulling it apart on the weekend i could see straight away that 2 of the capacitors had leaked onto the board therefore giving my ps mixed signal(in the first pic its the 2 capacitors on the right with the brown corrosive gunk underneath them). i've attached some pics so others know exactly what to look out for [emoji5]

These engines are rubbish and always have problems? What drugs are you on if you dont mind me asking lol

loving the new machine head!!

Hey guys I've done a search on google but can only find so much. Since you can adjust the idle on the pfc hand controller, does that make the idle adjust screw on the aac valve redundant? Mine is wound all the way in at the moment and my idle is sitting on around 830rpm which I'm satisfied with. Just wondering if theres a negative affect by having that screw wound all the way in. Cheers!