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Ty1

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Everything posted by Ty1

  1. Selling a bonnet off a black r33 series 1 gtst coupe. could do with a respray and has two small dents on either side of it. No rust at all. $20 pickup only from redbank plains
  2. found one! stop looking
  3. Ty1

    Brake Pads/fluid

    $350 seems a bit excessive for just the front brake pads. I got a brand called 'remsa' and they're a really good all round pad. I forgot exactly what I paid for them but it was well below $200 for the front pair. I purchased them from gslrallysport (they're an sau trader) Also depends what the car is for. is it street or track? bendix ultimates are dusty as shit and personally I'd steer clear of them just based on that. I have used them before and performance wise they're ok but not great. There shouldn't be a problem replacing all rotors and brake pads at the same time. As long as you bed the pads in properly. As for brake fluid I just use castrol super dot 4 and haven't had any problems with it.
  4. As the title states I'm after a r33 gtst series 2 bonnet preferrably in factory black. Let us know what you got. I'm located in brisbane.
  5. air flow meter might be the culprit
  6. As the title states I'm after a r33 gtst series 2 bonnet preferrably in factory black. Let us know what you got. I'm located in brisbane.
  7. spotted a heap of skylines at powercruise today. the standout for me was a bayside blue r34gtr
  8. As the title states i'm after a r33 series 2 bonnet preferrably in the factory black paint and good condition. Let us know what you got. Thanks
  9. stock r33 gtr wing! I've got one on my gtst and looks way better than the stock series 1 spoiler which looks dicky in my opinion. not a fan of those duck spoiler things either but each to there own.
  10. hey guys just recently my aac valve started playing up. I tried taking it apart and cleaning it but no matter what i tried I couldnt get the idle below 1000rpm. I even tried hooking my car up to nissan consult, setting the base timing and disconnecting the tps but i couldnt get it to idle any lower. Instead of getting a second hand aac valve I wanted a brand new one and there was no way I was paying over $600 from nissan. I ended up jumping on ebay and typing in 'nissan aac valve' to see if there were any that resembled the rb25 valve. turns out the sr20 s14 aac valve is completely identical in almost every way and only $250 including shipping from the states. I've attached pictures of the r33 and s14 side by side. The only thing I had to do was take the 2 little screws out of the big gold looking solenoid and rotate it so the brown plug is facing up instead of down. I also had to remove the t piece junction for the vaccum hoses from the r33 one and fit that to the s14 one as it had a welsh plug blocking the hole. hooked it all up yesterday and works perfectly i can actually adjust my idle lower now. also purchased a genuine rb25 aac valve gasket and fit to the s14 valve with no dramas. Hopefully this may help a few people out there
  11. yea mate all seats are interchangeable and will bolt in
  12. 1x auto ecu: sold! ignition module: sold! washer bottle pumps: sold!
  13. cluster speedo sold! sorry no swaybar mate
  14. All parts off an r33 gtst approximately 120,000kms on all parts. Driver side door rubber seal. good condition, no tears. $25 R33 gtst series 1 manual speedo good condition apart from a slight scratch on the clear plastic cover. All bulbs included except for the 2 t5 indicator bulbs. Displaying 135,541 kms. $30 R33 coupe door scuff plates good condition. All clips included $10 for both sides R33 series 1 boot fuse box good condition all fuses working and included. $40 R33 series 2 rear garnish in factory white color good condition. $10 R33 series 1 spoiler brake light good condition except for slight crack in the center. All bulbs working. $10 R33 series 1 coil pack loom good condition all plugs intact. $25 R33 series 1 auto ecu's x 2 both in good condition. $10 each R33 genuine nissan rubber pedal covers and accelerator pedal good condition. $10 R33 series 1 genuine coolant temp sensor good condition. $5 R33 oil filler cap $5 R33 genuine nissan radiator cap good condition $5 Unknown nissan speed sensor? seems to be in good condition $10 R33 series 1 exhaust cam gear good condition $20 R33 series 1 genuine nissan ignition module good condition $15 R33 series 1 manual genuine nissan tps $15 R33 front and rear washer bottle pumps good condition $10 for both Brand new gates micro v belt 3pk850 bought it thinking it would fit power steering pump $15 Local pickup is fine and willing to ship australia wide at buyers expense.
  15. hey mate i have that sort of sound too. goes away when i press my foot on the clutch. I belive its the clutch thrust bearing which should of been replaced as well.
  16. if for some reason the sale falls through i'll take it
  17. hey mate, i've replaced pretty much every bush in the front end as I was getting knocking noises and I wanted to freshen up the steering since the 33's are getting on a bit. Here's a list of what i replaced: lower control arm ball joints, lower control arm bushes, tie rod ends, upper inner and outer control arm bushes (camber adjustable), swaybar endlinks, swaybar d link bushes, bc-br coilovers and hardrace castor/tension rods or you can just replace the castor rod bush if you don't want to replace the whole arm. I ended up replacing all bushes with superpro and cost roughly $350 from memory and about $100 for tie rod ends and ball joints. To get the old bushes out I recommend taking it to a mechanic to get the old bushes pressed out and the new ones pressed in. I took the control arms off myself to save some money. F*ck me was it worth it though lol. now on to the rear end bushes
  18. i have that plug as well and have always wondered what its there for. and mines definitly series 1
  19. damn thats bent good! thats your tie rod and tie rod end that will need replacing. the two bars in the first picture are they bent? the top bar is your sway bar and the one just beneath it is your castor/tension rod. As I live in brisbane the laws are a bit different here and it depends on what aftermarket parts the car has. if your asking about getting aftermarket tie rod ends then that won't be a problem.
  20. straight swap the whole mirror man. 4 door and 2 door are different though so a 4 door wont fit a 2 door and vice versa
  21. All sorted massive thanks to andrew. An absolute legend and really nice guy. thanks again mate!
  22. It makes me feel sick everytime I hear of another one go missing. The police really need to start setting up bait cars to catch these pricks. Not that they will as real police work isn't revenue raising.
  23. hey guys. I've tried 2 different mobile mechanics now and neither have shown up and I'm getting pissed off with unreliable people. Would someone be willing to come out to my place and give me a hand fitting the timing belt as I want the car back on the road by friday. everything else is removed (radiator, harrmonic balancer etc) and I generally do all work on my car myself but this is one job I'd rather not attempt myself as I don't want to wreck my engine. Realistically it should only take about 20 minutes if that and I'm willing to pay $50. No tools are required except for maybe a timing light as I don't have one. The car is an r33 gtst. Im located in the redbank plains area.
  24. hey man only thing i can help u with is the dash lights. those 5 big brown, orange looking plugs on the back of the speedo light up the speedo, tacho fuel etc. twist and pull them out. bulbs possibly blown? replace with t10 led bulbs. also that plug in the 4th picture you posted is for diagnostics (nissan consult software) so thats normal for it to be hanging there.
  25. thats not too bad i guess. i might just bight the bullet and go genuine nissan.
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