Sparkys

Yes that's the kit mate. Viva don't have it, I checked yesterday. I've found a dealer in the UK who can deliver it to Adelaide for $2003 AUD including purchase price! However, at this price it may be a cheap fibreglass knockoff and I've had bad experiences with them. I'll check your link.

....for this kit?

Bad luck dude! To get the studs out, take the caliper off, handbrake off, then disc off (might need a few whacks with a rubber mallet....not on the disc itself though) then you can belt the stud out. To put a new one in is a bit trickier, I tend to take the stud hub off, put it in a vice and knock them in

Yeah I read that in the manual last night, cheers Uras & Green S13. It's the thinner of the two temp sensors that I need to replace.

LOL @ "can eat with chopsticks!" Meh, as said, it was curiosity that made me price it. I'd not do it because of the hassle of touching up scratches & dings

I'm going through a few colour charts getting ideas for a new colour for the 32, and out of curiosity I priced a silver/green chameleon paint. It was over $1300 a litre!!!!!! I didn't realise it was so expensive!

Schweet Bubba: I have this awful desire to keep the car as close to factory in appearance as possible with the exception of a non-factory paintjob I'd like to get all OEM gauges working as they should. Next problem to solve, the water temp gauge

I have an RB25DET Neo in an R32. The oil pressure gauge reads at 8 on idle and goes off the gauge when revved. An oil pressure test showed that the motors oil pressure is spot on, so it's an incompatibility with the 32 gauge and the RB25 pressure sensor. My question: The RB20 and RB25 ECU pinouts show that oil pressure information is not relayed back to the ECU so it must go straight to the gauge, hence I'm thinking I can just buy an RB20 oil pressure sensor and fit it with an adapter to the RB25 motor, and this should give the gauge the correct reading without stuffing up anything in the ECU. Sound right?

Cheers mate

I bought both an RB20 and an RB25 oil pressure sensor, and they're BOTH different to the one on the NEO motor! I think I may have to just use an aftermarket gauge :-(

I need a RHS tension rod please, with all bolts and bushes

Do you have receipts for the work? If it doesn't sell, please PM me.

I agree with those who state the kw figure is not the target. A friend just rebuilt an RB25 in his R34 and it only made 220kwatw. He did a full rebuild with forged internals, metal head gasket, he has a power FC, boost controller, oil cooler, front mount, exhaust, hks turbo and tomei cams (not sure which ones) and expected a far higher power figure. But it's grunty as, hits 200km/h before you have time to blink and it's heaps torquey. More than enough for the street and an occasional track day. IMO, stick to midrange driveability, not peak power.

These don't fit a GTS-T do they?

Well I did an oil/filter change using genuine Nissan parts and it still registered very high. So I bought an oil pressure tester and an engine manual. I connected it up to the block and warmed up the motor. The pressures just over what the book says it should be on, so I'm happy with that. The problem is with the oil pressure gauge. I could mount an aftermarket one but I'd like all factory guages to display the correct figure. There's obviously a voltage difference between the RB20 and RB25 oil pressure sensors, however they're listed in the parts catalogue as using the same sensor!!?? Any thoughts? Can I get the stock 32 gauge recalibrated?

Cheers guys.

What he said ^^ Have had this happen before and it's an easy first thing to check

I have an R32 with an RB25DET Neo, bought it in pieces cheap and I'm currently putting it back together. I haven't got my head around what wiring has been done and what 25 or 20 parts were used in the process yet, so I have a question. Are the knock sensors from the RB25 Neo the same as the knock sensors from an RB20? The two knock sensor plugs that are currently in use in the engine bay are apparently from the RB20 and they don't quite fit the RB25 sensors. If they don't quite fit it made me concerned that the signal being sent to the ECU could also be different. Anyone shed some light on this for me? Cheers, Sparky

I've just finished painting an R32 and we left the rear quarters in at the owners request. It looks good, and since we kept the same colour anyway it's difficult to see it's only been taped. However, I'm now doing mine and for the sake of a $40 removal fee I figured I may as well get them professionally removed, especially since I'm changing the colour. The rubbers remained in good condition after removal. Not sure how much it is to reinstall them. If you do get them removed and they haven't done an R32 before, watch out for a clip at each side located at the back of the window down the bottom corner, it can be easy to break.

Cheers. BTW, could a mod please change the title to R32 to R34 Conversion Kit.....as I accidentally wrote R32 to R32.....duh!!

After some browsing I found it's a BEE-R kit. I don't like the rear end as it uses R32 tail-lights still (possibly why the E-bay'r didn't include rear photo's!), but it's not too bad otherwise. Anyone done the conversion?

Modification is the dividing line IMO. Heck, I had a GTti (Daihatsu Charade twin-cam injected intercooled turbo etc etc for those who don't know what one is) and it didn't cost anything at all to keep and run...until I started modifying it, then I racked up nearly $10,000 in no time and that's only on a Charade!!! A mates 32 was bought for $12,000 as a clapped out example, and with what he's spent on it in maintenance, modification, tuning, paint etc he's nearly spent $25,000 (including the cost of the car)!!!!!!! And it's still probably only worth around $12,000 ish. IMO, if you do a lot of work yourself you can get away with modifying cheaply. I've just bought an R32 with an RB25DET NEO for $5,000, and I've done extensive research and broken down my build into three parts: 1. What I have to do to get it engineered, repainted and registered (brings total cost including purchase price to $9,200) 2. What I would like to do in the way of simple mods (brings total cost to $14,000) 3. What I would love to do but probably wont because of money constraints (brings total cost to $26,000) I figure with Stage 1 and 2 completed a cost of $14,000 for an R32-RB25 with a new paint job, killer sound system and a low k motor is pretty good and then maintenance will be around the same as an average car, especially since I'll do most myself. BUT, I'll probably get the modifying bug again and do stage 3!!!

I'm looking around for different bodykit ideas for my R32 and stumbled across this kit on Ebay. Has anyone had any experience with this kit? I've fitted a Do-Luck (non-genuine) to an R32 before, and it was a cheap, dodgy, poor fitting kit that took mountains of work to align properly, and I want to know whether the kit in the link above is a cheap and nasty kit or a decent quality kit. The supplier says it's made in Japan and out of FRP. Anyone who's fitted this kit please post comments. Cheers, Sam

Cheers for all the help peeps! ovrtym33, I'll get in touch with you if Regency say 33 brakes are enough. Do you have the calipers too or just the rotors? ImportS13, cheers for the links. I dropped into JAZMAC performance in Mt Barker the other day, he also recommended Rory. All others, cheers for the positive comments. I'm looking forward to getting it on the road. RE oil pressure, it sits on 8 when idling and climbs above the gauge when revved hard, which I think is way too high. What grade oil should be used in them? As it's possibly too viscous and not flowing well enough. I need to do a full fluid change.

A tension rod is indeed what I'm after! You're a champ Damo, cheers mate