payback21

Yes water is something you want to keep away from methanol. If you have a 44 gallon drum, keep it sealed at all times. Methanol turns to jelly when its stuffed and goes off. The last thing you want to be doing is putting jellified methanol thru your fuel system on your car. It will clog up everything. In regards to the rubber, it will be ok providing there is constant flow of fuel and the car gets used. As soon as you dont drive the car for weeks, the methanol will turn to jelly and it will make the rubber go all powdery. If you dont use the car for weeks, i suggest running the car until it runs out of fuel with the fuel pumps turned off, then blow out the fuel line system to clear everything out. My only other thing about methanol, you cant do short cold starts all the time otherwise the oil goes milky. Always get it to running temperature before turning the car off. Dont just start it, move it 10 meters and then turn it off. It fills the sump up methanol making it go milky. Makes it appear like it has a blown head gasket when it hasnt. Thats just the way methanol is unfortunately. Ive played with methanol engines plenty of times before in my speedway career. Its very good but very costly to run.

+1^

1. AFM faulty 2. Air sucking in somewhere between AFM and front of turbo. Check intake pipe between AFM and turbo. It will run like cop at idle and it will not idle. For all you know, the plumb back pipe to intake pipe between AFM and turbo may have come off. Its a bit hard to see all that when most intercooler piping covers alot of the turbo and intake pipe to the turbo. Check it out. 3. Throttle position sensor moved or stuffed Try these first and get back to me.

Did you replace valve guides at the same time as doing valves stem seals? Otherwise from that, busted oil ring on a piston comes to mind.

Yer man thats wrong. You dont need to pull the plenum off. You just need to remove the short intake hose that goes from the side chassis rail to the plenum. Once you have that removed, its just a matter of then removing the alternator from the engine. Its very easy.

Soz in the delay getting back to ya. I had a look this morning, the steering racks appear to be the same. I did some measuring of were they mount onto the sub frame and length difference in the rack, its all the same. You should be able to use a gtst steering rack mate. I cant see there being any problems. It would pay to take yours out first and fully compare it to another when buy it just to be sure.

12 ok 14 pushing it.

Yer mate PVC valve located on the intake manifold. The hose that goes from rocket cover to the intake manifold connects to the PVC valve on the intake manifold.

Soz cant help but it sounds like Brett is on the right track with this. It does sound like the problem for it not starting.

I know that a R32 GTS4 steering rack is the same as GTR. I will have a look tonight to see if GTST is the same as GTR and i will get back to you.

Do both as blind elk said otherwise it will still have restrictions.

Dont quote me but it should fit but you will need to change the top hat of the AC coz the piping is most likely in different spots. You will need to have a look at both AC and see what the difference is between them.

GTR for sure. Lets face it, it is the king of skylines and it will hold its value better too.

AAC Valve?

Take it all the way out. It pays to turn heater on to get the air out of the heater system aswell. Water will trickle out when the air is out. It does take a little while for the water to come out okies.

Is the car hard to start in the mornings?

otherwise from the above, immobilizer?

Thats true, it does take a little bit of a while to bleed from the bleeder on the manifold. It pays to have the heater on when bleeding it so it can get the air out of the heater system if there is any. Water should trickle out of the bleeder when its got the air out. It does sound like a air lock. You do want to watch that you dont over heat it and warp the head. Thats the least thing you want to happen.

Only if it is a S1 Rb25, S2 are different.

I would find the problem first before using aerostart. Its good stuff to get a car going that wont start but its not always good for your engine.

Moving the CAS will change the engines timing. Sounds like it was left undone. Normally its set about half way on the elongated holes. Its a starting point to get it to run, then tune it to suit.

That sounds about right. I normally fill mine up too the end of the full marked on the dipstick. With consent high revs, alot of oil gets pumped up to the top of the head leaving bugger all in the sump if you run the oil level at the normal full level mark. Keep it in mind dude.

^ A must with GTR's i recon.

I would be confirming first that they are N1's before you crank the boost.

Hi guys, will be going. See ya's all there.