payback21

Red light mean NO oil pressure. I would be very concerned. Only quick test you can do is put another aftermarket oil gauge and sender unit on the motor to confirm its not the origanal oil sender unit and guage. The oil sender units have been known to not show oil pressure properly so check it out. If you tried the above and still no oil pressure, youve got a prob with your oil pump bud.

If its not rings or turbo, i would say it would be more like valve guides or valve stem seals in the head. I would suspect the head to fail more than the block and rings. It depends on what sort of a maintenace life the vehicle has had thru out its years.

To my knowledge, nope! The top part is different to clear the something. Not sure what it is but im pritty sure its different dude.

Yer i would of thought alternator or bat. Do a test and get it started, then disconnect the positive battery lead and see if it still runs. If it doesnt and it dies, The alternator is stuffed and isnt charging. If it still runs, it aint the alt and it is your battery or bad terminal connection to the battery. If battery is ok on a volt test, starters solenoid or starter is gone.

I personally think that it would of failed ages ago if i didnt have a electronic boost controller hooked up to it. Electronic boost controllers make a huge difference to the way the turbo spools, spikes etc We will see how long it lasts when i finish my 4wd beach buggy with the old 20.

Count me in. Sounds like a great day. Doing this for charity is always a good thing. Look at the victoria bushfire charity cruise that happened earlier this year. It was massive and raised more money than what the cops could raise for there own private charity function. Now that saying something..... I think this a great idea.

Coolies. Cheers Paul

Thats a good question. Helmets required for the day Scotty?

All i can think of is that the power sterring fluid tank needs more fluid. When the car is dead cold, the power steering fluid levels are high. When you drive it, fluid levels drop down when the car gets to its running temp resulting in there not being enough fluid in the tank. When turning the car off and then back on i would say its detecting that the fluid levels is low hence the reason why the steering is heavy and the light is on. The only other thing it can be is the power steering pump. Does it make a weering noise from the powersteering pump when the steering is heavy?

I think the gauges are about 1 1/2" in diam

+ 1 ^

I would still check the fuse box under the bonnet as it also has a fuse there for the 4WD system

Yer mate, that sounds like its running in 2wd. Ive got a torque split controller in my GTS4 and those lights come on when i flick the switch to 2wd. I would check the fuse box under the bonnet as there is a fuse there that controls the ATTESA. If it is removed or blown the abs and 4wd will come on. I also suggest checking the fluid level for the transfer case which is located in the rear boot, right hand side behind the panaling. there is a reservoir tank there. This can also make the light come on but i only had the 4wd light come on from that. Only other thing i can think of is the G/Force sensor under center console having a problem but i dont think it is that. Let me know how you go...

I had a very simlar problem with the misses car doing the same thing. After 2 new batterys and 4 weeks of diagnosing the problem, it ended up being the stezza causing the battery to drain flat. The Stezza worked all good with no problems but when you put a volt meter on it to see how much current it was pulling with it just being on standby with no ignition key on, it was pulling stupid amps from the battery killing it. Im not sure if this is any help but do a test by disconnecting the + battery lead and by putting a multi meter between the + battery terminal and the battery lead with the ignition turned off and all doors closed because your interior light will draw power dont forget. You should be able to set your multimeter to show amps and then know what its drawing. I belive that it should be no more than 0.08 or 0.1 of a amp. If it is more than this, you have a problem or short somewere which is killing the battery. Alternator is the only other thing you may wana check. It also may have a problem not charging or it has a short too. You just dont know till ya check it out. If you havent got a multimeter, get one mate coz they are a very handy tool to have. If im not even close to what your asking, just say

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=...1/products.html

Check AFM cable connection too as it might have a bad connection.

Yep, the above mentioned should do it.

Tuesdays cruise was great. Still always good to get out and about. Roll on Oct cruise....

No wukkers Olivia. You have created a monthly event that is great for everyone to enjoy. Me and Allan are more than happy to take over the position and keep it on going. Speak to you tonight!

Thats sucks man. Let it slide for tonight.......... The V8EATER will be in action for tonights event. See ya all there!

Kewl, i shall try this on the drift pig. It may solve the same problem that im having with it at the moment. It also doesnt like cold starts and is a pig to get going when dead cold.

Vacum line off or split somewere and sucking air? Possability...

Hey Sami, hardn up mate and get a skyline!

I cant see it being a prob. My mate Al (2LV8ETR) just put hes stock bov back on recently for the same reason and he puts 22 psi or more thru that baby and its all good with the stock bov, so i cant see ya haven any dramas. Also remember that plumb back system may be needed again.

Give Danny Vahoumis a call from Japanese Performance Centre and see if he has anying available. Hes sometimes got that sort of stuff. Based in Ozzy Park. 9201 0400