Martin Donnon

Aussiemark, yes it is

Our black R35 GTR still runs fine guys. We started it up and ran it for a bit when it came down the bottom. It did however overheat very quickly on the second run and blew the coolant out the overflow. More investigation required here, but mechanically its still in one piece. The commentators get a little excited at times up there

Like LSX-438 said - +1 for AP J Hook Rotors and Endless pads. Better than factory, and cheaper

Now in WR1000 guise.....

Sure will Errol. Domino, in short Rooters car is a built Trust 3.8 engine with ported heads equipped with a TD06 turbocharger kit, Syvecs management, and all the fruit to make it run good power on E85 (2000cc injectors etc.) If you want a detailed, detailed list then let me know. Its a nice tight combo, and the TD06 kit is one of our favourites, as not only does it work well, but its engineered for RHD GTRs unlike most anything from the USA (big consideration that one if you dont want to spend extra money fixing steering rack clearance issues)

Changes to LC5 settings are those that we can do via the ProTuner software such as RPM Launch limit etc. With the Launch counter raised to 12 its now a no-brainer to upgrade to LC5 in these cars as the clutch engagement is even more refined

Car is now in WR1000 guise, with bigger turbochargers on a 4.3 litre engine. Here is a picture taken on Sunday while at the strip dialing in the launch control on the stock ECU. Syvecs goes back in once we have a stock ECU benchmark

Undertrays, exhaust, tailshaft, and a heap of small fiddly things. Its not so hard

That was indeed the shopping car. Still make mincemeat of any Stagea though, and you would kind of hope so

Errrm Matty - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-lancer-2008-13994158?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=38&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597%204294966896%201216&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Price%3a35000%2cMax%7e0.5&sort=default

No they dont, you are fine

Check your inbox!

Send me an email to [email protected] along with your Cobb AP serial number and modelyear/list of the mods on the GTR and I will generate you one free of charge

Man you are good at this stuff Sam!

Here are some members experiences on E85 - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/326710-r35-catback-e85-wsid-full-weight/page__p__5319746__hl__duncan__fromsearch__1#entry5319746

Our 2009 Renew Cobb Tune will destroy a stock MY12 Send me a video of the noise and I can tell you pretty much exactly what it is

The gearbox doest know you are going around a corner. Rear diff bind - very common, will give a crunch in some conditions. Totally harmless

You might be surprised, plenty of change to be had there....but I will let the owner chip in on this one if and when he feels like it

Fantastic Errol...the car is absolutely phenomenal

Just carefully with the correct socket, by hand, and they are normally fine. Rattling them fails EVERY time

Turbo stud damage is VERY easy to do to these cars. They CANNOT be rattled off, they need to be carefully undone by hand, very slowly, and with much patience to avoid damage. Removing the broken studs from the manifolds can also be extremely tricky. Normally the engine will have to be dropped to remove the turbo manifolds and machine the broken studs out, before changing to an oversize stud (which we actually make for this very reason). The dump pipes normally need to be removed to allow access to swing the bellhousing out....which is why in most instances we take the time to drop the engine from the car to avoid complication. Sorry for you Wardski, but its not the end of the world, they can fix it!

Dont even talk about it...now the driveway at work needs one of our big water blasters to clean it....and for the record it was 9500rpm Bloody R32s!

Lovely!

Regardless of brand, type or visible construction - DO NOT WRAP TITANIUM EXHAUST COMPONENTS (OR ANY COMPONENTS ACTUALLY) IF YOU WANT THEM TO LAST. Some race teams do it in certain series, and they throw the exhausts away after every event. They also empty the internals of their engines and gearboxes into the bin after each meeting too. Wrapping any midpipe is going to do nothing other than accelerate the rate of shift in the material phase diagram (overheat it and form other less ductile/more brittle components) and lead to cracking. It does not enhance power and will do very little if anything at all to change the resultant radiant heat from the exhaust. It is a zero gain/all pain modification. Take from that what you want. Furthermore: Kymbo, it really shits me no end when folks like you come on here and whine about us not having customer service, and saying that we told you to nick-off because you had wrapped your midpipe. Those that deal with us KNOW that if there is ANY question, ANY ISSUE, with anything we have supplied or done we replace it, and normally free of charge, and we dont care if that costs us thousands, so we certainly would argue with you or aleniate you over a piddly few hundred dollars. We dont have a good name in this industry for no reason, and its a reputation we protect at most any cost. We arent a nickel and dime performance shop working out their mums backyard. We have plenty of resources and a mature professional outlook on how we do business.Think, and maybe ask, was it me that rang Martin directly and had this conversation? If not, then get your facts straight and clarify with said 'tuning shop' before hijacking Willall Racing on the internet. Certainly I do not recall having said conversation with you.