revolt

No longer for sale. Decided we couldn't part with it.

2000 series 2 Stagea - Dayz edition. Features: Dual Sunroof Tiptronic w/ Steering wheel gear shift buttons AWD Neo RB25DET 18" Rims (poor condition - see pics) Tein Coilovers (see below) Aftermarket Cruise Control - cost $800 K+N Drop-in Air Filter Xenon headlights Full Dayz bodykit Alpine USB/Aux headunit - Good radio reception compared to the original headunit Speakers replaced with Jaycar 'Venom' splits in the front and drop in replacement speakers in the rear doors (can't remember what brand). 171,000km. Owned it since 114,000km. Serviced every 7500km with new oil filter and Castrol Edge 5w-30 Fully Synthetic. Runs perfect. No mechanical issues. Diff / Transmission / Transfer case oils/fluids were replaced about a year ago with the ($) recommended ones from this forum. Front camber kit, radius bushes, wheel alignment done ~2000kms ago. Tyres in good condition. Body is in almost perfect condition besides 2 pindents on the drivers side (were not there 2 weeks ago - probably hit by another car door at the shops ) and small stone chips in the front bumper. Comes with a perfect condition standard front bumper. Issues: - 2 pindents previously mentioned (Quote $100-$150 to remove) - Tein coilovers are tired. They work fine, but are squeaky. Probably worn bushes. Car comes with complete original suspension. - Top of steering wheel has the 'coating' coming off. The actual leather looks ok though. - RH headlight has the usual UV fading/slight cracking That's about it. Not a lot wrong with this car. Lots of small parts have been replaced over the past 3 years as soon as they became faulty (Oxygen sensor, Coil Packs). Overall the car is in very good condition for being 11 years old. I should also mention the car has never been raced/thrashed as it is used as a family daily driver. Located south of the river in Perth. Asking $14k.

Headunit is gone, Bumper and Springs still here. sarz - Don't want to post the bumper. Postage costs would be huge and there are no couriers nearby (and no way for me to pack it).

Hi, Got some stuff in my shed that I want to get rid of. Front bumper (no reinforcement.. just the plastic bit shown - looks to be in perfect condition) - $50 Stock Double DIN CD Headunit - $25 Full set of stock Springs/shocks - $50 Can post the headunit anywhere, but pickup only for the big stuff. WTB: Rear Cupholder

Hi everyone, I rarely post on these forums but a few days ago to keep my S2 Stag long term (was going to sell it soon and get a new car). So today I went out and did a few bits and pieces that I should have done a while ago. Fixed up the tweeter covers (my tweeters didn't fit inside where the stock ones used to), Added an english Fusebox sticker and added a USB/12V charging station into the storage compartment near the 'Snow' button on the centre console. The USB thing actually turned out pretty good for 90 mins work! I also removed the centre console and headunit panels and scrubbed them thoroughly. So much crap gets in between the gaps. Over the next 6 months I am gonna sort out: Orbital Liquid LPG (dedicated if allowed), Exhaust, FMIC, Carputer that does everything, with Stag logo on the main screen , Fix the LEDs in the Climate control screen, Raise the Coilover height slightly, Rear camber arms, 350z Rims and Brakes, retrim the steering wheel, new front seats (my hair skims the roofline in the stock seats) and fix up damaged RH headlight and front indicators Pic of the USB thingy attached.

Howdy, I am going to be selling my S2 Stag soon. but would like to fix the few things wrong with it. I am after a pair of S2 indicators (in the front bumper.. I have Dayz bodykit, but fairly sure they are normal S2), a good steering wheel rim (centre piece on mine is fine..), the interior storage pocket next to the 'Snow' button (at the front of the centre console lid) and the rear Cupholder. Also, does anyone know where I can get a Dayz edition badge from? I tried Nissan with the part number listed in an old thread, but no success. Would prefer to pickup from someone in Perth, but getting it posted is cool too. Thanks

Yeah.. Super Sparks.. Yellow Jackets weren't available for the NEO when I was looking.

Front Bumper - $100 Full set of springs/struts - $100 Located in Perth, southern suburbs 0400198287 - Trent PM, SMS or Call

While inspecting my intake hoses for a different problem, I checked the turbo and it has heaps of forward-back play in it. Similar to this YT vid, maybe a bit less than this: I am not concerned with lack of power, but will it be safe to drive this on stock boost for a few months, until I can afford to get a hiflow? It spins smoothly by hand. Thanks

Problem possibly solved. Today I pulled off all of the intake hoses.. couldn't see any cracks or brittle sections. Replaced 2 small vacuum hoses that were starting to get old, but I doubt they were leaking, I untaped the coil pack harness and looked at the wiring.. looked all good. I then put my OLD COIL PACKS in (which were causing the ECU to give a coil error, but worked fine).... car is idling perfect after 20 mins running. I will drive it around today with the oil packs in, then swap the almost brand new coil packs in and see if the problem comes back. Won't be happy with the $500 coil packs already have problems after ~5000km.

My apologies if this has been done before, but I had to hunt around various threads to find what voltages each sensor needs to be, so I made up this list. This is from the R34 Workshop manual. All voltages are for the NEO RB25DET engine. Earlier engines may be the same, but need to be confirmed. If you haven't used a multimeter before, you can get a cheapy from Dick Smiths or similar for about $15. There are heaps of vids on YT showing how to use them. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer...tal+multimeter+ TPS - (With IGN on, engine off) 0.4-0.5V. 4.0-4.2V @ WOT ------- With engine on: 0.6-0.7V @ 2000rpm Oxygen Sensor - 'Fluctuates between 0.1-0.4V and 0.7-0.9V' Air Flow Meter (Mass Air Flow) - (IGN on, engine off) 0.2V -------With engine on: 1.1V @ idle. 1.6-1.7V @2000RPM Coolant Temperature Sensor - ~3.5V (and 3000 OHM) when cold, ~1.2V (and 300 OHM) when hot

Do you mean the Air Flow Meter in the airbox? Cleaned that and checked the voltages. All perfect according to the workshop manual. Put some Injector cleaner + 98 octane through it today and took it for a 20 min drive. It now stutters badly from 2-4k ish rpm, then all of a sudden comes good from 4 til it changes. Hopefully borrowing a Consult cable from Chuckie (and maybe try another AFM/TPS), so hopefully that sorts it out.

Fuel filter did not fix the problem. Going to connect it to CONSULT and see if there is anything weird going on.

Sigh, the saga continues. The TPS, when on WOT does momentarily register over 3v. However, the other figures are accurate >> 6k RPM was 1.2v..... 3k RPM was about 0.7v. Idle is 0.4v. 6k rpm at idle only requires slight throttle, so that is why it's only showing 1.2v. I think this is working properly. Also, if the 0.40v at idle is correct, it should idle properly if the TPS was the problem shouldn't it? I am gonna look up what readings the CTS is supposed to give and test that.. because when I was testing just then, the car was up to temperature, but revved did not drop. Stayed at 1500rpm. argh. EDIT: CTS is definitely working when hot.. measuring 300 OHMs, exactly what it is supposed to be. ARGH, Pages 47-52 on the R34 workshop manual here-- http://www.importworkshop.com/nissanskyline.html -- all of my sensors are registering perfectly. Time to grab a boost gauge I guess and see if vacuum is weird. Wouldn't a vacuum leak cause idle problems straight away though? Not just when warm?

What TPS will fit? It has 6 wires coming out of it, going into 2x 3-pin connectors. After some research, I need another auto one.. What about an auto rb30e?