revolt

No longer for sale. Decided we couldn't part with it.

2000 series 2 Stagea - Dayz edition. Features: Dual Sunroof Tiptronic w/ Steering wheel gear shift buttons AWD Neo RB25DET 18" Rims (poor condition - see pics) Tein Coilovers (see below) Aftermarket Cruise Control - cost $800 K+N Drop-in Air Filter Xenon headlights Full Dayz bodykit Alpine USB/Aux headunit - Good radio reception compared to the original headunit Speakers replaced with Jaycar 'Venom' splits in the front and drop in replacement speakers in the rear doors (can't remember what brand). 171,000km. Owned it since 114,000km. Serviced every 7500km with new oil filter and Castrol Edge 5w-30 Fully Synthetic. Runs perfect. No mechanical issues. Diff / Transmission / Transfer case oils/fluids were replaced about a year ago with the ($) recommended ones from this forum. Front camber kit, radius bushes, wheel alignment done ~2000kms ago. Tyres in good condition. Body is in almost perfect condition besides 2 pindents on the drivers side (were not there 2 weeks ago - probably hit by another car door at the shops ) and small stone chips in the front bumper. Comes with a perfect condition standard front bumper. Issues: - 2 pindents previously mentioned (Quote $100-$150 to remove) - Tein coilovers are tired. They work fine, but are squeaky. Probably worn bushes. Car comes with complete original suspension. - Top of steering wheel has the 'coating' coming off. The actual leather looks ok though. - RH headlight has the usual UV fading/slight cracking That's about it. Not a lot wrong with this car. Lots of small parts have been replaced over the past 3 years as soon as they became faulty (Oxygen sensor, Coil Packs). Overall the car is in very good condition for being 11 years old. I should also mention the car has never been raced/thrashed as it is used as a family daily driver. Located south of the river in Perth. Asking $14k.

Headunit is gone, Bumper and Springs still here. sarz - Don't want to post the bumper. Postage costs would be huge and there are no couriers nearby (and no way for me to pack it).

Hi, Got some stuff in my shed that I want to get rid of. Front bumper (no reinforcement.. just the plastic bit shown - looks to be in perfect condition) - $50 Stock Double DIN CD Headunit - $25 Full set of stock Springs/shocks - $50 Can post the headunit anywhere, but pickup only for the big stuff. WTB: Rear Cupholder

Hi everyone, I rarely post on these forums but a few days ago to keep my S2 Stag long term (was going to sell it soon and get a new car). So today I went out and did a few bits and pieces that I should have done a while ago. Fixed up the tweeter covers (my tweeters didn't fit inside where the stock ones used to), Added an english Fusebox sticker and added a USB/12V charging station into the storage compartment near the 'Snow' button on the centre console. The USB thing actually turned out pretty good for 90 mins work! I also removed the centre console and headunit panels and scrubbed them thoroughly. So much crap gets in between the gaps. Over the next 6 months I am gonna sort out: Orbital Liquid LPG (dedicated if allowed), Exhaust, FMIC, Carputer that does everything, with Stag logo on the main screen , Fix the LEDs in the Climate control screen, Raise the Coilover height slightly, Rear camber arms, 350z Rims and Brakes, retrim the steering wheel, new front seats (my hair skims the roofline in the stock seats) and fix up damaged RH headlight and front indicators Pic of the USB thingy attached.

Howdy, I am going to be selling my S2 Stag soon. but would like to fix the few things wrong with it. I am after a pair of S2 indicators (in the front bumper.. I have Dayz bodykit, but fairly sure they are normal S2), a good steering wheel rim (centre piece on mine is fine..), the interior storage pocket next to the 'Snow' button (at the front of the centre console lid) and the rear Cupholder. Also, does anyone know where I can get a Dayz edition badge from? I tried Nissan with the part number listed in an old thread, but no success. Would prefer to pickup from someone in Perth, but getting it posted is cool too. Thanks

Yeah.. Super Sparks.. Yellow Jackets weren't available for the NEO when I was looking.

Front Bumper - $100 Full set of springs/struts - $100 Located in Perth, southern suburbs 0400198287 - Trent PM, SMS or Call

While inspecting my intake hoses for a different problem, I checked the turbo and it has heaps of forward-back play in it. Similar to this YT vid, maybe a bit less than this: I am not concerned with lack of power, but will it be safe to drive this on stock boost for a few months, until I can afford to get a hiflow? It spins smoothly by hand. Thanks

Problem possibly solved. Today I pulled off all of the intake hoses.. couldn't see any cracks or brittle sections. Replaced 2 small vacuum hoses that were starting to get old, but I doubt they were leaking, I untaped the coil pack harness and looked at the wiring.. looked all good. I then put my OLD COIL PACKS in (which were causing the ECU to give a coil error, but worked fine).... car is idling perfect after 20 mins running. I will drive it around today with the oil packs in, then swap the almost brand new coil packs in and see if the problem comes back. Won't be happy with the $500 coil packs already have problems after ~5000km.

My apologies if this has been done before, but I had to hunt around various threads to find what voltages each sensor needs to be, so I made up this list. This is from the R34 Workshop manual. All voltages are for the NEO RB25DET engine. Earlier engines may be the same, but need to be confirmed. If you haven't used a multimeter before, you can get a cheapy from Dick Smiths or similar for about $15. There are heaps of vids on YT showing how to use them. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer...tal+multimeter+ TPS - (With IGN on, engine off) 0.4-0.5V. 4.0-4.2V @ WOT ------- With engine on: 0.6-0.7V @ 2000rpm Oxygen Sensor - 'Fluctuates between 0.1-0.4V and 0.7-0.9V' Air Flow Meter (Mass Air Flow) - (IGN on, engine off) 0.2V -------With engine on: 1.1V @ idle. 1.6-1.7V @2000RPM Coolant Temperature Sensor - ~3.5V (and 3000 OHM) when cold, ~1.2V (and 300 OHM) when hot

Do you mean the Air Flow Meter in the airbox? Cleaned that and checked the voltages. All perfect according to the workshop manual. Put some Injector cleaner + 98 octane through it today and took it for a 20 min drive. It now stutters badly from 2-4k ish rpm, then all of a sudden comes good from 4 til it changes. Hopefully borrowing a Consult cable from Chuckie (and maybe try another AFM/TPS), so hopefully that sorts it out.

Fuel filter did not fix the problem. Going to connect it to CONSULT and see if there is anything weird going on.

Sigh, the saga continues. The TPS, when on WOT does momentarily register over 3v. However, the other figures are accurate >> 6k RPM was 1.2v..... 3k RPM was about 0.7v. Idle is 0.4v. 6k rpm at idle only requires slight throttle, so that is why it's only showing 1.2v. I think this is working properly. Also, if the 0.40v at idle is correct, it should idle properly if the TPS was the problem shouldn't it? I am gonna look up what readings the CTS is supposed to give and test that.. because when I was testing just then, the car was up to temperature, but revved did not drop. Stayed at 1500rpm. argh. EDIT: CTS is definitely working when hot.. measuring 300 OHMs, exactly what it is supposed to be. ARGH, Pages 47-52 on the R34 workshop manual here-- http://www.importworkshop.com/nissanskyline.html -- all of my sensors are registering perfectly. Time to grab a boost gauge I guess and see if vacuum is weird. Wouldn't a vacuum leak cause idle problems straight away though? Not just when warm?

What TPS will fit? It has 6 wires coming out of it, going into 2x 3-pin connectors. After some research, I need another auto one.. What about an auto rb30e?

I had to take it out for a 10 min drive just then and something occured to me -- the aftermarket cruise control is not turning on now (was working 2 days ago). Do they connect in with the TPS? I will have a look tomorrow.

Ah, awesome! (well, sort of.. still have to buy one, but at least it might be solved). Will pull it off and inspect it. Thanks for your help everyone! I will try to visit the forums a bit more and help others.

Bah, double post. But with the engine off, it's 0.45 at idle and 3.99 at WOT

Retested the TPS. 6k RPM was 1.2v..... 3k RPM was about 0.7v. Idle is 0.4v

Yep, I noticed on the Driver's side in between the engine and stub axle (on one of the 4wd doo-dads) there is what looks like a vacuum hose that comes up to near the oil filter.. the other end is not connected to anything, but I can't see where it should go? Is this just a breather line or something? The other thing is there is a single pin sensor on the oil filter housing that is not connected. My guess is it's for an optional oil pressure sensor.. Unplugged the AFM while running and the car idles better. When I rev it with the AFM off, it revs smoothly up to the limp home 2500rpm limit, where it misfires like crazy. Is that 2500rpm misfire normal with no AFM? If so, my guess is my AFM is rooted since it's a lot smoother with the AFM off. EDIT: OH! Very important thing I just figured out. It only does it when it's warm. I always drive sedately til it's up to temp, so I didn't notice but today I decided to flog it and see what happens.. it was perfect for about 5-10 mins.

Yeah, that is another possibility, because it reads 0.22v with the ign ON, but not running.. others have said around 0.5v is normal?

Yeah, cleaned the AFM with Brake Cleaner. Will look into the O2 sensor. Not very old either though.

Didn't think of the filter. Will give that a shot. The current one has only done about 15,000km tho.

A few weeks ago my S2 Stag developed a very slight misfire at idle. Previous to this, it has always been super smooth (have to look at tacho to see it's running). The misfire gradually got worse and is now quite noticeable at idle and when accelerating from idle to about 2800rpm, it is a constant stutter/misfire. 0-100km/h takes about 12-13 seconds. Engine-wise, the car is stock besides the coil packs mentioned below and a drop-in replacement K+N filter. I have tried all of the following (after researching about 50 similar threads): - Replaced Coil packs with Super Sparks - Replaced Spark Plugs with BCP6ES @ 0.8mm and 1.1mm - Check base ignition timing. 15 deg @ 650rpm, using a pluglead directly into Cyl 1 and also checked with timing loop wire - Unplugged the coil packs one-by-one while engine is running and all are firing (revs dropped and idled even worse when they were D/C) - Cleaned AAC Valve and AFM - Unplugged/wiggled around all connectors - Checked ECU for codes (No errors) - Checked voltage drop from battery to all of the earth points on the engine. All are 0.00 or 0.01 - Sprayed Start ya Bastard around every intake and vacuum line. Revs did not change - Tested TPS. With Ignition ON, but car off, idle is 0.45v, WOT is 3.9v. With car running, idle is 0.41, WOT is 1.4v (Is this a possible cause?) - Tested AFM. With Ignition ON, but car off, reading is 0.22v. With car running, it is 1.14v What else could it be? Coolant Temperature Sensor? CAS? Injector problem? It does not have a boost gauge. If I get one, will I be able to tell if it has vacuum leaks by its reading at idle? The car uses Castrol Edge 5-30 fully synthetic, changed every 5000kms, the 02 sensor was changed 20,000kms ago. It has 145,000kms on the clock. Spent most of the past 3 days on it, as well as testing random things since it started showing symptoms. Thanks for any advice

Got one from KYP for $260!