wht510

G'day Stagea Owners. Spotted this: http://cgi.ebay.com....E:B:WNA:AU:1123 It's the non turbo version, but could be good for spare parts? Note: I'm not the seller, just thought I would throw this out there. Perhaps a track car with the engine transplanted???

Iain, Let me know if you have any of the centre console of the beige car handy. I still want to remove my 'out of colour' centre section where the stereo goes and replace it with something factory.

Easy job replacing the cabin filter? Did you buy a cabin filter from Ebay? Where's the Second fuse box????? I know of the one behind the battery, I know of the one down near the accelerator pedal. Where's the other?

Easy to drop the oil in the diffs? Me thinks a Tutorial is a good idea

I'm alright. I'd take the Datto. Stops better repeatedly than most modern cars

A photo of the meet A shop selling a weird service in healesville Needless to say, none of us stopped..

Spotted a white and Black M35 at Monash Car Park. Didn't see them at Doncaster though

Good cruise! Good to catch up with everyone. I lost you all when you pulled over before Maroondah dam. Had to go back anyway, so headed home. Saw C34 with plates 'Stagea' on the way home! Good to meet you all! Keen on the next cruise

More speculation on the failure mode of the exhaust wheel is needed me thinks. It could be the following (based on me reading the posts) 1. Higher boost level (go above a boost level and you increase the chance of failure)? 2. Certain kilometers traveled (so for example, hit 100K on the clock and your chances of chewing an exhaust wheel is high?) 2. Boost spike? (over speed of the turbo wheels?) Possible causes of failure are: a. increased turbine speed (not sure of the critical speed of the turbo, but perhaps it is linked to 14psi?) b. Increased heat on both the exhaust and intake side. c. Cyclic fatigue of the interface between the exhaust wheel and the shaft being different materials, the temperature expansion/contraction will cause internal stresses. Perhaps there is a limit? ____ Just got off the phone to Scotty... Carbon build up on the exhaust wheel bearing, chews out the bearing and bang. What do you all think?? (Holy thread revival batman BTW!)

Great work, and looks the goods!

I still would like to buy a set of Teins. The price was crazy last time I looked though. Also: Are you guys talking about crap brakes on the stag because you: 1. Have crap pads? 2. Do heaps of braking/accel during 'spirited' driving, and the brakes can't dissipate the heat soak so you get fade (could be fluid related though)? 3. Just want bling? I would really like to know! I've done a few bedding in stops to bed the pads properly into my machined rotors (stupid compliance workshop....), and it pulls up a treat now. ABS works too! I've also changed the fluid from DOT3 over to my ELF semi-racing fluid that I use in the Datto.

Just some quick notes on the fitment of the 'power duct' to my NM35. 1. It makes more of a turbo induction noise on boost which I like. Keeps everyone guessing 2. Following a truck with hay bales on the drive over to S.A. means your air filter gets straw in it 3. Easier to see how dirty the filter is! 4. Economy I would hazard a guess is slightly better. I'm getting 550 to a tank of around 60-65L driving in peak hour. Also, the Tanabe's coil overs are going well. Still wallowing a little (shock damper rate is lower than the springs require I would assume). Corners like it's on rails! Quite neutral with some understeer with light throttle. Anyone know if the Autech Axis model has aftermarket sway bars? Me thinks so.

HAHahahah.. It's always the way...

Damn. My compliance shop didn't even change the bloody oil. Stuff that came out was fairly black goddamit. Lucky for me I changed it /trans oil/oil filter/plugs/air filter/and drained the rad water, and filled it up with the real stuff.....

It's funny because I feel most of us drive Stagea's because we used to own skylines/race cars etc, and the wagon is an excuse to the missus that we are 'settling down'. Just don't tell the missus that we are modifying the hell out of the 'daily'.... Damn... Now I'm doing it... HIJACK!

Dust, we know what sway bars do, and we can all quote wikipedia when needed. 'Float' or 'bob' is also a function of damping rate. You want the car to be bordering on 'critically damped'. Semantics I know. The M35 stagea is underdamped from factory (well, the shocks do have to put up with a fat 1700kg!) Fitting adjustable shocks means you can 'tune' based on the spring rate you are running and tune out the 'float' or 'bob'. Roll is a function of spring rate and roll stiffness. (hence the sway bar) Coil overs are not over-rated for street use. In fact I would say that most people with adjustable coil overs love them mainly due to the fact you can adjust ride height 'for the look', adjust corner weights for balance, and adjust damping to suit the driving style and remove floating through bumps. Buy coil overs first, adjust them for neutrality (perhaps slight understeer or oversteer under power? I'm still learning about AWD handling). THEN use sway bars to counter act and tune to your desired 'feel'. Don't forget, it's not a track car. I am actually very impressed with my Stagea in roll. I have a feeling though I might have aftermarket sway bars. The shocks are pretty soft though (I'm running Tanabe's), which is good for me as my car is for cruising and long trips, where as the Datsun 1600 SR20DET is sprung quite hard with adjustable Koni shocks to suit. I've got double adjustables (Bump and rebound) on the rear of the 1600 to adjust for drag days, so I can soften it out to get a bit more dynamic weight transfer with the softer springs I would run. Track day you put in the harder springs in the frond and rear and adjust the shocks to suit so you reach the 'bordering on critically damped'.

Hi champ, I don't think the sway bars are going to fix the 'floating' you describe. They practically do nothing in a straight line. You need to change spring rates and shock rates before sway bars if you are upset with handling. Suggestion is to go for the BC's or some Tein's then the sway bars based on your 'feel' and how happy you are with the cars cornering ability. Just my 2 cents.

If I made a suggestion I would be hijacking the hijack. - DOH! Don't get me wrong, I love how you guys provide heaps of information. Just as a Stag Newb, I find it really hard to trawl through pages and pages to find what I am looking for. Although I do get some interesting secondary information!

Could be an Volkswagen R36. A number of people mistake my Stagea for a debadged R36.

Spotted a white C34 going east bound down FTgully road giving it a bit of a boot full (only to speed limit though). I was turning into Stephensons Rd. Anyone on here? Sounded nice.

....wonder if we could get them to fit....Pity single bolt is illegal on street use damn it! What size are the tyres? The profile is quite nice, are they semi's or slicks?

What size? Do tell!!!

They've got this amazing steel. Fairly cheap. it's called 4130... Chrome-Moly! Stronger than mild steel, and as light as aluminium. On a serious note: Interesting though. Wonder when it's going to be cheap enough for mainstream use?

Wing still for sale?