wht510

Floor pan mods are fairly straight forward, but tricky when you have to remove seats, carpet, sound deadener, looms, and then fit them all back... Gearbox support is fairly straight forward, as a hybrid can be made between the GTR/Stagea Custom Tailshaft required ($$$) Gearbox Adapter would be a PITA to make from scratch, but can be bought for $,$$$... You would have to use the GTR drive shaft to the stag diff (or get a custom one made) Would take a fair bit of time and dollars including the purchase of the box itself. Not to mention getting the ATTESSA clutch oil pump and all the other stuff working.

It's a wagon Scotty. Put some sandbags in the back! I'm keen too on the manual version. R34 GTR box to retain AWD?

Yes. The OEM design has factored in the clearance from the calliper to the wheel under "normal" operating conditions. So for example the following events occur all at the same time: 1. Wheel bearing is lose but still drivable and still to specifications. 2. Flex of the calliper is at maximum due to temperature and the driver pushing hard on the brake pedal under an emergency stop. 3. Cornering force as the driver does a maximum "G" corner acting on the stub axle/wheel/bearings/strut or knuckle etc. 4. Hitting a small pot hole while doing all of the above. So I would find other cars with factory clearance of your particular car and replicate that. Otherwise you need to consult an VASS approve Engineer and ask them. I can't remember the minimum clearance, but from memory it's approx 5mm from the face of the caliper, and the edge is similar. If the wheel moves more than that, then you are stuffed anyway and the clearance from the calliper to wheel isn't going to make any difference!

Gents, All materials have a fatigue limit/strength. Fatigue strength basically comes down to the force on the component and the amount of times that force is applied. This should not be confused with Yield strength, which is the maximum force the material can go to before it 'yields', or doesn't go back to where it was. Scott suggested the length has something to do with it and he's right. Length amplifies the force at the stress concentration. Putting a turbo on the end of a manifold that is vibrating is where you have your load force and your cycles respectively. The vibration may be caused by harmonics of the system or simply the engine going through the rev range. Typically the system will break at the highest stressed area (or where the force acts the most). Usually this is at the weld (stress concentration) or at maximum deflection of the system. So to provide an answer: You are all right. The cracks can appear in a variety of places, but typically they will crack either close to the weld (right next to it) or due to the internal stresses of the weld itself, where the midpoint of the weld is. I have also seen failures on tubing due to a variety of reasons...

Very Nice Scott. Quality once again.

Might have to when I have the car up on stands getting a Scotty Dump fitted....

This is interesting information. Might have to try and fit an Axis wheel to a 350Z track...

Thanks for the feedback Gents! The Axis wheels, based on my quick look are +30mm, so I would think I would have to change them. Don't want to do that at the moment...I'm kind of fond of them. I do see an M35 with the number plate SKIPOW near my area which runs 19" TE-37's and brembo's. Looks awesome!

I know the Brembo options are bolt on which is ace: 1. What size master cylinder do the M35's currently run and what size do the Track 350Z run? 2. Will they fit behind my Axis wheels? I really don't want to buy new wheels, as I am kind of fond of the Axis wheels.

Any updates Gents?

Probably not the best choice of words... Good luck with the sale

Yep, you're right. Forgot the spider was inside the clutch pack!

Mech LSD though?

I would love to know aswell. Does it only happen when the diff got warm, or only on particular corners?

Yes, you are right. Again refer back to previous post..,. Little sleep and foreign country makes it difficult to think! If you were going to modify the castor rod, then no, if you were going to modify the bracket it bolts on to, then you may be OK. Depends on your mad fabrication skillz and whether or not you actually do a good job. Again, what R31Nismo administrator dude suggested is correct, speak to your engineer before you do it and get his/her/it's approval, and you should be laughing. RWC, if you may it look factory, they wont even notice...

Short answer was also based on little sleep in a foreign country. The difficulty is the component you want to modify is considered a suspension component. Suspension components generally are not allowed to be modified at all. This includes welding/bending/cutting/ etc. The reason for this is the impact/shock loading on the component will require analysis and the OEM have already completed this and strengthened this area up if it was prone to failure. By you cutting and welding in a new section, you are changing the specification and strength and in turn affecting the performance under load. This will make it prone to failure. VASS Engineers will ask for receipts if you fit aftermarket components, so they can shift blame to the component manufacturer when you kill yourself and your parents are trying to sue the engineer. That's kind of loosely what they do, but they also have to calculate the component strength if it is modified. This takes time and requires many calculations/analysis and therefore you pay for this with an engineers certificate...

Simple answer: NO!

I needed to push harder to go past the tyre squeel!! Extremely frustrating ignoring that usual feedback of the tyres saying: "the car is at it's limit, don't go any faster!"

Hi PomNz. Thanks for the download. It does have all the information! Just a shame it's all in Japanese and you have to translate through google..

Has anyone got a copy of this and recommend the translation?

PM sent...

Aaron. Any chance of getting a copy of the wiring diagram for the Atessa system?

If running an aftermarket ECU (such as Link/Haltech/Motec etc.), will they be able to interface with the V35/350Z CANBUS system, or do you need to run the factory ECU to control that with a piggyback? Just trying to find out how easy it is to run the R34 GTR box behind a VQ motor for manual action (and AWD). Both V35 and M35... I know you have a fair bit of experience with this Scotty, so just picking your brain (and anyone else who has done something similar....)

Anyone know about the 350Z and the V35? Supposedly the M35 is not OBD2.