slippylotion

Isn't less vacuum closer to 0 as you move into positive pressure and more vacuum a larger number such as 30 for example? The one thing I hate with the stock ratio is the slightest throttle touch and its positive pressure even if you dont need. I also hate it when cruIsing at 60 and any speed above, it's very sluggish until the converter unlocks. I usually only want to squeeze the throttle a tad for a slight rise and it does nothing until it unlocks. Do the 3.5 gears help with this at all?

Where and from what are you guys getting the 3.5 diffs? What's the standard ratio we have? Do you notice any gain in economy as you would be sitting at higher revs and more vacuum compared to standard. Cheers

I supplied mine for $50.30 delivered to me for 2 sets, plus $12 delivered express from me to interstate guys. So I take it the cambers arms from that guy are a no go?

This axis has been on fleabay a few times now. Last time it was towards the end of last year and it did sell. I assume the buyer didn't end up paying as its the same guy listing it for sale again. I can't remember what it did sell for though. This seller must buy a lot of repairable write off cars from auction and try to on sell on fleabay for a quick profit. He has a heap of cars for auction and all apparently needing stuff all work.

So you both are running as quick as what most commy ssv will run, not based on magazine times as owner drivers never get them that quick. Well done boys ?

Time for a new turbo ?

Got to be happy with that but wouldn't you love to dip into the 13's!

Yeah I thought they are similar to the vq35

No the 8.5 will sit out another 6mm and in another 6mm. To fill the guards I would go either a 9+30 or 8.5+22 or if you want them Out the guard a little go for 9+25. These sizes keep good clearance inside to the suspension arm. PM me your number and I'll send you a pic of how mine sit, can't upload on here as I accidentally killed my MacBook yesterday ?

Yeah, 8.5+22 sits 8mm further out than a 8.5+30 and 2mm further out than a 9+30

Not sure if you remember how mine sit but they are 9+30 and I wouldn't go any lesser than that. I think a 8.5+30 will sit in the guard too far.

If you have time just remove the castor rods yourself then drop them off to get the bushes removed/installed and then refit the arms yourself. It should cost less than $100 to get the bushes done.

The old bush would need to be pressed out. I'm not sure if the new bush can be pushed in by hand, I could easily do this with the super pro front upper arm bushes, pressed out with a press and pushed back in by hand. Otherwise you would need to press them in.

That arm won't fit the M35, it will only fit the V35. M35 has the mount in the arm for the shocker to bolt to it where as the V35 shocker does not bolt to that arm. The cradle in your pic is an M35 cradle as you can see the bolt still in the factory arm where the shocker bolts to it. Notice that a/market arm has no place for the shocker mount bolt. This is the factory M35 rear camber arm modified in Japan by a company called Nagisa Auto and cost 85,000 yen in Japan, so well over $1000AUD via Streeter or Import Monster.

It's made slightly different but the same principle with more offset to give more adjustment.

You need to elongate the slot as these bolts have more offset than the Nissan bolt.

For me it's getting a correct alignment for tyre wear on the street. I myself don't see these cars as a track car being so heavy and auto, so I wouldn't go that way, others might like to track them though. I just found that running my ride height at 350mm F & R I had basically maxed out the rear adjustment and was still running 2deg neg camber. These SPC bolts gave the extra I needed with a bit left over.

Probably a one shot deal but I could do another if enough people want them. Since I'm sorted with a set I would probably charge an extra few bucks per 2 sets to cover my time organizing it. It would roughly be about $60 delivered to Adelaide for 2 sets in a GB.

They are. The castor rod is at the front of the car. The arm in the rear that seats the spring is the toe arm and the lower arm that the shocker mounts to is the camber arm. These both have offset bolts for adjustment but it's limited. The other arms are the upper control arm and traction rod.

There is offset bolts from factory but the SPC bolts I did the GB on give another 1-1.5 deg adjustment and cheaper than a/market arms. A/market arms usually also add rose joint ends to them adding a bit of NVH. The only rear M35 a/market camber arms I have found are a Jap unit the cut and shut the factory arm to give adjustment with a rose joint end, these from memory are around $600-700 delivered!!! I haven't found another a/market camber arm as yet as the M35 camber arm is different to the V35. All other rear arms seem to interchange with the V35, just not the camber arm.

Yep fits the single DIN factory deck. Comes with instructions although its very easy to install. All you need to do is name the playlists on your iPhone with Nissan in them. I run: Nissan 1 - artists Nissan 2 - albums Nissan 3 - all songs Nissan 4 - blank Nissan 5 - blank Nissan 6 - blank You can set them how you like but you need to name them 1-6 with Nissan. Nissan 5 allow direct iPhone control rather than control from the deck. If in 1-3 playlists you can jump song/albums/artist via the 1-6 buttons on the head unit. Overall its a great unit to connect your iPhone/ipod.

This is the M35 castor rod. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/itemdetails/28594 You would use the bush that Craig linked that is offset to gain more castor.

But you can't adjust castor via the control arm be them upper or lower, only the castor rod does that.

I ordered mine here. Mine was a tad cheaper as the dollar was higher at the time http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USA-SPEC-PA15-NIS-CAR-STEREO-NISSAN-INFINITI-IPOD-AUDIO-ADAPTOR-NEW-/400268286077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d31d9587d#ht_3202wt_1378

Nice! He should do a small write up on how to tackle it. I was hoping this would be do able when it comes time to do mine.