slippylotion

Curb weight for a c34 is 1650kg not 1850+kg

28k is an awesome agreed value for an Axis. My 250tRS aero was agreed for 21k which was really good but just got the renewal and it's now 18.5k which I'm still happy with.

What insured value?

It could be me Yeah I noticed the gasket starting to leak a tiny bit so thought Id get straight onto it. The smell I get is exhaust fumes not burning oil. Ill check tomorrow that I put it the correct way up, The arrow should point up yeah?

Changed cabin filter and ordered pass side cam cover gasket. I bought a repco carbon activated replacement filter for $25. I bought the carbon style cabin filter and still get a lot of fume smells in the car from other cars, do you guys get the same?

Also the 2871 has thee trim options, 48, 52 and 56. On my SR I've had both the 48 and 56. I noticed no difference in boost response but did notice the 56 had more power up high. On my SR it was making 18psi by 3800rpm with .64 exh so we could assume the vq25 would deliver 18psi around 3000-3200? Check with brad what his response is like as he uses a 2871 on his M35 but I don't know what trim version. I'd assume 52 trim as this is the most common version being a hks gtrs spec. If your after closer to factory response I'd go the 2860 wheel, I will when mine fails but hopefully a while away still.

. Yes but most of the jap kits are 50mm gates or there abouts, they dont use the smaller compact gates like the Tial mvs so they had to mount them further away from the collector.

You don't need to remove the upright li k as you did. Just remove the hub/bearing separate from the upright link and take that in to get the bearing pressed out/in. Also I don't bother with a ball joint puller. Just leave the nut on a couple turns and use a rubber mallet and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint and out she pops. Normally only takes one whack. Just a heads up for guys doing it then selves and they don't have a ball joint puller.

I gave a freshen up a little while ago but still factory internals. I change the oil every 5k with out fail and sometimes more often depending on what Ive used the car for. Yeah cam caps was the original colour but it was still a lot cleaner than most SR's

My TDO6SL2-20G T3 8cm external gate is getting closer to running. Just fitted the Bosch 1000cc injectors. Still to fit the injector loom plugs, Turbosmart FPR and lines then off to get the pipe work done, then tune.

Hang on your mate take the pressure source from the plenum side of the throttle body? Should only see pressure to the gate not vacuum as well.

Na he said he fitted his mates gate to his manifold and still the same problem.

No I haven't used one of your manifolds and not to be rude but looking at them I never would regardless of the price. The things I see wrong with them is design, flange thickness and welding standard and as a consumer that's what I look for but that's just my opinion. I'd guess that his boost problems would be related to the length on the pipe and location. Have a look how 6 Boost and Full Race, to name just two that do it like this, locate their wastgates, it's done for a reason.

There's your problem then.

I contacted Tial about using either the 38 or 44 gate for my SR running 18-20psi on a tdo6sl2-20g T3 and they said the 38 was perfect but it needs priority on the manifold. I assume your rb20 would be nearly the same requirements. Bang a pic up of the wastegate location on te manifold. I bet it also has a length of pipe moving the gate too far away from the manifold rather than keeping it short.

I can't believe people rave on about these just because they are cheap. Everyone rubbishes the china stainless manifolds for bad welds,design,cracking and warped flanges and these look to be not too different accept they are made from steam pipe so people think that automatically makes it a quality piece of gear. Going from your manifold who is to say these won't crack either! With the amount most of spend on our cars, do it right the first time and get a quality part that does its job correctly without having to fix it yourself to make it usable.

Yep I would say bad wastegate positioning but you get what you pay for. So for you having now spent around $500 you could have spent around another $400 and saved the hassles with a better quality manifold. I know it nearly the original price agin but atleast it will work and last!

Thanks for the help guys..... It's sorted.

Where are you getting that info as nothing is stated on the turbosmart website?

The Turbosmart fpr800 can be had for under $200 with a free pressure gauge, I bought one for SR set up.

SGIC for my M35 but Just Cars for the 180SX.

Fair enough, I wasn't having a go at you, just surprised it wasnt said long ago. And I agree on all points. I always browse SAU on my phone and it doesn't show the report button.

Can't believe it took this long for a mod to step in.

You might want to add that these will only fit 4WD models and not RWD C34's.

If you have pulled down that far already, you should just strip it and get the crank linished and fit new bearings, get the bores honed and fit new set of rings. Factor in a gasket kit decking the block and get the head skimmed and checked over. Shouldn't cost you a heap if you and your mate can put it back together. Atleast this way she has been checked out correctly and freshened up for many years more use.