slippylotion

What shift kits are you guys using? Im only after something like a stage 1

Has anyone had a shift to kit fitted to an NM35? I rang MV Automatics to get one done when they service the trans and told me that there is no good shift kit available for them. The kit would cost around $700 fitted and only give around 5% increase in performance so he suggested not to do it.

Well the R34 GTT brakes I had lined up turned out to be R33 GTST. Still an upgrade compared to stock and at the right price. R33 GTST 296 x 30mm with 4 piston calliper V's M35 296 x 24mm with single piston calliper. Today I got some mounting bolt sleeves to fit them up. I can organise another set or two if anyone else is interested in some R33 GTST front callipers and discs with bolt sleeves for $300 plus post for people not in Adelaide.

Yeah normally I go buy something with out her knowing, get it home and un pack it and set it up, then it's too late to return. I'm lucky to be getting away with a set of Tanabe coilovers, she's not happy about that. I told her the stock shocks are shagged.

A pic of the dump is in this thread on first page. It's 3" dump and front but ha e to keep the stock cat back. The wife won't let me fit a cat back to it, it has to stay quiet. I'm just trying to do as many mods as I can (without her knowing) to improve low and mid torque as im not aloud to modify anything else. It's a sad life, lol

Once he has fitted the compliance dump/front with cats and the car has gone for it's ID inspection we are then fitting the s/steel dump (no cat) and s/steel front pipe (200cpsi cat) to the car. Hopefully it will go for ID inspection by the end of this week.

Having seen what gets replaced I know what he does. It is a dump and front in one with new cats in it. Not just replacing the front pipe, both get replaced for compliance. This must be done for compliance. If the workshops don't and they get a surprise audit on the car (it happens Ive been at his workshop when the inspector was there) there will be trouble. Ill get a pic of the set up today while Im there.

Well considering he has to change the dump and front pipes with Australian complied cats for the compliance process, I think it is. Not sure is the workshops actually do this in other states as they should be!

What size are the tyres?

He has complied many M35 stagea's so all is good on that front.. I might give the good old G-Tech test before and after fitting it out of interest.

Ive seen mild flangse with stainless pipe many times and never an isue. I think most bellmouth dumps will look similar, so not really a copy of yours. My mate at the compliance shop is helping to fit it as he does it fairly regularly and knows the tricks.

Have you decided on wheels yet? A mate has a set of Nismo lowered springs for an M35 if your interested, not sure how much he after for them at this stage.

Hi guys I now have my dump pipe from Rex Kelway. Here is a bit of info as to how and why its made. If your interested in buying one let me know and Ill hand on his details. I can't wait to get the car from compliance to fit the sucker! He will also be making me a S/Steel front pipe with 200 cpsi metal cat and flex pipe. As soon as its done Ill also post pics and prices. Cost is $380. "Stainless steel tube resists corrosion, however in a high-temp cycled environment in has a tendency to crack. Being a hard material with high thermal expansion rates eventually it will 'pull' itself at stressed areas. The tube is flared via splitting instead of heating and stretching. This maintains its natural strength and material structure instead of creating thin and weak spots. Mild steel flanges are far less prone to warping than stainless. The ductility of mild steel reduces the likelyhood of cracking at the joints. Mild steel lambda boss is not prone to galling as stainless steel threads are. The dump pipe is also reinforced at the flanges and middle seam. It also retains the factory support bracket, all to yield the longest possible service lifespan. It doesn't have surfaced welds and is not polished, there is nothing to hide. It looks the way it looks because that's what it is, purely functional. You should be able to see how and why something is built the way it is and the workmanship that's gone into it Why Bellmouth Vs Seperated... Any gas has a tendency to flow in a spiralling motion through a round tube. In terms of distance covered and gas speed this is quite slow. The basic idea of the bellmouth dump pipe is to have an immediate expansion post turbine and immediate mixing of wasted exhaust that breaks up the swirling motion and funnels the exhaust gas away from the turbo with minimal spiralling. The gentle tapering shape serves to accelerate gas down and away from the turbine outlet faster ultimately creating better flow rates and less heat/stress on the turbine wheel"

So they would be about 20mm outside the front guards unless you have a lot of neg camber to tuck them under a bit. Tyre killer! Lol

Yeah it took me a while to choose the set we really liked. They where shipped yesterday so now begins weeks of restless nights dreaming about fitting them to the Stag, lol.

Ended up going through Streeter.

I went with Work XSA in a silver face with polished lip in 18x9+30. They are a 2 piece rim with just over 70mm dish in my sizes. They can be ordered in any size and offset you want as they make them to order. But be prepared to wait. Mine will be shipped tomorrow and here in 6-9 weeks plus I waited 6 weeks for them to be made. Price is pretty good for a quality Japanese wheel, around $2200 delivered (on special when I ordered them) from memory, no tyres of course. I'm a bit anal about only using Japanese wheels on Japanese cars, they just seem to fit and finish the cars off better IMO.

I know how you feel. I was originally after Work XT7 but couldn't get them in the size needed while still have the concave face. The other face looks ordinary.

I went with a 9+30. It's sits out at the front about 3mm and flush at rear. It also gives plenty of clearance on te inside at the front. Just work out what size you can get that sits the same as a 9+30 and all will be sweet.

+38 sticks out 4-5mm so a +25 will stick out about 17-18mm.

+38 is what you want. But only has about 3mm clearance on the front between rim and suspension upright link.

Is the alloy rear subframe something to worry about when fitting towbars? I assume this would limit the weight it can tow.

I'll see how I go. The stagea won't be ready so might have to pull the cover off the 180sx and take it for a spin to meet up for a look.

Where are you guys getting the from strut braces and prices?

9+30 sticks out about 3-4mm at the front and rear is flush. I have pics but can't upload using the phone.