slippylotion

Ideal sizes are 9+30 or 9.5+35 And I think it was 8.5+22 in the diameter your happy with. I found that the 9.5+30 only leaves about 3mm between rim and suspension link arm. I chose 9+30 as it sits the same in relation to the guard lip but has more room inside to the suspension arms.

I'm all for yard yard mechanics, hell, I've been building my own engines and modifying my cars in the back yard for 20 yrs. That's just one mod I wouldn't touch. No offense, just my thoughts.

Ah well if its working for you thats good, I wouldnt even contemplate doing that to my cars. The best form of boost control is said to be mechanical but only by using the correct pre set adjustable actuator or external waste gate with correct spring. If using an EBC they say to have a mechanical setting of minimum 50% of the max boost set.

He writes all majority of the tech articles in a heap of car magazines. Zoom and high performance import magazine are two that instantly come to mind. If your modifying the factory actuator like that, I would spend the $140ish and just buy a new adjustable 12 psi actuator and increase the preload from there. Much safer than whacking on a spring.

If your talking about putting a spring on the actuator to the the wastegate flap arm, that is one of the first big no no,s to do with a turbo for boost control. There have been many an article written by Martin donen about this back yard fix.

Thanks for that. The car hasn't been complied yet but I'll check that switch tomorrow. I did find today that the drivers side fog light wasn't plugged in. I also had a problem with none of the lhs indicators working at all. After a few hours checking everything I found that someone in Japan had cut a wire behind the drivers kick panel, I joined it back up and now all indicators are working. Very weird as to why they cut it.

Correct. Just get a simple nipple fitted to the hot pipe.

You should keep the lines as short as possible, this helps avoid spikes. I would choose somewhere closer than just before the throttle body. Nearer to the turbo is better.

Hope to have pics saturday at this stage.

I would imagine it's like another turbo set up. A feed from the pressure side of the turbo(before throttle body) into the bleed valve and out side of the bleed valve into the wastegate actuator.

Can someone tell me how to turn on the driving lights that are in the aero front bar on the nm35. I've tried both sets of switches on the light stalk and the 2 way toggle under the dash on the right hand side but nothing turns them on. Cheers

Ok, I just had my old boss translate the Nissan user manual regarding oils, he is Japanese. It said the front and rear diff uses 80w-90 and made NO mention of LSD or non LSD. If its a clutch type LSD as some are thinking the 80w-90 will be fine, this is what we used in our 2 way clutch LSD's, so we cant see it being a problem.

Ok. It doesnt have HICAS so Ill asume its not LSD. So are the oil weights listed above correct? Seeing as the rear diff is not LSD I will use the same 75w-90 oil weight as the front diff. Ill also use matic d for the power steering and ATESSA. Thanks

Hey Can someone check my VIN please NM35-306668 Need to know if it has a rear LSD diff or not Thanks

Will do, cheers

Is anyone able to run my VIN in fast for me? NM35 - 306668 Thanks

Thanks Ryan. Does your car have an LSD and HICAS? So if its a 250t rs four it definitely wont have an LSD? Cheers

Hey I finally seen my NM35 today at my mates compliance shop. Very happy with it. Im going to start servicing it tomorrow and Im trying to sort out what oils it needs. Ive been searching through all the threads on here to check what weight oils I need but its very unclear and messy in the threads. I think the list below is correct, can someone let me know what weights are? Dont need brands, thanks. Engine: 5w-40 Oil filter: NIssan Front diff: 75w-90 GL4? Rear diff: 80w-90 GL5? for LSD. Also not sure if it has LSD or not, I assume the weight will differ between the two? If so what are the correct weights for either LSD or NON LSD? Transfer case: Matic J Trans: Matic J Attesa: ? Brakes: DOT 4 Coolant: Nissan Also I rang Nissan today for a price on the passenger cam cover seal, its ~$30 and 3 weeks from Japan. Anyone know who might have them in stock now? Thought I would just do the gasket at the same time as the spark plugs to save doing it later down the track if needed. If there is anything else I have missed please let me know. Cheers guys

Yeah I know. I may be able to get another set or two at the same price if anyone is interested.

Just picked up a set of R34 GTT front brakes for $350 with good discs. Very happy.

WTB: R34 GTT front calipers and discs.

More competition = better prices for us! And I love the quality of Rex's work

Can be done if that's what you want.

Will do. Cheers

He can also get them coated at an extra cost if wanted. Hopefully pics up before the end of the week. Here is a ling to some of his handy work. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=489564