slippylotion

I use a Long Tru Cool trans cooler as it has a built in bypass at the top of the cooler for cold fluid then as the fluid warms up it's directed through the cooler core to cool.

I can't believe that no one has bought these yet.

Hey Ryan did you wrap your roof this weekend? Our daily is a little 1998 excel the missus bought new for 12k on road. Still going mechanically strong at 210,000km with only a clutch master, alternator and map sensor being replaced. Still runs the original clutch, brake pads and rotors that that have never needed to be machined. Pads even have 6mm thickness left. I agree not the best cars around but this one has certainly been great value with only the paint letting it down now that it's fading.

You can see the top mount points on the reo with the circle in the bracket. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/itemdetails/34810

From memory the reo has two mounting points for the intercooler.

How about M35 eyelids?

[email protected] Good luck.

I remember in 2006 I went in sept to a d1 drift ever at Suzuka circuit and it was 40deg. I seen about 6 people faint and then in the arvo a huge storm hit near flooding out the track. I usually go in winter as I rather like the 5deg daytime max and -16 day temp on the ski fields in Nagoya.

Yeah, istu means when and desuka is the ? marker. September would have just started to warm up a little. How long did you go? I'm over due as I haven't been back for 2 yrs now ?

Itsu desuka

Nihon?

Might want to list a price mate.

Madcat it all depends on what fault code your getting but if it's switching the pump off then it will promote clutch pack wear in the transfer case as it won't have enough load on the clutches. Like most things the quicker you get onto the problem the less wear/damage it will do.

No that's only the ECU fault codes. You need either an auto electrician or Nissan to scan it. Just someone that has a good scan tool to acces the 4wd section.

Gearbox oil as you said isn't related. You really need to see what codes it's throwing up. Even if it runs just rwd it still ends up wearing the clutch pack in the transfer case over time and you'll end up with a chatter and or vibration from it. With the attesa ets we have they can't be left in rwd mode permanately without transfer case damage. I've only found all this out while researching my attesa problem as I was going to leave it permanately rwd.

Thats cheap. Theres one on Yahoo at 25000 yen so far then postage and fees it will be around $400-500. I know $1900 seems like a lot but I don't want to have another problem with it again while I have the car. I suppose its similar to replacing a turbo with a cheap stock unit, bound to go at anytime so might as well just go a new one. I also just double checked the oil I bled out of it last week while flushing some through and found all the little metal fillings in it. Just a bummer all 3 parts of my pump assembly died

Cool. Is that from a chain parts store at retail or a trade only supplier?

How much was the 20ltr drum? Im due for an oil change.

Yeah I agree its a lot of coin but it seems the cheapest way to fix it correctly and completely. I though of a second hand unit but they sell for $700-900 so if it dies in a year or two its really half the cost of the fully rebuilt assembly wasted seeing as a new unit should last another 10 years or so. Id probably guess that the other guys getting the pressure switch fault code or 4WD randomly coming on are probably in the same boat. I asked why my torque gauge would still read if the pumps shagged and he said its a theoretical reading via the G sensor not the actual pump pressure. While the gauge is showing front drive it may well not be actually getting it.

I wouldn't say its expensive seeing as the accumulator is around $350 trade price alone and about $200 for a pressure switch that you can't actually buy from Nissan then the cost of a new pump that again you can't buy separate from Nissan and I need the complete assembly. Nissan only sell the complete pump assembly for $5k trade. New pump assembly in Japan is around 200,000yen from Nissan. These are rebuilt in Japan but with Australian warranty from Hills Motorsport. Im not keen to take the chance on a s/hand pump as it could go a week later. Atleast with this I have a warranty and shouldn't have any further problems for the 5 ish years Ill keep the car.

Well I got a call back toady after the pump assembly was tested and it's f@cked. The pressure switch and accumulator are shagged and the motor itself is chewed out with the impeller chewing on the inner casing all due to the pressure switch sticking on. So I'm getting a change over reconditioned assembly ex Japan for $1920 to my door from Hills Motorsport. The new pump is the late updated model with a better pump design and Pre filters fitted. Only catch is its a 30 day wait from Japan then for Hills to bech check and set it up then post to me, I'm expecting to wait about 6 weeks until I can refit it. Still could have been worse as its the last ready unit on the shelf.

Keen to see this Ryan. What colour you going?

I wouldn't get a s/hand unit as the seals could go at any time and if its been off the car without fluid in it still they could have dried out a bit. I would probably get a price from Nissan for a new unit or rebuild kit. At worst it 2 weeks ex Japan for it. Maybe a 350z unit fits?

Yep. I finally got a response today from him about buying some fittings. He said he automatically had it set to throw any emails from me to rubbish and block me from eBay after complaining about a wrong part sent. great customer service skills.

All good. Yeah I'd take them out until you can get it tuned. What size did you put in?