slippylotion

Yeah gave it a bleed yesterday by myself, no difference. I flushed a good 2 raguletto sauce jars amount out of it. Id assume that would be enough to get out any air that might have been in there. Last night I went to Ryan's and swapped relays again no difference. when Ryan started his car you could hear the pump start and pressurize the system, mine was doing that a week ago but now I only get 1 or 2 chirps from it. Just weird how the attessa still work fine if the light doesn't come on even though you still only hear a chirp from the pump. I'm off to Nissan this morning to find what/where and how much the pressure sensor switch is.

You don't need anyone on the switch either. Did mine yesterday, one man job.

Hey guys Need some help on my M35 Stagea, the Attessa E-TS is throwing up a code for the "pressure sensor switch" can someone tell me what it is and where its located and a pic of it? Is there some way to test it to make sure it is faulty? Can it be replaced by itself or is it part of the accumulator or pump. Thanks for any help guys.

Yeah I find if I start the car with my foot on the brake it's a lot less likely to throw up the 4WD light. I don't stall it up though. I thought that would increase the chance of a fault code in the ABS system combined with the fact that relay is for ABS but no codes came up. I'm determined to sort it out as I hate having sh!t line this going on with my cars. Just hope it doesn't cost an arm and leg!

But is that ok long term or shag the transfer case?

The auto sparky said the code was for pressure switch, he didn't know what or where it is though. I'm going to Ryan's tonight to swap relays between our cars to try and 100% eliminate that. It seems know one has actualy said where this pressure switch is and what it looks like or if it can be bought separate. I see plenty of mention about the pressure switch but no other info. Hopefully when I sort this I can add some extra info for guys that end up with the same problem. If only the m35 turbo came in rwd like my old c34. I never liked the attesa due to the problems and costs involved when something goes wrong.

I did notice the gear indicator and odo lights in the dash cluster dim if I select syncro or snow and the pump pulses/chirps.

Checked the connections at the pump. Look all good. The plug with 2 wires only has 4.7 volts to it with car off and running, would that be right? When I first start the car I can hear the pump give a quick .5 sec pulse then a few seconds later another .5 sec pulse and then the 4WD comes on.

Hey guys Ive had the 4WD light coming on over the last week or so but intermittently. If the light doesn't come on everything works as per normal but when the light does come on it won't engage the 4WD at all although the car still drives as normal. Ive checked the fluid and gave it a bleed but no difference. I also tried a different relay thats located under the air box and made no difference within the quick 5min test. I also found out via Nissan this morning that that relay is not the attesa but the ABS relay and is available for $99.45 retail ex Japan. The strange part is though that the part number listed under NM35 is different to the number on my relay/ my relay part number doesn't exist according to Nissan. I had an it scanned and it comes up with code "C1208 pressure switch" Does anyone know what the pressure switch is and exactly where its located? Im leaning towards an electrical fault due to the fact that when the lights not on the attesa will engage the front drive as normal on heavy accel. It doesn't cycle and click the relay like Ive read some guys have a problem with if the accumulator is shagged. I have noticed though that I used to hear the pump give a cycle at times when Ive pulled up at traffic lights to pressurise the system but it no longer does this. Appreciate any help with this pressure switch problem guys. Cheers

98 will never be a thing of the past, at least not in our lifetime. Oil companies make too much money to let something like E85 have more market share than a non ethanol blended fuel.

He is a mate and does quality work so I like to recommend him as a lot of other guys do for their favourite places. I did have his low mount mani before I changed to high mount. He also makes rollcages, suspension arms and braces and a heap more. Pretty much fabricates anything you want. He is cheaper than 6 Boost and the like. I think 6 Boost SR manifold is about $990 where as Kelway is about $690. $895 for an RB manifold.

If your after sub 1k it's either the cheap spec eBay Kiwi steam pipe jobbie or a quality made in adelaide Kelway steam pipe made to order. Pics of my SR Kelway manifold are a few pages back.

Aren't they just high flow jobbies also?

Big cams for that size turbo. I'm using HKS step 2 264 in/out 12/11.5mm lift.

They are high flows. They come from FiveO. They use a stock size I jector and flow then out to 1200cc. You can buy them a lot cheaper on US EBay but I still wouldn't use them. Fuel set up is something you don't want to skimp on!

Yeah if he has BC cams he will need gears. Ive heard BC cams can be as far as 14deg out on the 0 timing marks.

A mate tuned a 20g on an SR couple weeks ago on E20 or 30 home mix and made 295rwkw on 18.4psi so with a result like that I'd deffinately go for the reaponse of the 20g.

Keep us updated with the results.

Just for my curiosity, the cracked sub frames, whose cracked and in exactly what circumstance?

Looks good Ryan but don't envy you keeping them clean...lol

Yeah your probably right, just a bit annoyed with the service, Cheap prices shouldn't mean sh!t service, I bet he's still making a reasonable margin. Its a pain I can't buy the fittings from him on ebay as to buy them in aeroflow or speed flow versions is about double the price and Im working to tight budget atm.

Just on that 44mm ext gate, you can use a 38mm gate. Before I purchased my Tial 38mm I contacted Tial to see if I should use the 38 or 44 and they said for the TD06SL2-20G turbo the 38mm was ideal. Added bonuses with that is that the 38mm is cheaper and smaller so little bit easier to mount.

So today I went to order some water line fittings for my tdo6sl2-20g from Kando via Ebay today to find out he has blocked me! When I bought the turbo he sent the wrong oil line in the kit and I tried for about a month to get a response from him after sending about 4 messages. So understandably the last message I sent was a little heated, to this I actually got a reply and the correct line sent out. I then apologised for the last message but he obviously went ahead and blocked me even though it was all due to his lack of customer support. Ive since had a look at his ebay feedback and appears that if any one allegedly isn't happy with the product or his service and leaves a neutral or negative feedback he just blocks them for ever! So I wonder how my warranty would go with him if I ever need it.... This is making me rethink if I even want to use this turbo now, considering selling it and going with a Precision 5558. End rant...

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some pics. As for torque, I just do them tightish without being hand fisted.

To you guys using the supplied kinugawa braided lines, do I need to use some sort of thread tape on the line to fitting and if so what type? Just starting to bolt it all up today/tomorrow.