slippylotion

Just tell him you want a comp cover without the slots, that's what I did.

How does it connect to a head unit for music playback, Is it RCA or via the radio?

So what material exactly? And what are your reasons? You have me interested.

? +1

Cool. I'll keep that in mind.

By tube I assume you mean the material like used in s/steel manifolds? If so I'd rather the weight of steam pipe any day for its strength and ability to hold in more heat in comparison.

It does mount up there. I'll take a pic of it dummies up. All the info I've found is to keep it short for boost control. It points the top the gate away from the turbo so it will be fine. If it comes to it The gate is a Tial mvs that has water cooling function if you want.

Ok guys, for those that are interested I got my high mount T3 external gate Kelway manifold today so here are a few pics. He makes his own collector, he doesn't buy the pre made one.

Ok guys, for those that are interested I got my Kelway manifold today so here are a few pics. He makes his own collector, he doesn't buy the pre made one.

A mate had a relay that I tried and it made no difference. I then went and got the codes read and it came up with, pressure sensor switch and air bleed switch. So could I assume I Just need to bleed the system then?

Can anyone tell me how to do attesa diagnostics? Im not sure if its via the ecu but I gave that a go and it came up with 0000.

Thanks Ryan, Ive still got your number so I'll give you a call today.

I might take you up on that offer Ryan. I can't find one locally to try it so that would be great if we can swap to test. When is a convenient time to try it?

Well I borrowed a set of factory wheels to see if that fixes the 4WD light issue I'm having. It didn't fix it. The s/hand Bridgestone they gave me measured up at 12mm shorter overall height than the ku31, thought that would be the problem but not looking like it. I 'm going to try and sus out the relay and see if that the problem. How can I check if there is a code to check? Is it read out of the ECU or the attesa control module?

By YAW do you mean the G sensor?

No I haven't swapped them yet. I just looked up the overall heights of the Kumho and Bridgestone, then measured the tread depths and it works out that the bridgestone is 9-10mm shorter in height than the Kumho. Would it be fair to assume this is to much of difference and causing it? Even then if just that one tyre is replaced with a new ku31 that tyre will be around 4mm taller than the other 3. Surely Nissan has given enough margin to allow for something like this.

Ok guys I have a bit of an 4WD problem with my M35. Last week I had the tyres flipped on the rims and while doing it the tyre centre split the side wall of one tyre (their fault and trying to get them to replace it at their cost) Now they fitted a temporary s/hand tyre in the same 245/45-18 size but its a Bridgestone instead of the Kumho ku31 it had. The Bridgestone has 2mm less tread depth than the KU31. Its only been on for a couple days and now the car has started randomly throwing up the 4WD warning light. Could the attesa system be that picky that the s/hand bridgestone is causing the problem? I checked the fluid level and its fine, car drives as normal but when the lights on if I select syncro mode it won't drive the front wheels at all. If I turn the car off and restart it sometimes the light will not appear and then if I select syncro mode it works as normal. Any help is appreciated as Im worried now that if they replace that 1 tyre with a new KU31, that tyre will be 2mm more tread depth than they other 3 and still cause this problem, so I may need to try and get another tyre replace so both tyres on the same axel are the same rolling diameter. So does anyone know exactly what veriance Nissan have given the attesa system for rolling diameter?

Hang on. The fpr can set base pressure between 30 and 70psi, not a max of 70psi and then adjust at 1:1, so you don't have a 25psi window for boost. Now I'll admit I don't what max pressure it can support but it obviously wouldn't let you set the base pressure to 70psi and that's the max it can do. I don't see how an SR is different as its still an air pump effectively just like the vq. I think they also suggest limiting duty cycle to a general point as the inner workings of the injector can hear up when operating at near maximum and cause it to stick shut or open. Again that's my interpretation behind the idea. All set ups should be left with a bit of headroom but if boost spikes badly it's generally for a very short time as you would back off unless you don't watch and listen to your engine and keep the boot in for some strange reason.

Yeah that's an awesome score at that price. I always think about bidding but most of the time they end going for the same. Nice work! It does look like a clearance sale on some of the fear he is having. I wonder if now that most people have jumped ship to BC coilovers if he sells many of his ISC coils as I've seen them going out cheap also.

Dang, where and how much? I just need to sort out the fittings needed to hook it up.

but depending on the pump it can still out put more than enough at a higher pressure. Wont you run into injector flow problems if you lower it? The Bosch 1000cc is rated 1015cc at 43.5psi and a bit more at higher pressures, with a higher pressure of 7ba allowable, so you can run a stock base of 43.5 and still bang in up to 70psi of boost assuming your turbo can do that. if you lower your base pressure id imagine your also dropping the flow rate of the injector, why do that. I'm going to use the walbro 400+lph E85 approved pump and that will still flow 355lph at 70psi, more than enough supply. I did consider 2000cc but if I decide to go back to 98 pump fuel it will need more work to get the afrs spot on as the injector will run at a really low duty cycle. I think my 1000s will get me to 300-320rwkw and seeing as the injector can run with more base pressure to a total of 7bar, I still have a little up my sleeve if needed. The SR block doesn't like too much more than low 300rwkw without starting to distort.

Why would you lower base fuel pressure? I haven't heard of anyone ever lowering it, only upping it to stretch the injectors a tad. On my SR I've unfortunately had to go a/market fpr as gone top feed instead of the side feeds. I think I got a bargain, turbosmart fpr800 with free gauge for $199 delivered.

I can't see it bumping up the base pressure unless your reg is faulty.

Does Craig come from an rb20 where they think it can sit on the limiter all day....lol

That's fine but I know what it displayed. ~6 secs isn't very quick. When I do it again I'll video it for you.