slippylotion

Has anyone dealt with Tuspeed before? I'm thinking of getting some ID1000's from them but I've never dealt with them before so I'm a little reserved. I usually buy via eBay for the protection.

I'm not sure what it's like to drive. On my SR I was running a 2871r 56trim .64 internal T2 with HKS step 2 cams and made 268.5rwkw on 18psi @ 3800rpm running 98pump. It came on pretty hard in 2nd spinning the tyres hard till the top of 2nd but no wheel spin into 3rd. If you worked it correctly I could get little wheel spin in 2nd and it went really hard. Power peaked at 7700rpm but not being built I didn want to rev it harder. At one stage I fitted a .86 exh and it was a lot mor linear in delivery with little wheel spin and great top end but I found with the top end the .64 was also giving me I prefered the better low response it also gave. I've thought about a precision 5557/8 but I think they need a lot of boost to perform and I'm capping boost to 20psi. I'm pretty confident the tdo6sl2-20g I have to go on will crack 300rwkw on E85. Ordering ID1000's tomorrow and FPR then just top feed rail. My main concern is the poor little SR gearbox! I can see an rb25 box is on the cards ?

Double post.

A mate of mine finished tuning an SRdet with the tdo6sl2-20g 8cm ext housing with 38mm ext gate and made 290rwkw on 19psi with BC step 2 cams and on E20 home mix. I have the same turbo ready to go on once I get the manifold but been thinking about going the 10cm as I want it to crack 300rwkw. I will be using E85 so I'll see if the 8 cm can do it otherwise I'll go the 10cm.

Anyone got a t3 10cm v band exh housing for a tdo6sl2-20g they want to sell?

It should read 0 on idle. It will read in vacuum or your case -0.** on idle and light throttle cruise.

Here's an install write up I'd did not long ago. http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=281&p=2419#p2419

Today I pulled out the front upper arms to re-grease the superpro offset bushes, sick of the car sounding like an XB Falcon! Hopefully this has fixed it.

I had the English conversion done in my M35. If I was doing it over again I wouldn't bother. For the price it doesn't add much user control/info at all. You can easily make it out with out the conversion. If it was half price it would be better value. Luckily I already had the video unblock fitted from Japan.

Where? I haven't found one.

Where are you finding the ID1000's for $109? I'm after a set atm. I think the guys running side feed from factory need an a/maker fpr if they are changing to top feed as you then obviously need to change to top feed fuel rail so the factory fpr won't fit. Plus you can then bump up the base pressure a tad to get that bit more from the injectors.

Make sure you get the correct walbro 400lph pump as there is two versions. 1 being E85 usable and the other isn't.

Pretty easy actually. I just bent up a little bracket to secure it using the factory screw holes and used some adhesive foam strip on the bracket to squash up against the back of tweeter. Now that I think about it, I should have taken a pic of it.

Finished installing the speakers today. Turned out really well and even got the bigger Alpine Type R front tweeters to fit in place of the factory tweeter. Better sound quality than the standard speakers without all that harsh pumped up mid bass. Now to decide if I want to upgrade the head unit. Any one knows of a good single DIN unit that plays DVD's and has wifi or bluetooth for music play back? I don't want a screen it it though.

Well done, now you should be able to weed out the shonky pr!cks. Keep looking as genuine examples are out there. Pitty you didn't have a video so we could see it go down.

I wouldn't worry about things like the exhaust being changed. If a car comes through with an a/market exhaust they simply fit a standard exhaust and compliance cat, then when inspected they will refit the a/market exhaust. That's a bonus for you as you don't need to spend cash buying an a/market exhaust. Just make sure fluids and filters are changed, drivers door mirror lense changed, australian approved dot tyres fitted, child seat anchors and to be completely legal they should remove the xenon headlight globes and change it or halogen. They also are meant to change the way the drivers elec window operates so it can't operate for a short period of time when the ignition is switched. I wouldn't worry about that being done though. They should also fit 3 compliance cats to a new dump/front pipe to replace the existing set up. I wouldn't worry about that also as most people like to fit a 3" a/market dump without a cat and a 3" front pipe with a high flow cat. The compliance cat setup will be very restrictive. That's about all I can think of at the moment. Oh, they should also fit new wiper blades, radio expander and australiance compliance immobilizer. Doesn't have to be a full alarm just an auto arming standards approved immobilizer.

FiveO do 1000cc and 1200cc side feeds. They use new JECS injectors and then they high flow them and flow match them. Cheap prices but have heard good and bad things about them. I'm interested in hearing results if any of you guys have used them as I'm trying to decide on a set of FiveO 1200cc or ID1000's.

I made up some speaker mounts for the M35 to fit some Alpine Type R 6.5" front splits and 6.5" rear 2 way coaxial speakers. Made them out of some structural ply I had laying around. These will finish up with the speaker sitting close up to the door trim as the factory speakers do. Will finish them up and install them over the next few days. Pretty happy with the result so far.

Yep just you the correct base map to flash onto it.

Not a prob mate. Good luck. They get rego checks every 2 yrs so they should have a km recorded from no more than 2 yrs ago. They will have the last 2 recordings on it. So of the car now has less km than the last inspection it's a dud.

Never seen that one. Does it completely cover the top of the gate? Looks good ?

I'm thinking of doing this mod as I hate the convertor clutch locking up when in D at speeds as low as 45-50kmph. I sometimes drive in manual 4 so it cant use 5th gear and the clutch lock up. I hate it as when I'm driving at 60kmph and the clutch is locked on its usually got the boost gauge at little to no vacuum or reading 0-2psi if I slightly push the accel pedal and the clutch dosent unlock. I also hate the clutch constantly locking/unlocking when i slighty move the accel pedal. I want to cruise at speeds up to 80kmph with more vacuum as this should result in better fuel usage. Then return the clutch lock to factory at speeds above 80kmph. When I first bought my 180sx it was auto and the clutch wouldn't lock below 80kmph when overdrive was switched on. This is how I want the M35 to be. So how can I wire it as shown above with a resistor via a switch to keep it unlocked around the city then factory connection for highway? Can I use a on/off switch? My wiring knowledge isn't that great so any help is appreciated. Cheers

Try Japanese Import Spares in Adelaide as they normally stock Dixcel rotors for them.

Ask him for the original copy of the Japanese derego paper to check the km's. If he tells you he doesn't have it or can't show you, walk away.

$11500 complied with 84,000km! I'd probably add another 100,000km to that figure at that price. You can find genuine 50-80,000km cars but not at that price.