amosite

Neova's rock! Im sad that this is going to be my last set on teh street car, but f**ked if im paying for another set to come from Japan When the RE01R's wear out on the front of the track car, I will have another think on what I will change to but compared to AD07's both have postitives and negatives which put them pretty much equal.

The best price I have found so far is: 9489 4346 Trent (hornsby) $170 245/45/17 (retail $190 ea) $175 255/40 (retail $195 ea) fitted and balanced. Anyone have a contact that can beat that?

I have used many different tyres. Here are my ratings: Neova = RE01R RE01 DIREZZA The RE01R's warm up quicker and are more sensitive to PSI but wear quicker. I feel they perform better in the wet but have never done a wet track day on them. RE55S DO1J I didnt find that much difference between the 2 above track tyres but the RE55S gave me slightly better lap times Im looking to get some 595 SS as the neovas need replacing, since its my road car, it will see very little track work- I have a dedicated car for that ;-)

Hey all, Its been a while since I have been here and for that matter actually driven my car! Any time I want to go for a fang, the bike gets the preference (K6 thou) Anyway since all the rain and cold weather, I have started to drive again. First time since febuary! I need tyres! I have pretty much narrowed it down to the federal 595 SS. Since I dont drive the R32 hard I cant justify the Neova's or RE01R's again- Even the normal RE01's. So basically, I am looking to get the well priced 595 SS which I have seen for as little as $125 each for the 235/45/17 http://www.holmart.com.au/tyres.html (melb) I have 9'' wheels all around, its currently got the 245/45's neovas on it so I want to look at the 245/45 and the 255/40's that federal offers to make sure my sidewalls going to be "a touch stretched" mainly as I am not using a brand I have used before. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great!

Further to my post a page or 2 ago here is a vid of my car on the dyno and free plug for the tuner http://www.pulseracing.com.au/DynoTuning.htm While his shop/site is only new, he has been tuning for years in Sydney, Bris, Melb, Perth and SA along with overseas contracts and even tunes for shops in Sydney on a subcrontract basis! I have known him for atleast 7 years (worked with him for 4) and have see this first hand but wont name any shops He will upload some details of a mates RB30/25/GT35 combo which is making 450 rw hp on 15 psi on JEMS Dyno.

Further to my previous post above here is the finial figure With the addition of cam gears and finishing the tune it broke 300 kw (403 hp) on 11.8:1 AFR Paul (Pulse Racing) double checked that I wanted it richer. I confirmed- FAT in the mid range, around 11:1, then to Mid 11's and above 6500 keep dumping fuel to cool it. That he did and the result was 6 rw kw less. I would say that this particular car would probably make 305, maybe 310 rw kw on 12.2:1 but I would rather be safe. After driving the car, its fast but not really as fast as previous cars. I will drive it tonight to get a better impression of what its capable of. If I keep it I will put the 550cc injectors in, SARD Fuel reg and the GT3040R on it- but limit it to 350 rw kw as per Pulse/Advans advice (stock rods). Only problem with is with the next stage I will need to change EBC's as I want to run 22-24 psi as it spools up then taper the boost curve back to 18-19 psi above 5000 RPM.

that is an interesting question!

Geez guys, didnt know I touched you so deeply- its the internet, relax. You have your opinion, I have mine. Have I missed something here. I asked a while ago "whats the most boost you have run RELIABLY" on your RB26, no probs. Any more then 14 psi is a risk. OK, noted, advice taken! I did my tests, its still running the same boost before the intercooler as what it did before with the stock cooler. Because the IC that is on it flows more, it resulted in less restriction giving more boost at the maniold. Sure there may be some additional exhaust pressure from the increase in power. Why get upset? Im not going to run any more boost then what it does already. Im not pushing any more boost then what its been on for the past year. Now all of a sudden, my turbo's are at risk?? And my engine will eat ceramic dust? Maybe I should have measure exhaust back pressure before and after. Just to keep you guys happy.. I am not giving you guys a hard time on your theory, I respect that and even asked to look at the pistons, then I get my head bitten off? Who gives a shit, what do you have to loose. The Japs have had more of these for longer then us, so has the UK. I dont recall any mention of engines blowing up when a turbo goes until recently, and its only in australia. Cubes- I asked the tuner about it. He already tried it when working for advan and you cant run more timing or leaner on a stock internal RB26 and the boost level wont justify it. You just get to the point of increasing timing and it doesnt increase toque/power, keep going a few more degrees and it will knock--- EDIT Actually come to think of it the cooler intake temps would be of benefit

Err, you cant see any piston crowns in these pic's- not that it matters what size they are... http://images.google.com/images?q=piston%2...sa=N&tab=wi http://www.apexleisure.co.uk/pistondiagnosis.htm (burn out/blow hole) http://www.ultralightnews.com/rotaxpiston/pistonfail2.htm I can see the rough texture (on your other post), some of it looks like the melting like in the above link/s but the majority looks like something hard has been floating around in there. If something hard has been in there, why is it only isolated to the edges? Its interesting and now starting to bug the shit out of me! I have actually melted a piston so badly it had a whole the size of a 20c piece (cracked intake pipe on a WRX, running 24 psi racing some guy on old winsor rd) More often then not, most melting looks like the top of the piston has been eaten away by some sort of acid leaving pitting. Does it sort of look like that?

Have these been touched at all? I mean have you cleaned the carbon off any of these? Or is the discolouration from something else? The uneven spread of carbon is not a good sign on mixtures, overall it may have been running "rich enough" but it looks like 1 or 2 of the cylinders have been either cleaned or running leaner. The pitting on the ends nearly look like its had metal bouncing around in the combustion but why isnt it on the crown of the piston is very interesting as with it being on both the intake and exhaust side. Do you have any more pictures you can email me? It might be enough to get an opinion on without having to borrow them.

Come back? Just to make you happy, I will get them to run it a touch richer on boost and get them to drop it into low 11's above 6,000

^^ do you own the pistons in the pic? If so is there any chance they can be sent to my engine builder? I would like his professional opinion on them

I have viewed these pic's and to me, its hard to come to a definitive conclusion. You can read as much as you want and look at as many pictures until your eyes are sore but it doesnt make you an expert. If you have every seen a melted forged piston, it looks VERY similar to this. They seem to only melt around the ring land and leave the dish alone. You can see on the first 3 pistons (in the back ground) that they are starting to suffer from the same fate, although not as bad. The carbon (or lack of) around the exhaust side of the piston is a dead give away. In fact, the first 2 pistons at the top (from the left) look like they are suffereing from the same effects. If the front turbo didnt blow, how does a similar "phenomenon" happen in cylinders totally unrelated to the rear turbo? Again, im not being smart, just trying to put lodgic to it all. Do a search on death sprial and you will find some info on what I am referring to. To sum it up, its a combustion process that can leave part or the majority or the piston running quite rich, but other parts very lean. This causes overheating and the metal gets torn away from the piston in the combustion/exhaust process. All death spirals occour on the exhaust side as that is naturally the likely point of the least amount of air/fuel. The only thing that makes me question this pic is that the last pic on the RHS is discoloured, however the pitting is classic lean death spiral. Im not sure if its the way the picture is taken. If the guy who owns these pistons is in Sydney, I would like to take it to my engine builder. He has a mantel piece of melted forged pistons, damaged ring lands, bent rods, cranks that have snapped- if anyone is qualified to make an educated comment, he would be. Do you know if I can get my hands on one of these? Even better the set? I can pick up/meet in Sydney or the owner can drop them off to his shop.

This is the only pic I have, shitty camera phone at night. Bastically they are red and say F.E.T on them Oh, and tuner said it should make a little more mid range but not sure about top end as it already seems maxed out

1.1 bar mid to 1.05 at top end, drops at 6800 due to turbo's being too small. I have calculated pre and post IC pressure at 14 psi at the inlet to work out the pressure drop (no ic has a 0.2 psi/bar pressure drop, a 90 deg 3'' pipe will have more pressure and flow drop!). I then sent the apexi core away to be flow tested, compared against a ARC and HKS core the same size. Apexi came out on top, boost was set so that pressure out of the turbo's is the same as what they would push through a stock IC at 14 psi inlet pressure. The additional flow is where the boost increase is from, not from running more overall boost. If the turbo's are going to fail with me running 1.1 bar now, they were going to fail with me running 1 bar on the stock IC. I have nothing to prove to you guys, I dont actually know many people from here, only a hand full of guys I have actually met unfortunately. I actually want to run an 11 on stock turbo's without gas. A friend of mine is running 12.2 with a 100 shot on a totally stock BCNR33. No intake, no exhaust etc etc. He did install a multi plate clutch in it but. I didnt believe it until I seen the run! The dyno I run on dictates 400 hp will pull an 11.9XX with a half decent launch (as per other BNR32's). Which is why I pretty much want to chase that number, as its leading me in the direction of my goal. Dyno dynamics Dyno's dont vary too much from model to model. The ramp rate an vary the hp printed, as with the way you have your compensations set up or even if you have them on at all. My mates ECR33 with RB30 bottom end makes 450 odd HP on JEMS dyno, but makes 290 rw KW (about 399 hp on 120 ramp rate) on the dyno I use (mines run on 100 ramp rate). Changing ramp rate has a multiplying factor on grunt printed. However his car will only pull away from me in 3rd gear (while im in 2WD mode) and its not a hell of a lot (probably only as his wheel spins a lot more) Basically, between me and my mates we all have conflicting thoughts on what works, how to set up your car etc ect. They all said I would blow the 10A diff I ran with 300 hp to the wheels (originally designed for 65 hp). I ran 11's on that diff. I left numerous 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear black tracks from hard acceleration. I thought I would break it at one point but it never went! While they went and spent 10K on their engine, I spent 10K on the entire car and ran it hard for years (not abusively) Its unspoken of, but we are all out to have 11 second daily driven cars. But with the least amount spent, with the most drivability and economy, and with half decent reliability. Old mate with the BCNR33 on 100 shot is winning but hasnt run the 11....yet! And he's cheating. No one else is running on gas although another mate is setting his up on a 150 shot with similar mods to my car. He wont get more then 2 full power runs Along with this competition, we're also trying to get a 10 from a per '03 600 Super sport. I.e Gix, R6, 6R etc. I havent had a crown in a couple of years and am itching but I hold lap record (in our group) for EC and wakefield (for 3 years) but not oran I just thought of another way I can get atleast 10 hp ATW, run screamer pipes! How hard is it to change dump pipes with the turbo's in place ARRHH!