amosite

Neova's rock! Im sad that this is going to be my last set on teh street car, but f**ked if im paying for another set to come from Japan When the RE01R's wear out on the front of the track car, I will have another think on what I will change to but compared to AD07's both have postitives and negatives which put them pretty much equal.

The best price I have found so far is: 9489 4346 Trent (hornsby) $170 245/45/17 (retail $190 ea) $175 255/40 (retail $195 ea) fitted and balanced. Anyone have a contact that can beat that?

I have used many different tyres. Here are my ratings: Neova = RE01R RE01 DIREZZA The RE01R's warm up quicker and are more sensitive to PSI but wear quicker. I feel they perform better in the wet but have never done a wet track day on them. RE55S DO1J I didnt find that much difference between the 2 above track tyres but the RE55S gave me slightly better lap times Im looking to get some 595 SS as the neovas need replacing, since its my road car, it will see very little track work- I have a dedicated car for that ;-)

Hey all, Its been a while since I have been here and for that matter actually driven my car! Any time I want to go for a fang, the bike gets the preference (K6 thou) Anyway since all the rain and cold weather, I have started to drive again. First time since febuary! I need tyres! I have pretty much narrowed it down to the federal 595 SS. Since I dont drive the R32 hard I cant justify the Neova's or RE01R's again- Even the normal RE01's. So basically, I am looking to get the well priced 595 SS which I have seen for as little as $125 each for the 235/45/17 http://www.holmart.com.au/tyres.html (melb) I have 9'' wheels all around, its currently got the 245/45's neovas on it so I want to look at the 245/45 and the 255/40's that federal offers to make sure my sidewalls going to be "a touch stretched" mainly as I am not using a brand I have used before. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great!

Further to my post a page or 2 ago here is a vid of my car on the dyno and free plug for the tuner http://www.pulseracing.com.au/DynoTuning.htm While his shop/site is only new, he has been tuning for years in Sydney, Bris, Melb, Perth and SA along with overseas contracts and even tunes for shops in Sydney on a subcrontract basis! I have known him for atleast 7 years (worked with him for 4) and have see this first hand but wont name any shops He will upload some details of a mates RB30/25/GT35 combo which is making 450 rw hp on 15 psi on JEMS Dyno.

Further to my previous post above here is the finial figure With the addition of cam gears and finishing the tune it broke 300 kw (403 hp) on 11.8:1 AFR Paul (Pulse Racing) double checked that I wanted it richer. I confirmed- FAT in the mid range, around 11:1, then to Mid 11's and above 6500 keep dumping fuel to cool it. That he did and the result was 6 rw kw less. I would say that this particular car would probably make 305, maybe 310 rw kw on 12.2:1 but I would rather be safe. After driving the car, its fast but not really as fast as previous cars. I will drive it tonight to get a better impression of what its capable of. If I keep it I will put the 550cc injectors in, SARD Fuel reg and the GT3040R on it- but limit it to 350 rw kw as per Pulse/Advans advice (stock rods). Only problem with is with the next stage I will need to change EBC's as I want to run 22-24 psi as it spools up then taper the boost curve back to 18-19 psi above 5000 RPM.

that is an interesting question!

Geez guys, didnt know I touched you so deeply- its the internet, relax. You have your opinion, I have mine. Have I missed something here. I asked a while ago "whats the most boost you have run RELIABLY" on your RB26, no probs. Any more then 14 psi is a risk. OK, noted, advice taken! I did my tests, its still running the same boost before the intercooler as what it did before with the stock cooler. Because the IC that is on it flows more, it resulted in less restriction giving more boost at the maniold. Sure there may be some additional exhaust pressure from the increase in power. Why get upset? Im not going to run any more boost then what it does already. Im not pushing any more boost then what its been on for the past year. Now all of a sudden, my turbo's are at risk?? And my engine will eat ceramic dust? Maybe I should have measure exhaust back pressure before and after. Just to keep you guys happy.. I am not giving you guys a hard time on your theory, I respect that and even asked to look at the pistons, then I get my head bitten off? Who gives a shit, what do you have to loose. The Japs have had more of these for longer then us, so has the UK. I dont recall any mention of engines blowing up when a turbo goes until recently, and its only in australia. Cubes- I asked the tuner about it. He already tried it when working for advan and you cant run more timing or leaner on a stock internal RB26 and the boost level wont justify it. You just get to the point of increasing timing and it doesnt increase toque/power, keep going a few more degrees and it will knock--- EDIT Actually come to think of it the cooler intake temps would be of benefit

Err, you cant see any piston crowns in these pic's- not that it matters what size they are... http://images.google.com/images?q=piston%2...sa=N&tab=wi http://www.apexleisure.co.uk/pistondiagnosis.htm (burn out/blow hole) http://www.ultralightnews.com/rotaxpiston/pistonfail2.htm I can see the rough texture (on your other post), some of it looks like the melting like in the above link/s but the majority looks like something hard has been floating around in there. If something hard has been in there, why is it only isolated to the edges? Its interesting and now starting to bug the shit out of me! I have actually melted a piston so badly it had a whole the size of a 20c piece (cracked intake pipe on a WRX, running 24 psi racing some guy on old winsor rd) More often then not, most melting looks like the top of the piston has been eaten away by some sort of acid leaving pitting. Does it sort of look like that?

Have these been touched at all? I mean have you cleaned the carbon off any of these? Or is the discolouration from something else? The uneven spread of carbon is not a good sign on mixtures, overall it may have been running "rich enough" but it looks like 1 or 2 of the cylinders have been either cleaned or running leaner. The pitting on the ends nearly look like its had metal bouncing around in the combustion but why isnt it on the crown of the piston is very interesting as with it being on both the intake and exhaust side. Do you have any more pictures you can email me? It might be enough to get an opinion on without having to borrow them.

Come back? Just to make you happy, I will get them to run it a touch richer on boost and get them to drop it into low 11's above 6,000

^^ do you own the pistons in the pic? If so is there any chance they can be sent to my engine builder? I would like his professional opinion on them

I have viewed these pic's and to me, its hard to come to a definitive conclusion. You can read as much as you want and look at as many pictures until your eyes are sore but it doesnt make you an expert. If you have every seen a melted forged piston, it looks VERY similar to this. They seem to only melt around the ring land and leave the dish alone. You can see on the first 3 pistons (in the back ground) that they are starting to suffer from the same fate, although not as bad. The carbon (or lack of) around the exhaust side of the piston is a dead give away. In fact, the first 2 pistons at the top (from the left) look like they are suffereing from the same effects. If the front turbo didnt blow, how does a similar "phenomenon" happen in cylinders totally unrelated to the rear turbo? Again, im not being smart, just trying to put lodgic to it all. Do a search on death sprial and you will find some info on what I am referring to. To sum it up, its a combustion process that can leave part or the majority or the piston running quite rich, but other parts very lean. This causes overheating and the metal gets torn away from the piston in the combustion/exhaust process. All death spirals occour on the exhaust side as that is naturally the likely point of the least amount of air/fuel. The only thing that makes me question this pic is that the last pic on the RHS is discoloured, however the pitting is classic lean death spiral. Im not sure if its the way the picture is taken. If the guy who owns these pistons is in Sydney, I would like to take it to my engine builder. He has a mantel piece of melted forged pistons, damaged ring lands, bent rods, cranks that have snapped- if anyone is qualified to make an educated comment, he would be. Do you know if I can get my hands on one of these? Even better the set? I can pick up/meet in Sydney or the owner can drop them off to his shop.

This is the only pic I have, shitty camera phone at night. Bastically they are red and say F.E.T on them Oh, and tuner said it should make a little more mid range but not sure about top end as it already seems maxed out

1.1 bar mid to 1.05 at top end, drops at 6800 due to turbo's being too small. I have calculated pre and post IC pressure at 14 psi at the inlet to work out the pressure drop (no ic has a 0.2 psi/bar pressure drop, a 90 deg 3'' pipe will have more pressure and flow drop!). I then sent the apexi core away to be flow tested, compared against a ARC and HKS core the same size. Apexi came out on top, boost was set so that pressure out of the turbo's is the same as what they would push through a stock IC at 14 psi inlet pressure. The additional flow is where the boost increase is from, not from running more overall boost. If the turbo's are going to fail with me running 1.1 bar now, they were going to fail with me running 1 bar on the stock IC. I have nothing to prove to you guys, I dont actually know many people from here, only a hand full of guys I have actually met unfortunately. I actually want to run an 11 on stock turbo's without gas. A friend of mine is running 12.2 with a 100 shot on a totally stock BCNR33. No intake, no exhaust etc etc. He did install a multi plate clutch in it but. I didnt believe it until I seen the run! The dyno I run on dictates 400 hp will pull an 11.9XX with a half decent launch (as per other BNR32's). Which is why I pretty much want to chase that number, as its leading me in the direction of my goal. Dyno dynamics Dyno's dont vary too much from model to model. The ramp rate an vary the hp printed, as with the way you have your compensations set up or even if you have them on at all. My mates ECR33 with RB30 bottom end makes 450 odd HP on JEMS dyno, but makes 290 rw KW (about 399 hp on 120 ramp rate) on the dyno I use (mines run on 100 ramp rate). Changing ramp rate has a multiplying factor on grunt printed. However his car will only pull away from me in 3rd gear (while im in 2WD mode) and its not a hell of a lot (probably only as his wheel spins a lot more) Basically, between me and my mates we all have conflicting thoughts on what works, how to set up your car etc ect. They all said I would blow the 10A diff I ran with 300 hp to the wheels (originally designed for 65 hp). I ran 11's on that diff. I left numerous 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear black tracks from hard acceleration. I thought I would break it at one point but it never went! While they went and spent 10K on their engine, I spent 10K on the entire car and ran it hard for years (not abusively) Its unspoken of, but we are all out to have 11 second daily driven cars. But with the least amount spent, with the most drivability and economy, and with half decent reliability. Old mate with the BCNR33 on 100 shot is winning but hasnt run the 11....yet! And he's cheating. No one else is running on gas although another mate is setting his up on a 150 shot with similar mods to my car. He wont get more then 2 full power runs Along with this competition, we're also trying to get a 10 from a per '03 600 Super sport. I.e Gix, R6, 6R etc. I havent had a crown in a couple of years and am itching but I hold lap record (in our group) for EC and wakefield (for 3 years) but not oran I just thought of another way I can get atleast 10 hp ATW, run screamer pipes! How hard is it to change dump pipes with the turbo's in place ARRHH!

Who told you this? Either you have their explanation confused, or someone's pulling your leg. An exhaust wheel will cause back pressure which will promote detonation if not properly tuned. If your missing the exhaust wheel, there is less restriction. If it fails, it will be less likely to detonate. Ceramic getting sucked through the valves- Unless you somehow snapped a cam belt at the same time, it is impossible for an engine to open its exhaust valves on a downward stroke of the cylinder. Its even more impossible for anything to get sucked through a closed valve as the air needs to flow the opposite way. The only time I can see you blowing a turbo and blowing an engine is if the front fails too and starts to pump oil into the intake and the engine consumes it. This WILL cause detonation. If you do this and keep driving its not the turbo's fault, your your OWN FAULT I knew this topic would be a bit of controversy. 7 years ago, I built an Rx3 with a 13B turbo, ended up making 300 hp atw on a stock import motor with 40K, a simple high flow, massive IC, fuel pump and a tweaked air flow meter and fuel reg. Only other mods was custom headers, 4 kg flywheel and custom exhaust (massive) Everyone said it was BS, Rick shaw didnt believe me, so I told him I would bring it around and do a run. He was dumb founded! Said it was a ticking time bomb and it would crack and end plate. 4 years later and a dozen track days it was still running strong, started first time, made consistent power. 7 years ago, 300 hp was amazing from a 13B turbo that was stock. Most people had $6K short engines to "hold" this sort of power. A mate started working for rotormaster, the owner didnt believe me so I took it there one saturday, ran it up and he was gob smacked! My mates Rx3 had a 13B Bridge with a T76 and only made 420 hp on 12 psi (limited due to the ECU) Everyone said I had a freak engine and must have been built in Japan. Not likely, it came from an Auto convertible and most of the bolts hadnt been touched by a socket (you can see once removed) Finially another mate was close to finishing his car, stock 13B, Log manifold, 3'' exhaust. I custom made the dump pipe, gave the ECU/AFM a bit of a tickle, 250 rw hp. Obviously he didnt have as many mods, mainly larger compressor wheel and intercooler which is why the power lacked! No one believed me then. That was over 6 years ago. I posted the "how to" on ausrotary, now anyone not making more then 186 rw kw (250hp) from a stock 13B with exhaust has problems and will probably get chased away from the forum (some are not nice over there)

I doubt it will need a rebuild, the tune is safe. Timing is realistic and AFR's are on the rich side. No lean spool, tuned by one of the best in Sydney who tunes all over the world. The turbo's may be a time bomb- just dont be behind me if/when they let go. This is about 15-20 rw kw more then what the tuner has gotten out of a stock turbo'd BNR32- The other car had cams and is still on stock turbo's today. Some of teh other cars are running more boost, less mods and less power! If someone can explain to me, how a ceramic wheel can "blow an engine" I am all ears. The majority of people who have lunched an engine at the same time turbo's went, probably did the engine first, which led to turbo's going. If the ceramic wheels go, it will fly straight out the exhaust. Even if its bad enough to damage the thrust bearing and the compressor wheel somehow comes off, its contents will be stuck in the intercooler. Most IC's are internally finned. Large shards of metal will get caught. Small shards will disintegrate in combustion temps. Im not being a smart ass, but I cant see a quantifiable reason of a ceramic turbo letting go, then taking an engine with it. I might do a search in japan but I recall a LOT of guys over there making 400 ps (just under 400 hp) on stock turbo's AND taking them to track days!

'90 model, 85,000 klms with up to date log books Near stock, currently sitting at 286 rw kw (approx 383 rw hp) Currently being tuned for a bit more mid range as it seems the turbo's are at their max. Mods: Kakimoto 4'' from dump pipes Roguepi Hard pipe intake and cross over pipe Apexi 115mm intercooler (couldnt find a 130mm one) F.E.T ignition coils IRIWAY plugs (could be iritop, cant rememeber) Profec B (original type) Power FC Dejetro (AFM's still fitted) 286 rw kw (383 rw hp) Cam belt being done along with cam gears, waiting to hear back from tuner but probably wont make any more power. Hopefully it wil have a bit more mid range. Most ppl on here laughed when I said I wanted 300 rw kw (400 rw hp) with stock turbo's. Im not far off my mark and havent done half the shit they said I would need to do. Looking to get 400 hp atw with stock turbo's but not sure what I can do next. My brother is suggesting alloy pulley kit (Water, powersteering, alternator) along with a billet 5.2kg flywheel which should free up some power putting it close to the mark. Let me know what your thoughts are, I want to leave the turbo's, manifolds and dump pipes so all other options will be considered (except for cams). Really only trying to prove a pont that 400 rw hp can be made with bolt on's and stock turbo's. If the turbo's could be easily removed, I would seriously consider getting the housings machined for a bit more clearance- which will give a bit more lag at the expense of outright flow. I will update my post in the RB26 results thread as soon as I get the car back. P.s Ramp rate is 100, should be good for a flat 12 if the clutch holds it. This is also a summer tune. It might get closer to 400 rw hp in winter but thats not the point....

'90 model, 85,000 klms with up to date log books Near stock, currently sitting at 286 rw kw (approx 383 rw hp) Currently being tuned for more mid range as it seems the turbo's are at their max. Mods: Kakimoto 4'' from dump pipes Roguepi Hard pipe intake and cross over pipe Apexi 115mm intercooler (couldnt find a 130mm one) F.E.T ignition coils IRIWAY plugs (could be iritop, cant rememeber) At this stage, the car was making 240 rw kw (321 rw hp) Added an original Profec B- now making 260 or so rw kw (252 rw hp) on 1 psi less then previously Added Power FC Dejetro (AFM's still fitted) 286 rw kw (383 rw hp) Cam belt being done along with cam gears, waiting to hear back from tuner but probably wont make any more power. Hopefully it wil have a bit more mid range. Looking to get 400 hp atw with stock turbo's but not sure what I can do next. My brother is suggesting alloy pulley kit (Water, powersteering, alternator) along with a billet 5.2kg flywheel which should free up some power putting it close to the mark. Everyone on here laughed when I said I wanted 300 rw kw (400 rw hp) with stock turbo's. Im not far off my mark and havent done half the shit they said I would need to do. I will update this with a scan as soon as I get the car back (next week maybe) P.s Ramp rate is 100, should be good for a flat 12 if the clutch holds it. This is also a summer tune. It might get closer to 400 rw hp in winter but thats not the point....

Maybe we should have another topic "what have you damaged when your turbo's went BANG"

If your car was tuned in the 12's and is now running in the 14's its running LEAN! I.e you need a retune. If your intake is flowing more air, but the tune remains the same it will run leaner as the PFC doesnt compensate (unless tuned otherwise) As with any intake, you will get increased induction noise which also means a louder BOV

sounds like a lean pop/misfire If you get your car tuned with a clogged/dirty air filter, once cleaned the increase in flow will make it run lean as its tuned on a restricted intake

If it has HKS Cams you will see HKS Cast into the cams by removing the oil cap and spinning it over a few times. Unfortunately the duration is on the end where the cam gears bolt to and cant be seen easily. Only early HKS cams have them just under the HKS logo. The tomei cams are stamped with serial numbers on the cam thrust washers. You might have to remove the rocker cover to see this one. A couple of things to note. Most GTST's have a baby smooth idle. A 4'' exhaust will exhibit a bit of a lumpy idle but is more of a burble from the exhaust then engine idle If cam timing is way out it can give the same symptoms Probably the easiest guestimation is if your car has unusually strong mid/top end for the mods. I imported a car a while back and it had stupid mid range even though it was on low boost at the time. I.e wheelspin in 1st and 2nd on 7 psi! Didnt think anything of it. I cleaned the TB and intake with upper engine cleaner a while later and it was running rough. I didnt remember what it originally ran like as I only drove it once and was away for 6 weeks OS so wasnt sure. Got my brother to look at it and he said it had cams, but sounds like the plugs are f&&*ed! Inspected through the oil cap and he said it had tomei markings on it- but there was no mention on the auction. I emailed a copy of the auction sheet and he said "it has tomei cams" but I couldnt translate/understand that part. Which brings me to my last point. Once I put new plugs in it, ran a lot cleaner and smoother. Iriway and iritop plugs are great!

Do your self a favor, go for the kakimoto 4'' or the HKS Duel 60mm. Kakimoto makes a duel 72mm but costs about $3K and is stupidly loud at full noise! Yes, they are loud when you rev them but normal every day driving is fine. If you find it too loud, put another resonator in it! The gains from a 3'' or even an 80mm system is considerable!!! Quicker spool up too! You only need back pressure on NA cars. You can run a large muffler at the rear of a big system or duel system as the exhaust has stopped expanding- so it keeps it quiet but still flows!

Yes, they did, but they had the smaller 6U00 where the Homologated N1 has RS580 and RS581 which were stupidly laggy with 60mm comp and a back cut exhaust. E.g no boost until 5,000 RPM They had the 17'' forged BBS wheels, Brembo's (same as R33) and a few other major and minor changes. Compressor Compressor Wheel Compressor Compressor Compressor Turbine Turbine Wheel Turbine Turbine Turbine Cut back Core Comments Housing Wheel (mm) Trim A/R Housing Wheel (mm) Trim A/R Bearings BNR32 & R33 (14411-24U00) T3 T3 42.5 - 60.1 50T 0.42 T25 T25 41.5 - 50.5 62T 0.48 270° Ceramic ~225PS 32Nismo (14411-06U00) T04B T3 44.6 - 60.1 62T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 15° 270° ~300PS 33N1 (14411-24U10) T3 T3 44.5 - 60.1 55T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 360° ~280PS BNR34 (14411-AA300) GT22 C100 39.6 - 56.0 50T 0.53 T25 GT25 41.7 - 50.4 68T 0.48 BB Ceramic (T3?) ~225PS 34N1 (14411-AA401) T3 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.6 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~250PS 34N1 (14411-AA402) T3 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.6 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~250PS 34N1 (14411-AA403) GT22 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~250PS HKS GT2510 T04B T03 47.7 63T 0.6 T25 GT25 41.7 62T 0.64 BB ~310PS (T3?) HKS GT2530 T04B T03 47.7 - 60.0 63T 0.6 T25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8? 76T 0.64 BB ~320PS (T3?) HKS GT2540 T04B T04E 51.7 - 76.2 46T 0.6 T25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~350PS (T3?) HKS GT2835 51.2 - 71.1 0.61 T3 GT25 51.8 - 56.5 56T 0.64 BB ~375PS HKS GT-SS T04B GT25 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.85? 62T 0.64 BB ~280PS HKS GT-ZZ BB ~330PS HKS GT-RS T04E? GT25 51.2 52T 0.6 T25 GT25 47 76T 0.64 BB ~400PS Nismo 260RS (14411-RR595) T3 T3 44.5 55T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 CD79 0.64 360° ~280PS Nismo for street (14411-RS580) T04B T3 62T 0.42 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 7° 360° ~280PS Nismo GT/le mans(14411-RS581) T04B T3 55T 0.6 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 15° 360° ~320PS Nismo R1 (1441A-RSR45) T3 T3 55T 0.42 T25 GT25 62T 0.64 BB ~280PS This is a lot easier to understand in excel This is MOSTLY Correct. Some things I know are incorrect is that the RS580 dont have a 0.42 comp but a 0.60 and also says RS580 is "Nismo for street" which is not correct either. I think they have this mixed or needs more information to be 100% correct. I agree and disagree- more below I agree with this more as you are able to make your own somewhat educated decision. The last thing im going to do is a noob thing and state current mods, planed mods and wait for one line answers from people who know squat, or people who know a lot, but give a general (read quick) answer. The other 90% of replies will be 14 psi and a shit load of post whores quoting the same shit. I feel readers will get more out of this thread with the way I have asked the question. Especially if someone does a search at a later date and thinks to themselves "beaut, 17 psi for me" (on their near stock set up) then posts a topic "blew my turbo's on 17 psi due to thread XXX..." Then thinks this forum (and users) is a bunch of tossing salad.