Komdotkom

But to be fair, I think people have gone faster on Bob Jane All Rounders than AR1's; particularly if it's wet.

https://www.kumho.com.au/tyres/racing/ Generally people don't run slicks because most of them don't heat cycle very well, and they aren't legal for many types of racing. Track tyres and road tyres are never the same thing and I can't think of a tyre which does both well. A second set of rims with track rubber is the simplest solution; in my experience aside from seat time quality tyres are the best way to lower lap times.

I've run most of the semis which are available and sadly you can pretty much rank them by price. Fast and spendy = Z221, A050, DZ03G Ok and mid range price = R888, V70A, A052 I don't really rate the AR-1 because it's not cheap enough for the performance level offered. Yes, they're much cheaper than A050 but V70A can be had just as cheap and is a much faster and more predictable tyre.

That's a solid update mate, well done at WA FOS. You may already know this, but the actuators on the paddle shift are a service item and are sadly not that reliable. As I understand it they collect water from the compressor (condensation) which then rusts the bores/pistons in the actuators. A mate of mine had no end of trouble with them in one if his circuit cars, apparently it's a 'known issue'. Buy a couple of spares at great expense to ensure you never have any problems with the ones you've got! Any clues about what the new WTAC rules might be? While faster cars are cool the Pro class arms race has got to the point where you wouldn't even bother entering without a $1m budget and even then I don't think you'd win.

The struggle is real with lower ratios, has cost me a fortune making my 3.5 work. Pull it apart, stuck one stub axle in a vice spline facing up, then stick the centre on. Insert the other stub axle then apply torque wrench. Report back. I suspect it's borked. The good news is they're pretty simple inside, bad news is parts for the Nismo stuff are hard to come by.

I've got a R33 turbo box I don't need if you're interested. I only ran it for a couple of track days and on the dyno before going sequential. In Melbourne, $1500 if you don't stuff me around.

I just put one on my car, nice bit of gear. I've had an astra pump on a car before and wasn't a huge fan, need a way of controlling the pump speed so it doesn't drive like a '70s Valiant

I don't know if the hubs are different but it would be pretty simple to machine the sensor hole. If you want a set my hubs finally arrived for my billet uprights so I have a spare set

Get r32 abs uprights? That's what I have on my car. I've got some new tone rings if you want them. I just run a gt101 in the abs hole, pretty simple. I can get you some pictures on the weekend if you like

I'm still waiting for the bearings from Jesse Streeter so haven't fitted them yet. King pins don't fit though, if you're thinking about doing it get the king pins now because the new stock seems to be 3x the price. I got one from Kudos and one off ebay from JP 40022-60U05. If you get them from NZ get him to mark the value down, I got touched for $2k in duty and gst

I've got a Ross trigger kit (crank only) and have modified it to use a Bosch Motorsport reluctor instead of a hall sensor. It's been fine with 36+1 to 8000rpm and hasn't thrown any belts. I made my own cam trigger out of a dead CAS and one of these, pretty simple job and looks like a stock CAS. At the time I was going for a stock looking engine bay but the dry sump has kind of ruined that. https://www.nzefi.com/product/crankshaft-reluctor-trigger-sensor/

I thought you were remarkably coherent and made the most of the inane questions you were given to work with. I love the thumbnail shot with dust blowing up from the diffuser.

The same reason we do anything on these shit heaps. Because I can.

I'm still waiting for parts from Japan. Probably not worth it, it's at $10k exercise I got the uprights from KiwiCNC but after import tax and duty Brypar is a similar price

For anyone else stupid enough to try this, the GTST kingpins don't fit either. You'll need 40022-60U05

Having seen a 350z diff swap I wouldn't do it, they don't really fit because the diff mounting ears are higher up the case and the diff sits very low in the sub frame. I looked at it but am getting 3.5 gears from Neat instead.

I run the turbo water return along the rail and into the tank of the radiator with a -6AN line. My radiator is a dual pass cross flow so it was easy to weld the fitting straight on there. Also, it's a race car so zero f**ks given about heaters and so on. In relation to buying an M3/GT3 instead of tipping money into an old shitbox, tell me about it! I do sort of worry that a modern super car would be too perfect so I keep digging a deeper hole with my R32 and stick my head in it!

What sort of power difference do you think you'll see between the two engines? Is it just the extra RPM from the wide journal that you're chasing?

You know it's cold when even the Tasmanian's are rugged up! Can't wait to see the pictures of the next step.

Front

I've purchased some billet gtr uprights for my barge, but because it's a gtst the ball joints at both ends of the lower arms are different. I can't just buy an aftermarket gtr lower arm because it doesn't fit my cross member, is there an off the shelf solution? I've got an incredible fabricator but he's slow AF so would prefer something "bolt in" (LOL we know how that goes) Any tips? No ZSS or Chinese knock off shit either.

Thanks gents, I think I'll get a PSR and see how it goes. I saw an interesting video in YT where a guy stripped one and the bearings were similar to the GTX series instead of the newer G series, but for 40% of the Garrett price I suppose there has to be some sort of trade off!

What does everyone think about PSR vs Garrett? I've got a genuine G30-770 but would probably get away with a G35-900 because I've got a sequential. Are the real ones worth more than double the price?

I feel like it's something in the fuel, 10 years ago we never had an issue but now everything rubber seems to fail quickly whether it's E85 or 98. You can use a longer section and just put a loop in it, looks a bit ghetto but doesn't swell up. 500kw should be pretty exciting on the street.