Komdotkom

You can always just change to a custom made single window disc for the existing CAS instead of the the Murrayis cam trigger, that's what I'm doing.

Hmm, not much info provided by third parties and end users - it all seems to be coming from the vendors.

Spool Spline Drive Oil Pump Gears - Anyone actually used them? These appear to be a great idea, but has anyone taken the plunge? http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil-pump-gears/nissan-rb/rb-spline-driven-billet-oil-pump-gears

I run 332x32 curved vane floating rotors on mine. It's not a cheap option, stick with the 324mm from a GTR unless you are racing.

I've found it makes a pretty big difference on cars that are under braked. From memory the Sumitomo's have aluminium pistons which transmit the heat very quickly to the fluid and boil it, so by adding a thermal shim you can reduce the amount of rapid heat transfer. This is why racing calipers (AP Racing et al) have castelated pistons to increase ariflow and reduce the amount of surface contact with the back of a very hot brake pad. Obviously you can't get away from the radiant heat but this is absorbed at a slower rate, so in short sprints thermal shims should be fairly effective and for $40 you can't really go wrong.

Can you get a Ti pad shim for the Sumitomo's? Pretty cheap and helps to stop the heat from the back of the pad getting absorbed by the piston and hence the fluid. They can be made pretty easily with a set of quality shears and some .5mm Ti6Al4V which you can get online for about $40.

I've done it on the earlier ones, but not the R34 CAS. They're just a sealed bearing you'll be able to get them from a bearing wholesaler.

Lol, I think we both know that won't be true! I'll probably grab a set after I've killed my current tyres just to see how bad they are.

The NanKangs are seriously cheap too, I've seen 265/35/18 for ~$200 each!

PM Sent, I'll take the calipers.

I'm keen to hear what you think of the MCA's on the track and the range of adjustabilty. What spring rates did you end up with? Car looks great, I'm not a lover of the 4 door but this one is as tough as.

You have pm

Intercooler, BOV and 324mm rotors now sold.

Hi mate, Venx has first dibs but if it falls through I'm happy to post.

Grey wheels sold pending payment.

PM me your number mate.

Green GTR wheels and semi slicks all sold.

Part number on the DS3000's? What pad shape are they?

Seats, harnesses and Tilton clutch sold. Exquisit, your inbox is full.

Also got a Wolf 3D v4 plug in for an R33 RB25DET with hand controller. $200

I'm parting out an R32 GTST race car. I've got a few other parts let me know if you need anything else. 1) R32 bolt in six point roll cage, built by Independent Race Cars. CAMS compliant $700 2) R32 stainless steel exhaust, 2.5 inch with "cat" custom made $300 3) R32 Turbosmart Kompact BOV, new $100 4) R32 GTR wheels x 6 reasonable condition a few chips but no rash $500 for the grey set of 4 $250 for the green set of 2 No tyres 5) 205/55/16 RE55 semi slicks x 6 $70 each 75-80% tread 6) TFN brand R33 GTR rotors slotted, brand new $120 7) R32 HICAS lock bar $40 8) Cobra Imola S race seats x2 good condition and very comfortable $650 Blitz SE return flow cooler, pipes, clamps and joiners $300 Heaps of Tilton, Quatermaster and AP racing clutches in 26 spline, PM if you are interested. Direct clutch twin plate (200mm) to suit SR20 with flywheel. Newly serviced with new drive plates $1000 Motec UTC $100 Motec to R32 patch loom $200 RB20 and S1 RB25 yellow jacket coils $150 R32 GK-Tech cooling plate $20 R32 GTR front calipers and near new slotted RDA rotors $250

Why don't you data log your brake line pressures then work out the brake torque? Given that you are talking about dropping cubic dollars on a fix, I'd be making an informed decision rather than what the guy at AP said, remember he's selling the product. +1 to everything that Roy said.

The rings are a file fit for every CP piston I've ever used, so just get a new set for your pistons and adjust them to fit. Piston to bore is going to be a bigger concern if that's the way your rings are.

I agree, you have an RB26 with issues and a damaged ECU both of which are going to cost cubic dollars to fix properly. Part it out and buy a runner, you'd be surprised how much you'll get for the components.

PM'd re exhaust