Komdotkom

Having seen a 350z diff swap I wouldn't do it, they don't really fit because the diff mounting ears are higher up the case and the diff sits very low in the sub frame. I looked at it but am getting 3.5 gears from Neat instead.

I run the turbo water return along the rail and into the tank of the radiator with a -6AN line. My radiator is a dual pass cross flow so it was easy to weld the fitting straight on there. Also, it's a race car so zero f**ks given about heaters and so on. In relation to buying an M3/GT3 instead of tipping money into an old shitbox, tell me about it! I do sort of worry that a modern super car would be too perfect so I keep digging a deeper hole with my R32 and stick my head in it!

What sort of power difference do you think you'll see between the two engines? Is it just the extra RPM from the wide journal that you're chasing?

You know it's cold when even the Tasmanian's are rugged up! Can't wait to see the pictures of the next step.

Front

I've purchased some billet gtr uprights for my barge, but because it's a gtst the ball joints at both ends of the lower arms are different. I can't just buy an aftermarket gtr lower arm because it doesn't fit my cross member, is there an off the shelf solution? I've got an incredible fabricator but he's slow AF so would prefer something "bolt in" (LOL we know how that goes) Any tips? No ZSS or Chinese knock off shit either.

Thanks gents, I think I'll get a PSR and see how it goes. I saw an interesting video in YT where a guy stripped one and the bearings were similar to the GTX series instead of the newer G series, but for 40% of the Garrett price I suppose there has to be some sort of trade off!

What does everyone think about PSR vs Garrett? I've got a genuine G30-770 but would probably get away with a G35-900 because I've got a sequential. Are the real ones worth more than double the price?

I feel like it's something in the fuel, 10 years ago we never had an issue but now everything rubber seems to fail quickly whether it's E85 or 98. You can use a longer section and just put a loop in it, looks a bit ghetto but doesn't swell up. 500kw should be pretty exciting on the street.

Rubber based in tank fuel line never lasts. You need this stuff, I've never had a failure https://www.efihardware.com/products/c404/E85-Fuel-Hose-and-Pipe

I've got a Nexus for one of my other cars and I was surprised how simple it is to use and seems like a good quality bit of gear. The tech support guys are good to chat with too.

I'll chime in here with my experience. Motec is great if you have the money and know a good person to support you. They don't really offer retail support and the dealers make SFA margin on the product, so the business model is setup for you to be supported by a dealer. I'm lucky enough to know a guy who's ex Motec and very generous with his time and is a total boffin. In addition to that, I also use Brad Sherriff who's an absolute legend to work with. The downside to Motec is the software isn't very intuitive, pay to play, poor/limited online support and costly upgrades. I've not owned an Emtron myself but a good friend runs a performance workshop in Melbourne who is an Emtron dealer. They won't be fitting any more to customer cars because of the poor level of knowledge within the Emtron support team and lack of ability to solve issues with the platform. Not to mention the circumstances around the establishment of the product and company in the first place. I've run Motec's since the old M8's back in the early 2000's so I'm certainly not without a bias but I look at it like this. Everyone acknowledges Motec as the best consumer grade product without spending mega dollars on Bosch Motorsport / Life Racing and so on. When you consider the real cost of your car (not what you tell your mrs) the cost difference between an Emtron and a Motec is tiny, why would you compromise over a few hundred dollars?

Setup a dial indicator on the dogbone and pump the pedal. If that's not moving then the caliper is moving in the radial mounts. If you think about it, the movement you are seeing (3-5mm) is miles above the elastic limit of the caliper material, so you'd be seeing cracks if this was a flex issue.

While all of the above makes sense, we're not talking about some Ling Long calipers of AliExpress; Alcon would have to be one of the top 5 caliper suppliers in the world and these are not their budget units. If there were manufacturing defects in the caliper causing this issue I'd be very disappointed. Having re-watched the video a few times I think it's dog bone/mount related. The caliper moves independently to the rest of the suspension and brake assembly which suggests to me that it's not mounted rigidly. I know this sounds stupid, but have you got enough thread on the retaining bolts or are they a poofteenth too long and it's not super tight? For axial movement to be occurring without deforming the caliper that can be the only answer.

Did you get this sorted out? I'd be interested to hear what you think of this brake upgrade, I'm currently looking for a new setup. With the Yen on it's knees I'm tempted by an Endless kit at the moment.

I've got a brand new BM57 for this upgrade if you need it.

PM'd you some pics.

I've got a national spec cage in my R32 if you need any pics. As you've pointed out the cockpit of an R32 is tiny and there is very little room left over particularly if you're running winged seats. My seats almost touch in the middle and they rub on the window glass, with a double cross in the roof helmet clearance is a massive issue. My co conspirator is a big unit 6'4 and 120kg and he can't get out of the car without a removable steering wheel, this would be simpler if he didn't have a massive gut I suppose!

Stick the caliper in your vice with soft jaws, that way you can turn it upside down simply. I think the factory lines are 10x1mm but I'd just take the whole thing down to your local Pirtek/MSCN and get them to sort it out.

The most important thing to do is to ensure that the pistons are fully back in the bores so that you can't get air bubbles forming behind them. If you've got AKB springs then you'll need to make some timber wedges to hold them back which is pretty simple - but you'll need wedges for bleeding anyway to stop the pistons moving up the bore. I'm a big fan of bleeding calipers from the 'bottom' because bubbles like to go 'up'. Since you're going to have the calipers off the car and mounted to some sort of fixture (unless you've got 5 sets of hands) I'd suggest that you bleed it by introducing fluid from both directions and with the caliper in both orientations. Get a barb for the end of your braided line and go to the chemist and get a 100ml syringe to force the fluid through with. You can use any old shit fluid for this (*new) because you'll displace it once you bleed the system properly later on with SRF or similar. Probably worth cracking the transfer pipe too just to be sure. Once you've got brake fluid everywhere and no more bubbles stick the caliper back on the car and bleed the fluid up from the caliper to the MC.

Looks to be a two part problem to me. Air behind pistons on one side of the caliper and a flexible dog bone. I know all the cool kids run alloy dog bones for the added lightness but I prefer steel because I've had problems with an alloy kit before (chattering). This sounds extreme but I'd force all the pistons right back in the bores, bleed the caliper on the bench, re-install and bleed the system again. Assuming there are no AKB springs in these?

You can probably just purchase the crank, rods and pistons from Spool Imports as a package.

It's also worth noting that the static compression ratio needs to be considered in conjunction with your camshaft specification to ascertain the dynamic compression. 9.5:1 is fine with stock cams but if you're running 288's then you'll be pumping 120psi and it'll be a dog.

Doesn't the 370z box have a gear position sensor? Worth looking to see if it can be retro fitted

Really high quality work mate, love the high spec wiring rather than what people usually do.