Komdotkom

I've got a R33 turbo box I don't need if you're interested. I only ran it for a couple of track days and on the dyno before going sequential. In Melbourne, $1500 if you don't stuff me around.

I just put one on my car, nice bit of gear. I've had an astra pump on a car before and wasn't a huge fan, need a way of controlling the pump speed so it doesn't drive like a '70s Valiant

I don't know if the hubs are different but it would be pretty simple to machine the sensor hole. If you want a set my hubs finally arrived for my billet uprights so I have a spare set

Get r32 abs uprights? That's what I have on my car. I've got some new tone rings if you want them. I just run a gt101 in the abs hole, pretty simple. I can get you some pictures on the weekend if you like

I'm still waiting for the bearings from Jesse Streeter so haven't fitted them yet. King pins don't fit though, if you're thinking about doing it get the king pins now because the new stock seems to be 3x the price. I got one from Kudos and one off ebay from JP 40022-60U05. If you get them from NZ get him to mark the value down, I got touched for $2k in duty and gst

I've got a Ross trigger kit (crank only) and have modified it to use a Bosch Motorsport reluctor instead of a hall sensor. It's been fine with 36+1 to 8000rpm and hasn't thrown any belts. I made my own cam trigger out of a dead CAS and one of these, pretty simple job and looks like a stock CAS. At the time I was going for a stock looking engine bay but the dry sump has kind of ruined that. https://www.nzefi.com/product/crankshaft-reluctor-trigger-sensor/

I thought you were remarkably coherent and made the most of the inane questions you were given to work with. I love the thumbnail shot with dust blowing up from the diffuser.

The same reason we do anything on these shit heaps. Because I can.

I'm still waiting for parts from Japan. Probably not worth it, it's at $10k exercise I got the uprights from KiwiCNC but after import tax and duty Brypar is a similar price

For anyone else stupid enough to try this, the GTST kingpins don't fit either. You'll need 40022-60U05

Having seen a 350z diff swap I wouldn't do it, they don't really fit because the diff mounting ears are higher up the case and the diff sits very low in the sub frame. I looked at it but am getting 3.5 gears from Neat instead.

I run the turbo water return along the rail and into the tank of the radiator with a -6AN line. My radiator is a dual pass cross flow so it was easy to weld the fitting straight on there. Also, it's a race car so zero f**ks given about heaters and so on. In relation to buying an M3/GT3 instead of tipping money into an old shitbox, tell me about it! I do sort of worry that a modern super car would be too perfect so I keep digging a deeper hole with my R32 and stick my head in it!

What sort of power difference do you think you'll see between the two engines? Is it just the extra RPM from the wide journal that you're chasing?

You know it's cold when even the Tasmanian's are rugged up! Can't wait to see the pictures of the next step.

Front

I've purchased some billet gtr uprights for my barge, but because it's a gtst the ball joints at both ends of the lower arms are different. I can't just buy an aftermarket gtr lower arm because it doesn't fit my cross member, is there an off the shelf solution? I've got an incredible fabricator but he's slow AF so would prefer something "bolt in" (LOL we know how that goes) Any tips? No ZSS or Chinese knock off shit either.

Thanks gents, I think I'll get a PSR and see how it goes. I saw an interesting video in YT where a guy stripped one and the bearings were similar to the GTX series instead of the newer G series, but for 40% of the Garrett price I suppose there has to be some sort of trade off!

What does everyone think about PSR vs Garrett? I've got a genuine G30-770 but would probably get away with a G35-900 because I've got a sequential. Are the real ones worth more than double the price?

I feel like it's something in the fuel, 10 years ago we never had an issue but now everything rubber seems to fail quickly whether it's E85 or 98. You can use a longer section and just put a loop in it, looks a bit ghetto but doesn't swell up. 500kw should be pretty exciting on the street.

Rubber based in tank fuel line never lasts. You need this stuff, I've never had a failure https://www.efihardware.com/products/c404/E85-Fuel-Hose-and-Pipe

I've got a Nexus for one of my other cars and I was surprised how simple it is to use and seems like a good quality bit of gear. The tech support guys are good to chat with too.

I'll chime in here with my experience. Motec is great if you have the money and know a good person to support you. They don't really offer retail support and the dealers make SFA margin on the product, so the business model is setup for you to be supported by a dealer. I'm lucky enough to know a guy who's ex Motec and very generous with his time and is a total boffin. In addition to that, I also use Brad Sherriff who's an absolute legend to work with. The downside to Motec is the software isn't very intuitive, pay to play, poor/limited online support and costly upgrades. I've not owned an Emtron myself but a good friend runs a performance workshop in Melbourne who is an Emtron dealer. They won't be fitting any more to customer cars because of the poor level of knowledge within the Emtron support team and lack of ability to solve issues with the platform. Not to mention the circumstances around the establishment of the product and company in the first place. I've run Motec's since the old M8's back in the early 2000's so I'm certainly not without a bias but I look at it like this. Everyone acknowledges Motec as the best consumer grade product without spending mega dollars on Bosch Motorsport / Life Racing and so on. When you consider the real cost of your car (not what you tell your mrs) the cost difference between an Emtron and a Motec is tiny, why would you compromise over a few hundred dollars?

Setup a dial indicator on the dogbone and pump the pedal. If that's not moving then the caliper is moving in the radial mounts. If you think about it, the movement you are seeing (3-5mm) is miles above the elastic limit of the caliper material, so you'd be seeing cracks if this was a flex issue.

While all of the above makes sense, we're not talking about some Ling Long calipers of AliExpress; Alcon would have to be one of the top 5 caliper suppliers in the world and these are not their budget units. If there were manufacturing defects in the caliper causing this issue I'd be very disappointed. Having re-watched the video a few times I think it's dog bone/mount related. The caliper moves independently to the rest of the suspension and brake assembly which suggests to me that it's not mounted rigidly. I know this sounds stupid, but have you got enough thread on the retaining bolts or are they a poofteenth too long and it's not super tight? For axial movement to be occurring without deforming the caliper that can be the only answer.