Komdotkom

I can't see the video of this laying 11's up the street, can you upload again please.

Same here, no cracking but my cage also goes end to end.

You can change the oil but I'd avoid full synthetic until you've done a few more km. Chrome or iron rings? If they're iron go for it they'll be fine, chome just a bit longer

Good work mate, especially when you've got the spicy flu. Leave the running in oil in there for a bit longer, change the filter if you're worried. I like to get 500km on them with mineral oil before changing to synthetic.

You forgot jet ski's and neck tatts.

At least you know how to change it if it's not enough! It's a pity they aren't accessible without removing the sump (and the engine)

It's only money. This arrived for mine yesterday

I did mine in the BMRS crimp on stuff, the -16 fittings for the dry sump were quite expensive. Just wait until the 18 " jellydonger arrives!

I always use break in oil, I like the Joe Gibbs stuff. It's expensive but so are engines, what's another few hundred when you compare it to your Speedflow invoice

What's another $10k, you don't need to eat right? Interestingly the guy from Brypar said don't worry about the rear uprights, apparently there's not much to gain there.

Let me know if you want to hit them up for a group discount, $4k I can justify to myself.

I had no issues fitting the new Ti fasteners but there was a reasonable amount of slotting required.

Let me know if you can get a better deal out of Brypar for his uprights. I got a price of him recently which was frankly insulting. $8500 plus shipping for a pair, I recall when they were $4k (which I'd happily pay). This would solve the wheel bearing issues. I was looking at the front cross member in mine the other day and the first thought I had was to lower the steering rack so that engine and therefore mass centroid axis could be lowered. I'm sure the internet experts and armchair racers will chime in here about steering geometry but my fabricator is ex 888 Racing so has half a clue about this stuff.

I think that's true of many people within the automotive after market. Too busy working in the business to be working on the business.

I heard from Artec today (after I emailed them again) and they were very apologetic and stated that the early manifolds had QC issues. They offered to pay the courier costs to them for rectification and return back to me. Their solution is to enlarge the holes, they assure me the port alignment is good. I said that I've got access to a mill and will just fix it myself and send them the bill, it'll be cheaper than the couriers anyway and not done with a die grinder. I'll stick the inspection camera down there and see what the port interface is like. Yep, I totally would have had a Sinco instead and they were my first choice but it was almost impossible to purchase anything from them. I called and emailed a few times and got no response. I'm not a fan of the WG integration on the 6Boost products, but they seem to make good power. My fabricator is a full boffin and wants to make something but I don't have time for that.

I'll post that head drain to you tomorrow mate if I don't forget.

Suggested alternatives? I quite like the look of these https://www.waltonmotorsport.com/product/walton-motorsport-rb-turbo-manifold-rb20-rb25-rb26/

Nothing so far from Artec, maybe I'll have to go back through their dealer network.

I tried to fit mine today, manifold drilling was miles out and will not fit. Woeful alignment, who knows what the ports will be like... Waiting to hear from Artec next week.

https://speedflow.com.au/npt-in-hex-plugs-from/

M4 or M6 something like that. I can't recall the size for RB's but I mostly use 1/8 NPT

Holy thread derailment batman! You can totally grub screw the crank yourself if you are looking to save time / money, just use a bit of care and NPT taps. I have broken an NPT tap off in a crank before, it wasn't fun to remove. Make a basic slide hammer out of a bit of all thread the plugs are not that tight (which always surprises me). The other option is just get one of these, then you won't have to waste time. https://www.callies.com/catalog/product/nissan-rb26/

Just leave it to a pro mate, the quality of the hone is critical to ring seal and while they can look fine there's a lot more to it than that. https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10585

Yeah, Maxspeeding rods will be fine but you'll have to check the lengths and big / small ends for size.