Komdotkom

I suspect that's who it's aimed at. Just to be clear, I don't have any cooling issues; I've spent plenty of time and money on the cooling system and it's got a 3 pass radiator, swirl pot and header tank which bleeds the system of air. I'd be interested to see if there was a temperature difference across the head significant enough to impact mixtures.

I need to pull my engine when I fit a new gearbox and will change over my head drain (Spool) to something nicer and get the plumbing to the dry sump tidied up. I was doing some googling to see what was around and came across this product, according to the video it removes water from the back of the head where it gets hot. https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb-double-head-drain-oil-coolant I'm not aware of this issue with RB's, is this just PRP selling us something we don't need because it looks great?

Thanks for posting, I've got one on the way now and it saves me trying to invent something which won't be 1/2 as good.

I'm going to get some mounts welded to mine to hold a rigid heat shield, I'm not fan of wraps or ceramic coatings. I hope the cast material welds ok, my fabricator reckons it will be fine but we'll see. Still an 8 week lead time on my turbine housing and no ETA on sequential box so I'm not in a rush.

I've got a coppermix twin in one of my cars with a nismo slave, no issues. The caveat is that it runs a Tilton pedal box, not a stock pedal/master.

I've got everything except the turbine housing just waiting to be installed. They tell me late March for the housing but these days it's hard to predict delivery dates. I'm looking forward to the convenience and reliability of V-Bands on everything.

Hi mate, my point was more that reluctors are generally very reliable; probably more than hall sensors particularly with high tooth counts. With that in mind I would suggest that your issue is likely to be wiring/setup based rather than a fault with the reluctor itself. As rpm/triggers increase so does the amplitude of the waveform from the reluctor but as you've pointed out the voltages can be very low at cranking RPM. I think once you run a ref/sync trace on it you'll know what the problem is and how to address it. With respect to tooth counts on crank triggers, I would prefer to run a missing tooth configuration if I'm spending the money anyway so I wasn't happy with the standard 12 tooth from Ross. They make nice gear though, I've got their dry sump setup and it's very well made.

I'm not a Haltech guy, but I'm assuming the software has a scope built in? Do you get interrupted wave forms or just small ones? I sometimes get an error (Motec) from my cam reluctor at cranking speed due to the low tooth count (1) and low cranking speed, but this clears as soon as the engine fires. While I agree with you that the GT101's are cheap, reasonably reliable and easy to replace they are not a great choice for a crank trigger if you are running a decent number of teeth in a missing tooth configuration. I run 60-2 on my car which uses a Ross damper and trigger bracket but a Bosch Motorsport reluctor and a trigger wheel from some joint in the UK. I had to turn the centre bore out to make it fit the Ross balancer, but the stock Ross timing wheel didn't have many teeth or missing teeth. I went this way on the advice of my Motec boffin who has done implementations on Le Mans cars so he's pretty switched on.

Speaking of stock issues, no reverse rotation housings available until March at the earliest for the G30's. I blame Artec, everybody got on board and now I can't get a turbo. Talk about first world problems.

Southern hemisphere, needs reverse rotation.

Looks tops, nice to see a picture that isn't straight form Artec. I'll be interested to hear how you go with that front stud, looks like a bastard. Mine is en route from Brisvegas to Melbourne now, but reverse rotation G30 turbos are out of stock. FFS.

The guy in motorsport builds on here with the crazy R32 4 door has just got one and I've got one on order.

I'm putting a G30-770 on one of my cars and need a manifold. Initially I was going to get a Sinco but they are too busy to take my order, so I will have to look elsewhere. I'm not a fan of 6Boost, so the only other option I can see is an Artec. Or Hypertune but I'm not sure if they are worth the price. The Artec looks nice but I want to add EGT and EMAP so will have to weld bungs on it which will be fun on cast. Any other options I'm missing? V-Band turbo and wastegate

Sorry mate, I binned most of the stock HCR32 stuff in the last shed purge. I thought there might have been a loom floating around but it all went in the bin.

I might have a complete HCR32 loom in the shed if you want it.

I've just ordered a G30-770 for mine, I'll let you know.

Great build mate, not much left to upgrade now. I'm just waiting for the billet VR38/4wd/Spaceframe/Active areo updates which are the logical next step.... Looking forward to your feedback on the Bosch ABS.

But you aren't a Lebanese gangster/bikie and customer of Maatouks. IPRA needs to be a factory block, no aftermarket blocks allowed unless your name is Ray. No special production blocks either, so you can't run a reproduction SBC block. There's a bloke who has cast a 6 cyl K series head for the old L28 from 240Z. It's $20k, but pretty awesome.

It's whether people want the bling of the billet, since you are at a similar price point you may as well go all the way. The other real issue is the head, since everything below it is now aftermarket and optimised the limiting factor becomes the head with its 40 year old design. Someone needs to 3D print a mould for a K series with 2 extra pots on it.

It will be a difficult product to sell in Australia I think. The price point will have to be $6-7k and work with a wet sump, otherwise you'd just get a billet block at $13k ish. The RB also has a less robust crank compared to a 2J, so do you design your aftermarket block around a billet crank which doesn't have the same inherent issues as the factory crank? I'd love to see a taller deck cast block setup for a billet crank which could be purchased as a package from Dart.

I just run R32 ABS knuckles with GT101's in the hole, perfect fit. I knocked 1/2 the teeth off the ABS rings to keep the count under control, GT101's being a bit shit.

f**k, solid update!

I'd be interested to see what you did with the slave cylinder and bearing, why do people not use the standard item? Is it just the overall height is wrong? I'm about to do a cut and shut bellhousing conversion for one of these (if I ever get time)

Talking about valve springs in these terms is problematic. Valve spring pressures are measured at the seat, and on the nose of the cam (max cam lift). Two different springs with the same seat pressure don't necessarily have the same pressure on the nose, and vice versa. Like spring rate vs wheel rate when discussing suspension = apples vs oranges There are so many factors to valve float, seat pressure is barely half the story. Heavy springs will generally help with valve float but they are not always the best way to skin that particular cat and always cost power.

That's interesting, thanks for posting the outcome.