Komdotkom

I was doing some data stuff on my car which is also dry sumped and we didn't want the engine running, so used a Subaru cam belt (15km long) and a dry sump mandrel on a power drill. This allowed us to spin the pump independently of the engine and log some data, and the drill can be located in a convenient location without some poor bastard on his back under the car. Perhaps you could do this and see if there's any other weird shit going on? Overall oil pressure isn't your problem, so it's leaking out or you have a faulty solenoid. Alternatively there's something mechanical dragging on the gear, as above it's got nothing to do with valve springs.

While I think you've got SFA chance of actually getting money off them, I would hope that they would offer a significant discount on future entries. Despite the event not running in a competitive sense, I don't think the costs to the organisation will be much lower so from their point of view I don't think it will be viable to hand over any cash.

Is there also rumblings about partial refunds for competitors this year? I can only imagine the money which has gone down the drain for no event this year.

This is my single biggest issue with tarmac rally, the rules change far too often; it's a great way to alienate competitors. Perhaps I've got a different perspective because most of the racers I know are in NC or IPRA and rule changes seldom happen, but it gives people certainty about where they are going and the cars they are building. I'm certainly not saying these categories have the rules correct, IPRA in particular, but given the cost of competitive vehicle construction to a reasonable standard nobody wants to re-build a car to keep up with regular rule changes.

Do you reckon Motorsport Australia will try and dial the rules back a bit to slow the cars down? Or will they just go back to AASA?

And then? I'm pretty close to ordering an HGT for mine.

They make great power too, a mate has a 20B S4 RX-7, but even used motors are fetching huge dollars now. But they don't sound like a 4 rotor. I've always wanted to this to my 240z but I've already got enough projects.

Why no quad rotor? Twice as reliable. Perhaps. But epic sound!

The elephant in the room here is the $25k gearbox to go with a $500 motor. As someone who has spent an unwise amount of money on an RB20 to make it semi decent, build a dirty 30 and enjoy life.

Thanks Geoff, there's not much information around about these turbo's your input is invaluable.

Would you run the G30-770 with the T4 1.06 twin scroll housing instead of the .83 V band on a built RB25?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-block-an10-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30 Not a bad bit of gear, I'm using one with my dry sump no issues.

That's going to be hard to get right. You're doing very different calculations so the resolution available in the ECU will be critical. You will need to spend a lot of time making sure that your driven wheel speed matches your front wheel speed, I suspect that you'll need a lot of numbers after the decimal point for this to read correctly.

Yes, just the stock ABS sensor hole (shims needed to get correct sensor clearance) and then I chucked the tone ring in the rotary table and knocked off every second tooth in the mill. You need to have an ECU which can do different wheel speed calculations on either end of the car, I'm not sure what you are running but Motec does it. I don't have much experience with the other brands. On the rear I just run unmodified tone rings because the teeth are larger and further apart which works for GT101's. It's worth noting that GT101's get a bad wrap largely on missing tooth setups, which they are shit at. On constant tooth setups I've not had any dramas with them but I always have spares ready to go just in case.

I use the factory ABS holes and run GT101 style hall sensors on the ABS rings. Due to the high tooth count and low diameter I've reduced the number of teeth by 50%, still much better than wheel studs. This works fine with my Motec setup, I use the rear ABS sensors for rear wheel speed.

Not much, 343kw

I've got a Plazmaman Pro Series, no issues. IAT's are usually about 10C higher than ambient

Thanks mate, I'll have a look at Fast. Looking good, white is an excellent choice. Mine is black and you can't see shit in the engine bay. No tower legs on the cage? Your cages seem to have massive braces between the main hoop and the front leg, how do you go getting the seats in there? It certainly looks like a stronger option in the case of a roll over, I don't see any cages like that over here. Coming to Victoria for any events? I'm doing reliability testing (sprints) at the moment for new engine and dry sump but might get to Snowy River or GTR later this year if I get my shit together.

What's your plan to demonstrate the build date of your car Ben? Given that the plates don't have the actual build date on them is it acceptable to quote a website as proof of manufacturing date? My chassis number is in the 1900's so it's well and truly in the first production run but I'm a bit unclear on what constitutes 'proof' of the manufacturing dates.

I've just used the BMRS braided hose for my dry sump setup, although it's expensive it's perfect for turbo drains because it's so much more flexible than the teflon braided Speedflow or imitators. There's no way I would have done some of my lines in normal braided but BMRS in -16 bends like a dream without kinking. Marcos at The Race Shop can hook you up, or MSCN in Sydney.

A single EGT is a great tool for setting the correct timing with E85. Mine sits just after the turbine outlet in the dump. I agree that individual EGT's is ideal for injector fine tuning, but most people CBF'd with the expense or hassle. If purchasing a new manifold you'd be mad not to have EGT bungs installed though.

Mine runs in the high 800C range at max RPM and is about 650 at idle. Measured with Motec EGT

So in summary, it seems that without divided housings and a serious lack of real world data on RB's the G Series is a bit of a flop. I love this quote about the Precisoins "they are about as fragile as a coke addicted supermodel girlfriend." I suppose it's back to EFR's then with low quality casting and high price tags.

The Sainz bar is the vertical(ish) brace for the front leg. The bend in the front leg makes them weaker so they put the extra bar in there to help in roll overs. They're great for strength but I've got deep seats with big wings in mind and it's an ordeal for my partner in crime to get out. He's 6'2" and 120kg though.... Thanks for the info on the Samsonas, I'll contact them and get an actual price.

Righto, you must have got a pretty good deal. There's only a couple of thousand difference in the pricing I did.