Komdotkom

I've got a Plazmaman Pro Series, no issues. IAT's are usually about 10C higher than ambient

Thanks mate, I'll have a look at Fast. Looking good, white is an excellent choice. Mine is black and you can't see shit in the engine bay. No tower legs on the cage? Your cages seem to have massive braces between the main hoop and the front leg, how do you go getting the seats in there? It certainly looks like a stronger option in the case of a roll over, I don't see any cages like that over here. Coming to Victoria for any events? I'm doing reliability testing (sprints) at the moment for new engine and dry sump but might get to Snowy River or GTR later this year if I get my shit together.

What's your plan to demonstrate the build date of your car Ben? Given that the plates don't have the actual build date on them is it acceptable to quote a website as proof of manufacturing date? My chassis number is in the 1900's so it's well and truly in the first production run but I'm a bit unclear on what constitutes 'proof' of the manufacturing dates.

I've just used the BMRS braided hose for my dry sump setup, although it's expensive it's perfect for turbo drains because it's so much more flexible than the teflon braided Speedflow or imitators. There's no way I would have done some of my lines in normal braided but BMRS in -16 bends like a dream without kinking. Marcos at The Race Shop can hook you up, or MSCN in Sydney.

A single EGT is a great tool for setting the correct timing with E85. Mine sits just after the turbine outlet in the dump. I agree that individual EGT's is ideal for injector fine tuning, but most people CBF'd with the expense or hassle. If purchasing a new manifold you'd be mad not to have EGT bungs installed though.

Mine runs in the high 800C range at max RPM and is about 650 at idle. Measured with Motec EGT

So in summary, it seems that without divided housings and a serious lack of real world data on RB's the G Series is a bit of a flop. I love this quote about the Precisoins "they are about as fragile as a coke addicted supermodel girlfriend." I suppose it's back to EFR's then with low quality casting and high price tags.

The Sainz bar is the vertical(ish) brace for the front leg. The bend in the front leg makes them weaker so they put the extra bar in there to help in roll overs. They're great for strength but I've got deep seats with big wings in mind and it's an ordeal for my partner in crime to get out. He's 6'2" and 120kg though.... Thanks for the info on the Samsonas, I'll contact them and get an actual price.

Righto, you must have got a pretty good deal. There's only a couple of thousand difference in the pricing I did.

Good progress mate, are you putting Sainz bars in? I've goth this configuration in mine and you need to be a contortionist to get out of the damn thing with winged seats. What are you planning for a gearbox? I've been looking at PPG dog sets but kind of think I should just get a Holinger. I'm still waiting to get mine back from having the dry sump fitted, it was supposed to be finished before Christmas but the Motec boffin has been on holiday so hopefully back on the rollers next week.

Oddly it seems they only do a single divided housing in the G30 and G35 range (T4 1.06). No much use for a smaller displacement engine which could make good use of the added response from a split housing.

Or any G series for that matter. It's like no one ever puts them on RB's

Hi Geoff, the manifold would be a single scroll V-Band, I wasn't aware that there was any other option for these. Talking to the local sales team who sell these they have recommended a G30-770 instead of a 900, they feel that in the G30 configuration they don't have enough turbine to spin the 900 compressor. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.

I'd be interested to hear peoples thoughts on the merits of G30-900 vs G35-900 on a built 2.7. It appears that the compressor, CHRA and comp cover are identical, just a different turbine and housing. I'm not looking to make 500kw and would like good response on the street, it seems to me that the G30-900 would be a good option, but I have a niggling concern that I might be trading off a reasonable amount of top end for very little transient/low rpm response. The engine is fully built but runs hydraulic lifters so max rpm is probably 7500

Interested to hear about this shifter, did you really pay $1k for it or do you have a connection for a more competitive price? https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/short-shifter-5-speed-gearbox-skyline-r33-r34-gts

VQ37 and six speed. Cheap in the states and with a set of JWT cams will easily eclipse and S54 in power, reliability and torque. Not to mention you get rid of front axle weight and gain better ratios in the gearbox at the same time. Add a turbo and 350kw reliably is very easy to achieve without any other supporting mods.

Good info mate, I'll certainly talk to my fabricator about it. My mate with the 30DET had the same issue until he got the air bleed size right. Who would have thought, an RB spitting oil everywhere - what a f**king surprise. Got any plans for oil de-aeration? I was going to get an Oberg welded to the top of the tank similar to what the NASCAR guys do to break up the bubbles, not perfect but better than nothing. I don't know if I can stump up $1500 for a Spintric.

I'm running the same pump, but the Ross kit. A mate who ran a circuit RB30DET had an adjustable bleed from one cam cover, it ended up being about 4mm I think, otherwise totally sealed. Although negative crank case pressure would be nice, I'd be happy just to keep the RB from exploding for a while longer.

Interesting dry sump pan from PRP, quite different to the Ross one with that well in it. I've got the Ross pan and am about to do the lines now, after seeing this I wish I had the PRP pan as it looks much simpler to get it all in there. Did you end up sealing the cam covers completely or do you have a small vacuum bleed in there? Are you measuring crank case vacuum, and what sort of vac are you getting on/off boost? Great work, the car looks fantastic.

You can only highflow in the original housings, I've had Hypergear make a ceramic ball bearing unit for mine with billet wheel and so on. 5. SINGLE TURBO CHARGERS Each turbo charger must use the original manufacturer’s exhaust and compressor housings which must retain all external standard specifications. It is permitted to replace the core assembly including the compressor and exhaust turbine assemblies with a free component in which case only the internal standard specifications of the original exhaust and compressor housings may be modified. The original oil and coolant fittings may be modified only at the turbocharger core. The original waste gate or boost control actuator as fitted to the original turbo charger must be retained. The regs for twin turbo converted to a single specifically prohibit 2 wastegates but the regs for factory single turbo do not.

I can't keep up with the rule changes, they seem to change them every year. Mine is an 89 shell so I suppose I can run in a few classes since mine is fairly standard looking from the outside. It would be nice to have a better turbo and manifold combo though so it doesn't choke the engine. Slightly off topic, reading the regs for EM2 it states The original waste gate or boost control actuator as fitted to the original turbo charger must be retained. Do you read this to mean at the exclusion of all other wastegates, or can I just keep it all in place (welded shut) and run a second wastegate.

Why do you want to run in classic GT? I would have thought you'd be more competitive in EM? I know you have more freedom but some of the stuff running in classic GT is pretty crazy.

1000whp on an american dyno is achievable with a pait of 2860's and 14psi isn't it?

I run a 4.375 in mine, works pretty well and I don't have any major lag issues but it's a built motor with a few fancy bits and pieces in it. My tyre size is 265/35/18 so I could probably go with a 4.6 like Ben but we still do a bit of circuit stuff so need the extra legs.

+1 for Tony at Knight Engines, he built my RB a few years ago and it's a ripper. He's a one man show though so lead times are long, but you know the apprentice hasn't done your head so it's worth the wait. I totally get your trust issues, there's very few people I'll pay to work on my car. With respect to the lifters, cam profiles won't change much from a 26 or Neo, you'll just have to make sure the installed height of the bucket is correct. I'm assuming it's a shim under bucket conversion? Have you looked at a shimless bucket setup to reduce the mass of the valvetrain? The kiwi's have some great cam profiles and quality springs (as opposed to Jap tuner 'shopping list' springs) which will be a decent combo. The guys at Kelfords are happy to discuss what you are trying to achieve - give them a call they have probably worked with a customer on a vehicle that's had the Super Tech conversion.