RB2600

oh! love your build mate and your covers cheers for the heads up. do you happen to have any pics to show how that turned out? it's a stock internal engine. don't really want to pull them out if i don't have to. it's turning smoothly by hand, each bore still has relatively fresh hone marks and i'll comp test it before starting it up as a double check. i suppose the comp test will tell if it was damaged or not. i'll put a restrictor on it while the head's off and see what I can do sump wise (money) to make the car more reliable on the track. are you thinking the plug may have found it's way below the piston? It was a sad sad day from the pictures I saw and the stories that were told. Glad the previous owner has moved on to bigger and better things Definitely keen for some Spring/Summer Sandown action. Will certainly be ready for some track time by then, looking at an oil cooler kit from profab.

So, the arrival of the engine, 22nd May 2013. Upon first look, I wasn't so sure I had received the right engine as the block was painted blue (apparently many rebuilt engines in Japan are painted blue? Someone can clarify) and I didn't remember seeing that in the pictures. Apparently I was wrong, engine number matched up, everything else had matched the description upon later inspection. Rear main seal Crank pulley as you can see here is chipped, not a worry as the last engine provided me with a few spares Just had to quickly check the overall condition of the motor before heading back to uni in the afternoon so began removing all the spark plugs. To my surprise, I found this in cylinder 6. I panicked and was preparing myself for the worst. Didn't have a borescope and couldn't really fish anything out with a magnet so just decided to take the head off to see what the situation was. Since the engine was on the stand, it was much much easier to work on. THANKFULLY upon lifting the head, this was what I was presented with. Nothing compared to the last engine. Was absolutely stocked that there was only very minor damage (next pic) The swirls in the middle of the piston in this pic was just from me fishing around with the magnet. As you can see there is very light scoring on the cylinder wall and only extends for about 10-15mm. However there is that chip on the piston, am hoping that spot won't affect compression too much and won't cause detonation. Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket, coat of hylomar and she's good to go back on.

Painting the engine block, as I now have the engine, I will be giving it a clean and fresh coat of paint prior to installing. Has anybody used VHT engine enamel with good experience? I will be painting the block black as it is currently blue. The website mentions that for proper curing, the part needs to be put in an oven for 20min @ 90ish deg. Was wondering if I will be able to get away with a good long lasting finish if I were to skip this step. The finish I am aiming for is that typically found on the engines that Mine's build. Once again, pictures borrowed from Aki. And a pic from a different engine What are people's thoughts? Is that just a standard engine enamel satin black? Or is that more of a wrinkle black? Wrinkle black only takes 177deg and the engine enamel apparently takes 288deg. I'm certain that the paint of choice for all the covers will be VHT wrinkle black, however I have heard so many mixed opinions on how to achieve the best wrinkle finish. Would it be a matter of spraying 3 or 4 thick almost runny coats with 5min hairdrying time in between? Am desperately wanting this finish - image from Dahtone Racing fb page https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/774826_567775449916495_274031354_o.jpg Image was pretty huge so just clicky clicky.

Was hoping to get some input on a few things that have had me pondering for a while now. - Wheels (White XD9 or Charcoal XD9) - Engine block paint - Cam, timing and coil pack cover paint Starting off with the wheels, I initially was locked into a set of TE37SL 18x10.5 +15, pretty standard stuff. However, the more I looked into the subject, the more I thought, ANOTHER GTR with TE37SL... Not only that, but in my opinion, R33 GTR's look better with deep dish wheels which the TE37 isn't. The decision of XD9s came along quite easily as they're quite close size wise to the 10.5" width and +15 offset of the TE37. The XD9s of discussion here are 18x10 +18. The only thing that bothers me is that they're not a very light wheel, especially compared to the SL's. As you can see in the following link, XD9's are 25.05 pounds (11.36kg) compared to the measly 19.4 pounds (8.8kg) of a standard TE37. Not to mention, Rays claims a 400g weight reduction in the SL's compared to a standard TE37 and the reference size is 18x.10.5 +15, which brings it down to approximately 8.4kg. A total difference in rotational mass of almost 12kg! Regardless, I now have my heart set on the XD9 (unless someone can sway my decision through performance benefit justification) but the choice between white and charcoal is very difficult, particularly on a silver car. I did a little bit of photoshop on my friend Aki's silver R33 GTR which mine will be very similar to, with the carbon end caps on the wing, carbon wing blade and Tomei catback. Aki is a very dedicated R33 GTR fan in Japan and has an excellent example of his own with an awesome blog containing a plethora of info and interesting facts. Anybody that appreciates R33 GTR's or GTR's in general would get a good read from his blog. The end result: Also requested a member on this forum to share a pic of his car which I was aware had charcoal XD9 (yes I know, stalking at it's best). Hope he doesn't mind me posting it here, credit where it's due but I shall not expose his identity unless he chooses to. Don't really have any other pics for side on comparison unfortunately. Tough choice!!

Procrastinating with school work has never been a hard task. One day I decided to give the engine bay some cleaning prior to installing the engine (which I thought was in the not too distant future - little did I know) Before: After: It concerned me a little as to why there is writing on the subframe (possible front end damage) The damage on the passenger side driveshaft was caused by my desperation to get the engine out when the release fork was still in... This one was a no brainer, especially considering how good the exchange rates are: Comes with everything required to install, even flywheel bolts and a release fork boot!

In December 2012 (after much searching), I found an engine on yahoo auctions. It was a rebuilt r34 rb26 bottom end and r33 rb26 head with all gaskets replaced, a Nismo timing belt, Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket. The stock turbos also had adjustable actuators attached and I made a few phone calls, the total cost to have the engine landed in Melbourne was just over $3500, I thought awesome! Everything looked quite fresh in photos and I have this perhaps very naive belief that the Japanese are all honest. So I put my trust in them and made the purchase. Engine getting ready to put into the container: Fast forward to May 2013, I FINALLY got the engine! After lots of hassling the middle man importer and chasing things up! Once I got the engine home, I went straight away to justify my trust in the Japanese. More on that later. Whilst waiting for the engine to arrive, I was not prepared to waste any time or money that I had saved in purchasing the shell and the engine for a good price. Basically, I was prepared to fork out for a running R33 GTR so this left me with some "goodies money" Tomei Ti Expreme catback: Mine's front pipe pro (strangely enough, this item did not come with a Mine's badge or box or instructions of any sort as I had expected. I did make the purchase from Jesse Streeter and the item looks exactly the same as the pictures I found on the internet so that's good enough for me) I also bought a 3" test pipe off a fellow here and plan on tacking a few brackets on to bolt the stock heat shield on. I musn't have thought it was picture worthy, hence why the following space is empty. Not long after the exhaust setup was sorted, these arrived in the mail! (-9/GT-SS) Ordered them from Kudos with the bits required for install. Excuse me if I'm uploading multiple photos of the same item, I get so excited when parts arrive! The turbo decision was difficult, but in the end it came down to being realistic with what I wanted to use the car for. I've been in R33 and R34 GTR's with 300rwkw-320rwkw (all on RPM dyno). These are capable of that and more (especially on E85 which is highly likely in the near future). As I said, I would really like this engine to last and hopefully keeping the power level around the 300rwkw mark will achieve that. Along with the weight reduction that I have planned for the car, it should be fast enough for me. Hence, -9's. Part number for the Garrett 1 bar actuators if anybody requires confirmation: To be continued

Lol nah bought it from another member here in Vic. Yepp, block has gone to a friend to use as a coffee table and I've kept some parts as memorabilia. Already have an engine for it, details will be up shortly!

So now that things are moving along nicely, it's a good time to post this build thread up. Purchased this Silver 1997 Series 2 R33 GTR back in August 2012 off a forum member, acknowledging that it had a blown engine. To what extent, I did not know. Was told by the owner at the time that the spark plug in cylinder 1 had snapped, front turbo was gone and lots of smoke at Sandown. The rest of the car looked to be in good condition so I bit the bullet and made the purchase. I bought the car for a very decent price so that left a few doors open in terms of what I wanted to do engine wise - rebuild or 2nd hand stocker. All to be determined after investigating the extent of damage. The goal is to participate in half a dozen track days per year with hill runs at least once a week. It has been over 3 years since I last went to Winton. I plan to keep power levels relatively conservative, as much weight reduction as possible without cutting and hopefully that will keep me occupied till I finish uni. Would like to show some appreciation to Dad for helping out whenever I need a second man and the girlfriend for being the patient, supportive and understanding woman she is. Hopefully when it's all up and running they will be enjoying it just as much as I do. A couple of photos prior to my ownership: First morning after getting the car home. Had to test fit the gear knob even though the car wasn't going anywhere: Being the eager me, I got to work straight away to investigate into what happened: This didn't look good at all - it was at this stage I knew I needed another engine and began looking: Cleaning the car made me feel better (no it didn't): Once again, the ricer in me came out, collecting some all show no go parts: Thank you to the mrs for the Nardi 330mm deep corn wheel: And the JJR carbon wing blade: So I had this stupid idea that it would be easier to get the engine out the bay with the head off. Not true, I was making a lot more work than necessary for myself: Everything looking normal: At last! Head off: The problem cylinder: Engine damage at it's finest: NOTE: For anybody trying to pull an engine from a transmission with a pull type clutch, don't bother until you've separated the pin from the release fork. It's not gonna happen. It will move a few centimetres but no further. Here you can see the pin on the bottom and the fork on the left of the input shaft. Once they were apart, it was a matter of prying between the engine and transmission: On the topic of engine damage.....

Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate, comes with flywheel, new flywheel bolts, release bearing and clutch fork boot too - just under $1600 at the current exchange rate. Jesse Streeter. You're welcome.

please don't tell me you bought that nismo boost gauge a couple of months back from yahoo auctions. i was fuming when i lost the bid >.< but, regardless, very nice work!!

Bought -9s, mines front pipe, 3" test pipe, tomei ti catback, nismo twin plate and greddy profec b spec 2. Still yet to buy pfc but its just a matter of time. The car came with Racepace cam gears so I'll put them onto the new engine, which should arrive from Japan in about a months time. Suspension, brakes, diffs etc will be attended to once money starts flowing again. The car is actually a very nice example, went to see a lot of 33s before buying this one. The others were all very tired and this one seemed to be the most genuine.

but yeah, then the 19s have the wierd spokes can never win..

Oh cheers for the comparison pic, see the bronze actually looks pretty good there

Yeah Alvin, bought Bel's old car. For me, bronze is a little bit hit and miss on silver. Took a pic in japan of a white 33R with bronze xd9 and looked epic though! I kept trying to convince Brandon to sell me his LM GT4s but I think that'll never happen lol Gunmetal XD9s do look nice on silver as well actually, there was a pic of one at Sandown on my comp but the angle of the pic didnt display the wheels very well. I'll have a tinker on PS again to see what it'll look like. Was originally quite firm on either TE37SL resprayed black or black LM GT4. But now the more I look at it, seems like 33Rs look better with some dish which both of these wheels tend not to have much of..

White Work XD9 on silver 33GTR work well? Had a little fiddle around on PS before cos I couldn't find any other silver 33 gtr with white xd9's. My car looks 95% similar to this car. Excuse the front lip as I don't know how to use photoshop.

^Have a friend running GT-SS at 310rwkw @ 18psi (RPM dyno) approx 90-92% inj duty cycle he said. Car has been tracked many times. Fuel system and AFMs are stock. I have the tendency to go down the same route - retain stock fuel system and AFMs But I'm concerned about the high injector duty cycle as my car unlike his will see some street and hills use with different temperatures and varying loads. I also have -9, RPM cam gears, stock dumps, Mine's front pipe, 3" test pipe, 3.5" Tomei Ti catback and PFC. So all in all, is 90% injector duty considered safe? Accounting for any spikes that may occur. I know my friend's car is a pretty good example of it's reliability at that level, but would just like some opinions with other guys running -9's who run the car on the street and track as well.

Hi Bel, I tried texting you last night with no reply. Came across this thread to confirm my assumption! Congrats! Not sure if you've changed your number or perhaps too busy spending time with your new love haha I have an engine on the way from Japan and have been filling the spare room with an abundance of parts in the mean time so rest assured the car will be back in action soon. I should have the car running by late July, so perhaps we can organise for these babies to have a date Kindest regards Michael

Hey man, I'm the guy that bought a test pipe off you a couple months ago. So sorry to hear about your loss. Hope you have insurance on it and hopefully the person or people that did it will be caught. I remember you lived pretty close to the main road, perhaps check to see if any shops around there have cameras that would happen to point towards the road and see if cops are willing to check the footage between the time you stated. Best of luck wih it man.

Ouch to the dude in the stagea that clipped a gutter last night at prinny. Looked nasty...

super autobacs in tokyo bay. they've got a decent range of wheels, plenty of recaros, brides, takata harnesses, some GTR hyper rev mags, some nismo gear, aisles of air fresheners, rear view mirrors, defis, pretty much the works.

Jimmy, I was initially denied entrance to the Nismo omori workshop too. With the little amount of Japanese I spoke at the time, I was able to have a little conversation with Takayuki san. By showing interest in their products and making a few purchases and getting the mrs to seduce him, we were allowed in. But I think what made him change his mind was asking if I was allowed to take some pics of the workshop and taking an interest in the cars in there. Try to go during a quiet time as well, because he had a quick peek outside to check that nobody was around and proceeded to lock the front door and guided us to the workshop. Hope that helps.

should be the 18x9.5 +12 omori factory spec still for sale. around 63,000yen per wheel.

Item: R34 GTT tail lights (Also fits R34 GTR) Condition: Excellent condition Price: $300 ONO Location: Mill Park, VIC Contact: 0425 354 542 Sold the car with Nismo LED tail lights so these are just sitting around doing nothing. Pick up in Melbourne preferred but can post if needed.

someone organise a genuine gtr engine hose kit group buy already!

Good work on the build mate. Look forward to seeing results with the 9.5:1 comp pistons. Should be a good thing considering everyone complains about lag with -5's or bigger turbos on stock displacement.