lotsalag

hope u get it all sorted mate, even if some stuff wasnt necessary for rwc at least u didnt get reamed, ive heard of some people getting bent over for all sorts of stuff come rwc time

id have to agree with GTScotT, i remember one gtr with twin tomei turbos and it looked horribly laggy (5.5k) for the 350kw or so it made!! they were done to death on evos and know all evo owners shy away from them, one sr i saw with tomei arms had a similarly laggy poor result. id stick with the tried and tested garretts imo

the 34 that had that setup in it had a hollinger dogbox in it, still a heap of shit tho hahaha

i knew a gtr with twin 3240's, still a 2.6 mind u. comes on about 6-6.5k from memory it made almost 400awkw on only 18psi lol. repsonse and twin 30anything shouldnt be in the same sentence. didnt see it wound up in the end tho.......

white smoke and running rough usually means water in the combustion chamber. im worried when u fixed ur leaky blow off valve, boost went up, u took it for a spin and possibly blew the headgasket. once u left it parked with the cooling system under pressure coolant has leaked in the cylinder where the headgasket has blown causing the white smoke u mention. now if it wont start, theres a chance u may have hydraulic locked the engine and bent a conrod or done similar major damage, try turning the engine over by hand with sparkplugs out and then do a compression test. hope its not bad news for u tho

What sort of power is ur gtr making? U sure ur not just pushing them too hard and hence durability is suffering? Seen a pair of -7s last barely 5000km on a gtr making 330+awkw, and yes this was at about 20psi or so as well. But im talking just getting smokey and losing efficiency, not physically bent shafts or anything of that nature, well nothing easily audible anyway.

Yes the diaphragm is inside the actuator. Did u buy it brand new? i doubt u did. Either way u cant assume anything is ok, if u overlook a potential cause u might be chasing this problem forever. lol It wont take long to see if the actuator holds pressure anyway. Seriously tho, have u had it a workshop? or had it tuned at all with the highflow? tune wont cause this, but im surprised ur car hasnt either a) blown up b) running like a bag, hitting fuel cut etc all the time c) maybe its simply hitting R&R and this is having a massive effect on boost control

Ive never ever heard of or seen rich mixtures causing higher boost or better spool. Only thing to do with fueling i have seen help spool/response is a stuffed fuel pump causing dangerously lean mixtures.

No idea what the specs r so im useless But if all u want is better spool/low/mid etc Wind that inlet cam gear over 10degrees advance, even 20 if u want, check for valve to piston clearance tho Ive seen response improvement of 500rpm on a -10 equipped rb26, from cam timing alone Obviously need a tweak on the exhaust gear too, but cams that size with 20degrees advance on the inlet i doubt will die too much up top. Dont expect to go too far with the exhaust gear tho, maybe 6 degrees or so max. Good luck with it.

Computer/tune?! The standard solenoid isnt even hooked up right? R33 boost normally tapers off at the top end, not the other way around. Have u had the car at an experienced workshop yet, or even on a dyno? maybe ur boost gauge is the problem. lol If its doing ur head in so bad, take it to an experienced shop. I know u replaced the actuator, but maybe theres a small hole in the diaphragm, does it hold pressure ok when pressurised?

it wont leak if u pull it out and leave it out why cant u just swap the complete 4wd sump/front diff to the new motor?

Sure its not just contacting the car body/tailshaft/subframe or similar? lol Put something quiet on it, it wont do anything to power, noise will just get u unwanted attention. Varex usually sound like a fart when closed, i have one, but its saved me from the po po many times.

Did u notice if the keyway or crank looked sus when u did the belt?

hook up a fuel pressure gauge and drive it, or take it to a workshop. seen a 32 that was so lean from a dead pump, it wouldnt rev out at all. the guy had still been doing burnouts with it like that, dont ask how then engine survived! LOL checked for fault codes yet? do it first!

Almost outta ideas here, last simple thing u can try......... Get a "new" piece of vac hose, hook it up a known pressure source, why is it not near the turbo outlet as usual(?) u sure that hose to the plenum isnt teed off to something else. Still sounds like a small boost leak in the ressure feed or similar to me. Good luck

leave the thermostat as is long story, but sometimes fitting a higher temp thermostat can help an overheating engine seriously pretty sure u can fit a VL viscous coupling and fan without any issues(burson), yes Nissan viscous coupling was outrageously expensive when i inquired. Fuel gauge issue is new to me, sounds like a sender unit problem i guess, pull it out of the tank and try moving it by hand, see what it does then.

Black hose to the wastegate?! me thinks the way in the pic is the correct way to have it installed Those boost controllers r very touchy and sensitive to set. Does it still have the spring and ball inside it too? I immediately thought this too, but it was doing it with the old stock turbo as well apparantly. Sounds like an issue unrelated to the turbo itself imo. U may try leaving the wastegate full open on the dyno and see what happens, but often if it cant spool down low, it will barely get moving up top either. On the dyno try disconnecting the actuator rod off the actuator arm completely, hold the wategate flap it full shut with a long screw driver/lever and then at about 3000rpm let it go slowly so it can get full open by redline, hopefully then u can see if its still creeping at all. U sure the actuator rod isnt fouling/binding on something and stopping its full range of movement(unlikely on a skyline)?

Battery fumes into intake?! rofl Please ellaborate! Kinda reminds of me of a wrx owner i was on the phone to, who wanted his ""screamer pipe" hooked up to the intake to his turbo" Yes epic LOL I explained u only do that if u want a nice fire in the engine bay and kindly suggested to bring it past and i'll have a look what he meant exactly what we might be able to do for him. He never turned up tho funnily enough! Generic foam in chassis rails wont do squat, but u can get stuff more specific for the job that does apparantly work, off topic either way.

its on the money dont stress now just enjoy it! more than that= new turbo

AFM? check ur ecu for fault codes otherwise yes what bwr suggested as a start at least

if its done it all the time(even with the old turbo) it kinda sounds like a tiny boost leak somewhere, in the signal line perhaps. maybe just replaces any sus looking vacuum lines or maybe all the ones u can see. vac hose is cheap, and most of the standard stuff would be well shagged by now anyway. keep us posted either way. where is ur pressure feed for the actuator picking up from?

correct me if im wrong, but the front thermo is almost a meltdown mode fan, kicks in at approx 103 degrees, ive never heard mine going in the 5 years ive had my 32. many think its an a/c condensor which it isnt either. maybe go back to clutch fan, no thermo can flow as much as that thing.

like this perhaps?!

think about the volume of air a turbo pumps under boost, honestly i cant see an extra half inch of piping will make a noticeable difference to response. bigger pipes equals more (noticable)lag is a myth as far as im concerned. ive been told by someone who should know that the bigger the better full stop! not saying its the rule just relaying what ive been told and understand. besides restrictions stack up/add up over distance, so yes if ur cooler piping was the size or turbo outlet u would have one hell of a restrictive system. anyway, not starting an argument, cos i know there r plenty who will disagree with me, just my opinion.

hehe, at least ur doing it for logical/sensible reasons as for getting rid of em, yes its a mess under there, and its been a while since i had a good look with a plenum off, might have to try and nut it out, or just change all the hoses to save headaches. i had one in there let go, it was an absolute prick to change!