AKW

Just thought I would share with you some shots of the Skyline and around here in the States where I am located. =)

Monochrome much? Lol anyway, nice pictures mate, that looks good.

I think this is the right thread for this, I am sorry. =( Okay, so I recently have had issues with the windows just going out of the car, no power on either side. Now, I have gotten so clever as to buy new switches, which I did. So I have the new switches in, but no power windows and I had to test the power locks just because and, as I thought, they're not working either. So, if there is anything at all that controls the whole door(s) power and you know what is going on PLEASE shed some light. I love power locks, power windows, and a working car. -__-;; My car is a series 1.5 with no amplifier box that I know about.

Okay, I cleaned my AACV and I have cut that back to down the idle. I havn't messed with the ECU just yet BUT I am positive that it wont help the whole problem. What I am experiencing is that the idle when the car is first started and driven is reaching around 3k RPM. IDLING???? That shouldn't be! But you drive her around for awhile and get her all warmed up and cut the key and she will restart idling at around 1.1k RPM. The cold idle is what is killing me! Is there something special I need to do or inspect? I am pretty sure the ECU screw will take care of the little overidle I have on the warmer side, but as for the cool it needs to come down like 2.4k RPM!!!??? This was happening before I cleaned the Valve as well, and I have checked the throttle cable tension which is fine. The screw there is just right. Is there something wrong with the TPS or something? IDK That's why I am here though isn't it? Thanks in advance, AK

Okay, so I KNOW I have a two peice rear panel with the "skyline" lettering on it. I just don't know how to take it apart. Does anyone know how to do that to do the light conversion on them? Because I think that shit is bad ass I just need to know how to get it apart and then I am pretty much set.

Thanks guys. I think I will go ahead and buy it then. I really trust the guy who has it. And 25K miles since last rebuild is I think what he means. He runs his RB25 in an S13 at the track. The stock turbo has been off of it.

Found a local guy who has a stock RB25DET turbo from a series 1 I can local pickup... 400$ installed to my car... Has 25k miles and 2 track passes. No shaft play... What do you guys think?

Dude, the point here is that I need a turbo, not that I need a tune... The seals on this turbo are going bad. I don't need to go overboard... besides, we have a wideband and an SAFCII. The Series 2 engine's turbo sucks... the seals are f**ked and I have no one to rebuild the internals.... so, I need a new turbo. Unless someone has another suggestion? Also, thanks for the help mate... it is just I am a tad bit tired if all that sounded harsh. I am going to bed.. I will be back soon... and a single 800$ turbo isn't cheap. It would be for a "kit" from HKS or something. But an 800$ turbo... not cheap. Oh, and I have the 800 I just want a 700 if possible. Even if it is 1000 f**k it and show it to me.. goodnight. Edit... My car has Tein all the way around it... that has nothing to do with a turbo either...

I would like to know your opinion on what would be the best thing to get off of ebay or otherwise. I have around 700$ *USD* and since I am in the land of Garrett I can get some cheap-er. I am just lost as to which direction to go. I am only looking to push 12-16 pounds of boost really. I have a series 1.5 GTST R33 and it has a FMIC, 3", and a HKS Super Induction intake (AKA the mushroom). If you could be so kind as to link me to some good bolt on turbos or some with a kit to block off water cooling... just something to the sort I would apreciate it.

Thanks a lot man. =)

NISMO DARK GRAY LEATHER Shift Knob 5 Speed Shift Pattern Decal Installation Instructions Fits all Nissan's w/ 10x1.25 thread pitch WITHOUT Reverse lock out ring. -------- I have a series 1.5 Nissan Skyline GTS25T. Just curious if the measurements are right on the thing before I buy it. It is unmodified shifter. The car has the normal one on it. Thanks in advance.

Worked 100% like a charm. Runs a little smoother and the pressure readout is MUCH better. The car is running rich but DAMN the oil just smells completely like gas, is that a REAL big deal like I think it may be?

I got a FRAM Sure Grip Tough Guard PH3682 (I think that was the number, it is in the car) and some Valvoline 10W40 in 5 Quarts. Should work out well. Thanks a lot for all of your help.

I see. Winter then. But some people think it is cold as shit here or something. It isn't. Currently outside it is 96*F and it is like 40% humidity or some shit. QUITE HOT. It gets to around 20*F in the winter here which is a long shot off, it is still summer. So you are telling me my absolute best bet is to use a 10W40 where I live? Because I don't want to keep changing around on this shit. And that 4.3 litres is 4.5 quarts of oil. 4 and a half bottles of oil go into the RB25? Damn son... lol

All right. It is in like 900 mili litre bottles I do believe.

Thanks a lot. So something like 10 weight 40? At the moment I have some 20 weight 50 laying around the house. I am sure that's not the stuff then right? Also, the VG30DETT from the 31 will work with the fuel / oil filter right? Thanks a ton. EDIT: How many quarts does this RB25DET take with no mods, oil tanks or catches?

Well, yes, I guess that would be what I am. Considering I needed the attention to get help. Just like everyone on this forum. Thanks, that really helps me out a lot. I will take that into account mate.

Hmm, I see. Well, these are NOT my mods. The car came this way. Thank you for clearing up a lot of my questions actually. Yeah, I will be able to tune the car SOON! Woohooo! Because I got some more money. But what do you mean I am half way there mate? Is there something else that I need to do? WHAT'S SCHOOL???? Lol dude, honestly, it's over that already. I got your attention that's all I wanted.

That's what I mean man, the gasket was only half present. The gasket was HALF there. It didn't have but half of the gasket on there. The gasket was only partially on it. It was missing half of the gasket. My install, I assure you, has nothing to do with it. But an ECU fault my be a good guess. XXXX

I love this thread BUT I have an issue. My AFM pin is NOT THERE. Yes, I am looking at it the right way as well. I have a 1995 Series 1.5 R33 GTS25T. Any ideas? The pin is f**king missing! But that makes no sense it wouldn't work without a signal! As well, it is the stock ECU!

Okay, no, this isn't about fuel economy entirely although I do get poor fuel economy. When I say overfueling I mean that it is almost stopping due to it. I can drive normal, and I normally do. I only get around 250-300km to a tank. That's terrible. But it is driving like you said, around 2500 3000rpm then change a gear and coast on 80 (50 mph) most all the time if I am going "faster". 97% of the time I am doing this. But even to pass a car I have to drop the car down to second and floor it to get over the 3-4k range. Then I can go in the other gears at those RPMs. If I am in third though, for example, and I build boost at 3k RPM the car will actually bog down, shoot black smoke pretty hard core because I can see it in my mirror, and I will slow down to nothing. I had to actually take the recirc pipe off because if the turbo spools up at all the car will just smoke like hell (black smoke), bog down, and just about stop. It is like the pedal is a soft, but bumpy, break at 3k or boost. But anything that is above 4k is fine but only at 90% to full throttle. I can turbo in 1st and 2nd gear up to 3k flatspot 4k and then since it is jumping up the rev. range so fast it just carries right through it. In the other gears it has to pull through it and it just bogs down and f**king stops. It is really quite annoying and I don't know what is going on. Also, the car has mods. It has a Front Mount Intercooler, Decat, 3" Super Dragger Exaust, and HKS Super Induction Intake. I think it is just sensing a lot more air that is making it in the car but it is going into the pipes for the front mount? EDIT: I replaced all of the sensors with top notch and quality shit. It couldn't have been more than 500km ago. I even replaced the MAF thinking it could have been that but it did no good. It all started doing this when I put the T3 gasket on the car. The gasket when I bought it was only HALF THERE. The guy who had it before me tried to do some goup gasket bullshit as well but it obviously didn't work (duh). So when I did that it began overfueling and acting up..... and that, my friends, is why I made the topic name just this. Because I had a user friendly turbo leak. I am looking at the Apex book for the SAFC II installation on an RB25DET 93.8-95.12. The book has been right up until I get to the air meter where I make the cut instead of the splice for this cable. The book shows the pin for the air meter 7 over from the middle to the right in the top colom. I have found that there is NO pin there. That makes no sense and yes, I am looking at the right diagram the right way, could there be a missprint? I am really confused. Maybe someone else has an SAFC II

Thanks a ton Paul, and yes, I realize this is a stupid post, but it got your attention did it not? Also, I got the O2 sensor replacement and I replaced it about 400 kilometers ago MAX. What is the stuff about a Narrowband though? And slow? I am somewhat confused on this statement. Yeah, I HAVE to stay out of boost, but that means not getting above 3k RPM unless I get it above 4k in 1st and 2nd gear and keep it above it, otherwise or at half throttle, it will overfuel. Does that make sense? AND I have ran into a problem with my SAFC II. I was finally going to connect it today and got all connections made until I got to the Air Flow Meter connections. In the book the pin placement says one thing and then on the ECU pins there is no pin where it says it would be in the SAFC II manual. That's confusing......... Anyone have that problem? Or maybe have a wiring diagram for the ECU that isn't japanese?

LOL I need something man. When I took the damn turbo gasket off the car and had it running with the turbo half off the car the car runs fine, otherwise it runs rich. And even though that's not your call, I really wish I hadn't been born. But seeing as how I have, maybe we could look into this for a temporary fix instead of calling out hasteful lines. Besides, if I am an idiot who spelled you are as "your"? Let's not make this a flame topic, but more along the lines of a suggestion one.

Yeah, so I am wanting to actually MAKE a f**king turbo leak on my RB25DET 2nd edition. I would like to get it tuned but I am short about... IDK, 50$ or so and it is overfueling reading the air mixture, SO I need to find a good, and healthy way, if possible at all, to make a boost leak in my car. This will likely be the ONLY topic on how to create a boost leak and not cure one, lol. Or maybe you have another suggestion, and oh, as I mentioned, I KNOW I need it tuned, but I am short some cash, so don't go shooting that out your ass, I already know it.

Right, and I have already pretty much rounded the car down to BEING a 1.5 as well has everyone else. It is series 1.5 which is grand! The coil pack has igniters, no external amplifier.