benny_bobo

*** CAR SOLD ***

*** CAR SOLD ***

yeh still got..

Video of engine running (with the rattle- been told either conrod bearing or vct cam gear)

Video of engine running (with the rattle- been told either conrod bearing or vct cam gear)

1996 R33 Series 2 Sedan Auto * Series 1 taillights, rear garnish & door trims. 180,000 kms (Gates Kevlar Timing Belt fitted at 100,000km) Damage - dent above passenger rear wheel + rear pod missing Engine – Broken exhaust stud at back of engine Noise - Rod Bearing... Dodgy AFM Earth (haven't checked if ecu or wiring issue – I just ran a ground wire from the afm straight to the battery - works) Fitted Feb 2011... New Nexus Tyres 225-50-R16 Front Strut Bar JJR Full 3" Exhaust (inc 3" dump + hiflow cat) Spitfire Coil packs Slotted DBA Front Rotors + Bendix Premium Pads HICAS Lock bar (Not Fitted) Unregistered - No RWC $3000 Price Drop $2500 Not Stripping For Parts - Don't want to deal with half a car... Located @ Helensvale QLD 4212

1996 R33 Series 2 Sedan Auto * Series 1 taillights, rear garnish & door trims. 180,000 kms (Gates Kevlar Timing Belt fitted at 100,000km) Damage - dent above passenger rear wheel + rear pod missing Engine – Broken exhaust stud at back of engine Noise - Rod Bearing... Dodgy AFM Earth (haven't checked if ecu or wiring issue – I just ran a ground wire from the afm straight to the battery - works) Fitted Feb 2011... New Nexus Tyres 225-50-R16 Front Strut Bar JJR Full 3" Exhaust (inc 3" dump + hiflow cat) Spitfire Coil packs Slotted DBA Front Rotors + Bendix Premium Pads HICAS Lock bar (Not Fitted) $3000 Price Drop $2500 Not Stripping For Parts - Don't want to deal with half a car... Located @ Helensvale QLD 4212

not at this stage

1996 R33 Series 2 Sedan Auto * Series 1 taillights, rear garnish & door trims. 180,000 kms (Gates Kevlar Timing Belt fitted at 100,000km) Damage - dent above passenger rear wheel + rear pod missing Engine – Broken exhaust stud at back of engine (maybe more than 1) Loud Rattle under load (big end bearing?) Dodgy ECU to AFM Earth (haven't checked if ecu or wiring issue – I just ran a ground wire from the afm straight to the battery) Fitted 3 Months ago... New Nexus Tyres 225-50-R16 Front Strut Bar JJR Full 3" Exhaust (inc 3" dump + hiflow cat) Spitfire Coil packs Slotted DBA Front Rotors + Bendix Premium Pads HICAS Lock bar (Not Fitted) $3000 ONO Unregistered Located @ Helensvale QLD 4212

1996 R33 Series 2 Sedan Auto * Series 1 taillights, rear garnish & door trims. 180,000 kms (Gates Kevlar Timing Belt fitted at 100,000km) Damage - dent above passenger rear wheel + rear pod missing Engine – Broken exhaust stud at back of engine (maybe more than 1) Loud Rattle under load (big end bearing?) Dodgy ECU to AFM Earth (haven't checked if ecu or wiring issue – I just ran a ground wire from the afm straight to the battery) Fitted 3 Months ago... New Nexus Tyres 225-50-R16 Front Strut Bar JJR Full 3" Exhaust (inc 3" dump + hiflow cat) Spitfire Coil packs Slotted DBA Front Rotors + Bendix Premium Pads HICAS Lock bar (Not Fitted) $3000 ONO Unregistered Located @ Helensvale QLD 4212

dont know what im doing with the multimeter on what i think is ohms, on top connector pins 1 & 2, throttle closed = 0, throttle open = 1.

So I disconnect the O2 sensor and idle stabilises after about 10 secs... let it run for 5 mins all good. connected O2 sensor again, starts hunting... thought it doesn't use O2 at idle? Or does the ecu think it isnt at idle? check idle sensor? guess I just answered my own question...

runs better with air-con switch on (idle up) when the lights are on (no air-con belt though)

seems to only happen with lights on now. also, turning the steering wheel at idle does not raise revs (idle up), but the ac does. Don't know if that is related at all?

reset the ecu already a few times... doesnt help. and btw, its a s2 sedan... so battery under bonnet.

mine is 1.25v at idle. Worked out why car wouldn't run without afm.. I remembered that about a year ago, the car wouldn't start, spliced the afm ground wire to the battery and the car would run fine. If i disconnect that and just use the ecu afm ground, it wont start.. but if i disconnect the afm AND the negetive ground to the battery, it will run. Idle isnt perfect without afm, but im guessing it would run rich without afm?

What should afm voltage be on idle?

and i just got 275km to the tank.. Its a stock skyline too.

I have a R33 Series 2 Auto, runs fine when cold. Drives fine when warm, but won't idle properly. It will idle at about 700rpm when warm, then it will start dropping to 500rpm and raising to 1000rpm (in Neutral, Park & Drive) The boost gauge shows vacuum (not boost) pulsing between 10 and 20 with the revs playing up. Exhaust note goes deep, runs rich. When the lights are on when its warm it is worse and blows smoke. I've cleaned the AAC, checked the TPS, adjusted idle stop & idle screw etc.. Car stalls when I disconnect the AFM. It runs better when I remove the boost gauge hose off the back of the manifold (letting in more air). Idle stabilized (but lowered to about 400-500rpm) when I disconnected the AAC plug, but now when I do that it stalls. I've checked for leaks, spraying air hose joins with carby cleaner. I've tried banging the ecu with my hand, and it doesn't do anything. I'm thinking the car stalling when disconnecting the afm has something to do with it...

Hey mate, Would you post to Upper Coomera (4209) QLD for $80 inc postage? (Estimated postage $10-$15)