kjb_r33

Problem is that the manufacturers use the customer to do their R & D.

Its not just the crankcase fumes. With an air flow meter, any air that passes through it is going to have the correct amount of fuel added by the ecu. Now if some of that air is dumped, the fuel that was added for the dumped air is still in there, which cause rich spikes ( massive incease in HC's and CO's).

You can get it without removing cluster, as i said, a long extension will get it easily

If it is the peddle box, get you head under the dash with a torch and look up at the peddle box while you press the clutch to the floor. If it is cracked you will see it flexing open at the crack while the clutch is being operated. Two bolts hold the master cylinder to the firewall, they also hold the peddle box, undo the nuts from the master cylinder, take the clevis pin off clutch lever, there is one bolt that goes up to a support behind the dash, long extension on your socket can get that, it should then just come out. Once out just get it welded and reinforced.

heavy duty clutches can cause the peddle box to crack. That would be my guess

Was always my belief that traction bars were fitted on LEAF springs only, meant to stop the leaf spring twisting and then releasing (causing the axle tramp).

Sounds like an input shaft or cluster shaft bearing

where are you?

As stated earlier, there is NO common ground for the injectors, thay are fed battery voltage from the EFI relay, the ECU turns the injectors on by grounding them. You should have battery voltage to BOTH sides of the injectors with the key on, engine off. Should be battery voltage all the way to the ECU unless engine is cfranking or running, then it should flash on and off and ecu grounds them./

where are you?

Driving it like that its not going to last long. The 7 on the stock gauge one my series one r33 is actually 1 bar, 14 psi. Knock boost back and keep it under 7000 rpm

But, moving the cam gear in relation to the crank (which is`what you do when you adjust cam timing) will also change the point of ignition timing as its the cam that drices the CAS

Stanley knife, cut along the hose where it fits onto the steel pipe from the tank, slips off easy. Hoses should be replaced anyway, i just done mine.

Fitted sard yesterday, went into work this morning and did a quick dyno run. Bumped up pressures and ended up acheiving AF's of 11.5:1, at .8 bar. Dyno is a dyno dynamics, but a very basic one. Has no shootout mode and therefore no corrections. Last time i had the car on it it reached 140 rwkw's (ramping from 80K's in 4th gear). This time 150, but i have changed the cam gears, fuel pump and reg. I think the readings are conservative to what it would be in shootout mode though, as a comparison a VT commodore 3.8l hits about 65-70 rwkw on this dyno. Power and torque curves look sweet though. I realise that i have to replace injectors ASAP, am working on it. Green one is before cam gears, blue one today. (date is wrong on computer, dyno gets used probably once every 3 months).

Ive got a 33, a 32 and a tt300zx. I think the ZX is a great car to drive, but it took me 2 hours the other day to change the cam gears on my R32, that was belt and harmonic balancer off. Took me 5 hours to do the timing belt on the z. as i said though, its a awesome car. Choice has to ultimatly be yours. I just paid 9500 for mine (wifes actually), 93 model, 72000k's, 2 seater, leather interior, FMIC, all adjustable aftermarket suspension, ABS, climate and cruise control, DVD and TV, 2 oil coolers with remote mounted filter, 18" wheels and so on, there is cheaper good Z's for sale.

I beleive an 044 is an out of tank pump

you have pm

10 inches from flange where the big oring is to the bottom of the 040. If you need ta talk about it, give me a call on 0404336106. I fitted mine on the weekend, took about an hour. Only to glad to talk you through it. Ken

to me it looks ok, compression test should be within 10% of each other, cylinder leakage should be no more than 20% (one is borderline). You have to keep in mind that with the cylinder leakage, most of the pressure goes through the ring gaps. As sydneykid said, it should be done wet as well, even a wet compression test will tell you if its rings or a valve sealing problem.

what he said.

The 100% has been reached using both the standard eprom, and now a reprogrammed chip. O2 feedback (closed loop) does turn off underload, but any changes made to the original mapping will be a broad change, across the WHOLE of the fuel map, ie 10% richer or leaner. I have now put a 040 bosch pump in and also changed the filter this morning, checking flow and pressure before and after the filter change, no real change to pressure but a slight increase in flow (.2 liter per minute), Car does not seem to be leaning out as much but im still waiting for my sard Rising rate reg to show up, was hoping it would be here last week.

i beleive it was changed just before i bought the car, about 4 months ago, but i will change it today anyway, just to eliminate that as a cause

Fitted an 040 this afternoon, damn sard hasnt showed up yet. Just changing the pump seemed to make some improvement, but im still hitting max duty cycle with my injectors. Hopefully the reg will fix it. At what power do the standard fuel system, (pump and injectors) normally max out?

Castor will cause the car to pull to the side with the least positive, in your case the right. This can be used to compensate for and counteract road camber, which has a natural tendencie to cause the car to pull to the left, so it should track almost straight ahead.