kjb_r33

Check your plugs, if was running rich they take no time at all to foul up, then they will run like crap.

Simon, while this is true, the ECU will make adjustments in closed loop to maintain the correct A/F ratios under cruise, it does also have a bearing on the entire fuel map. The long term fuel trim refers to this adjustment. Fuel maps will be altered based on the amount of trimming the ECU does during normal driving to acheive correct ratio in closed loop. If long term trims are altered say 5% to the rich side, its 5% right through the entire fuel map, not just the closed loop areas. These long term trim adjustments are maintained in the ECU until such time as battery is disconnected and trims are returned to factory settings (0 or BASE). They LEARN this to compensate for alterations to things like altitude, ambient air temp and engine wear, even driving styles.

I believe they can book you for unnecessary acceleration and can also send ticket through mail.

Got mine today, THANKS. Should have actually been yesterday but i wasnt home when TNT called. Have left feedback

Hey, quote for front and rear for a 93 r32 gtst. Price for front and price for rear thanks. Just the slotted.

Bonnet isnt as problem and i can live with the oil filler cap, 2 clamps and its off. I think it even looks better. Intake temps have dropped a little as well, i monitor those with one of those jaycar temp probes.

I have this http://home.aanet.com.au/nistune/ Uses factory ECU, therefore retains closed loop AND knock capabities. $400 for software and daughter board. Awesome stuff.

Got my 120 degree intake made up yesterday, fitted it today, seems a hell of a lot more responsive (had to be careful, pissing down out here). Need to get my BOV adjusted properly yet, every now and then when pulling up it stalls, and yes its a plumb back. What is the best way to adjust it? 1st pick shows with original. 2nd pick shows both side by side, alot of piping taken out. 3rd pick shows new pipe fitted up. Even looks alot better. Photos were taken with my phone, i left my camera at home, did the job at work.

If you changed your wastegate actuator, make sure waste gate is completely closed.

I went and bought on of those $40 temp readouts from jaycar and fitted it into the rubber coupling at the throttle body. Its amazing how much temps vary. Mild cruise and it can climb, low air flow and heat soak gets it. Open it up abit and temps drop. Sitting in traffic it sky rockets. Highest ive seen it with heat soak engine off was around 80 c. Under full boost (15psi) it drops fairly quickly, usually to within 5 degrees or so of ambient (compared to skyline ambient temp sensor). Go back to cruise it starts to rise again. EDIT: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0807/article.html

I'm after the diagnostic plug from a r32,r33. Anyone got any laying around from a front cut or anything? Need two.

Your in the right area for the rb25, not real sure with the 26 but the 25 is in the block right about where your finger is, right behind the water pump.

I had a similar problem with my 33, even went as far as getting head pressure tested, put it all back together and it still done it. Took thermostat out, got a mirror and looked in through thermostat housing to find that my water pump had NO blades left, had all rusted off.

this guy sells them here http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/realtime.shtml usb or serial

Got mine, look the goods, will fit them later.... THANKS

dynoed yesterday, dyno dynamics dyno, no shootout mode, pissy little fan. Got 204 with a VERY rich safe tune at this point, too rich actually, hit 10.5 reading with a true wide band sensor, (6 wire tech edge). That was at 15 psi., ambient temp of 30 c, no pinging.

Crushing guns stopped people getting shot didnt it? on, no wait, it didnt...

Mate, you still got buckets and shims?

always something you forget, running a 040 pump. thanks guys. edited first post

Just after a ball park figure as to what i can expect at the rear wheels with the following mods on my r32 RB20. Hybrid copy intercooler. Currently running an r34 turbo with rb20 waste gate actuator and turbo smart boost controller, will be fitting a GCG 450 HP rb25 hi flow on friday. split dump, going into a huge 88mm stainless front pipe, standard cat and 2 7/8" cat back. Adjustable cam gears set at +3 inlet, -5 exhaust (crank Degrees) GTR injectors Z32 AFM 040 fuel pump Intercooler piping over radiator is wrapped but am getting the 120 degree pipe made up on weekend (intercooler to TB) homemade CAI with enclosed pod. Been monitoring intake temps at throttle body with jaycar temp sensor (reads -50 to 150 C) and temps have been only a couple degrees hotter than ambient at 14PSI. Am running Nistune daughter board which makes standard ECU fully programmable, also tech edge wideband sensor to monitor A/f ratios to which i have also wired up a 3 bar map sensor to monitor boost pressures through data logging. Just after a ball park figure. Thanks.

Paid. Details PM'd

Count me in r32 gtst

Clutch pedal boxes crack all the time, when you disengage clutch the crack opens up and you lose travel, but wont see the crack until you push pedal down.

i done mine last weekend, i NEVER want to do that job again...

heres mine