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bri73y

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Everything posted by bri73y

  1. Now on Ebay guys...... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140756804341?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  2. I'm assuming the fuel setup was all in perfect working order when last used ? How long ago was it last used ? How old are the pumps ? Thanks.
  3. OK guys, plenty of looks but no offers... So what is a complete leather interior worth ?? Try me.
  4. Well I already have a donor of sorts now don't I.......... I even know someone who could possibly do a build thread from start to finish to show off some of their skills.. That is ofcourse if we go Barra!!
  5. No decision as yet, however I'll know which way I'm going with the motor by this time tomorrow. Full Race - No not as yet, it may not matter what they recommend soon.... I know what you mean about graphs and the difference between how they look and how they perform. I've got a graph here somewhere from when I upgraded from -7's to -5's. The -7's win with area under the curve and response on the graph, but in real life when doing tarmac rallies, motokhana's and circuit work the -5's killed them. You wouldn't think that by just going off the graphs as the -5's only get infront at the very top of the dyno graph where the lines crossover.
  6. OK, here's a curve ball for you all. I've just been offered a built 4.0l engine out of a FG Typhoon. It's running 10:1 compression and has a whole heap of Atomic gear through it. Comes with a T5z gearbox as well. Motor and box are cheaper than the RB I was building.......... Any thoughts ?? Anyone had experience on this side of the fence ??
  7. You don't mention condition or k's travelled. Any leaks or similar? What are the standard spring rates that come with the shocks and are the shocks valved for them or for the 12kg springs? Thanks. Any pics?
  8. No, it's the exhaust wheel that lets go.
  9. Yes, done deal. Always wanted an R34 and whilst this may not be a GTR it doesn't matter as I'll just refer to it as my 34 and say nothing more! Haha. This one was basically given to me so don't worry about cost, and it's for now just something I want to build for MRA, Irace etc and not worry about a bit of argy bargy like I would do in my 32. I'm trying to make it as different as I can to my 32 so it's a totally different experience to drive, hence single turbo and rwd and anything else I can do to make it different. Why have two cars essentially the same? Same to be said for the build cost, my 32 is no expense spared (plenty wasted) but this will be budget. It will be interesting to see what gives me more grief over time.......... Thanks for all the feedback guys, appreciate it!
  10. Check out the link above the dyno graph on this page. There's some graphs with a PTE5857. It spools between the 30 and 35 but kicks ass all the way to 7500rpm. The others don't hold boost as well and both their torque and power drop off considerably more. They hardly make power after 7000rpm, not quite ideal in a track car. I reckon it needs to be thrown into the mix seeing that. Thanks Simon.
  11. No, I had one let go at around 14psi after 5mins on a dyno. It's a casting issue, it'll just happen no matter what,...........if it's going to. You may be worrying for nothing at this point.
  12. Hi all, As the title says I have a complete leather interior for sale. It came out of a R32 GTR I'm turning into a track car so I no longer need it. It includes, front & rear seats, front door skins, rear quarter skins, centre console and gear leaver boot. All matching. It's in very good condition as the pictures will show. The drivers seat has a little cracking from getting in and out but that's it, no tears anywhere, no scratches etc. Inspections welcome if you live near Western Sydney. Will ship anywhere.... Not sure what it's worth, but I reckon $2000 is fair for what you get so check it out!
  13. You won't know until you try unfortunately.....
  14. Sold to me! Bugger off Brad. For the R34.
  15. Have you bought your PPG yet? I may be interested in a swap and some $$. Mine has just been fully rebuilt at Smithfield Diff and Gear.
  16. Did you buy yours from Plastics 4 Performance in UK ??
  17. I've just taken delivery of a set from them. I went for 5mm doors and 4mm windows. Figured the extra mm won't make that much difference in weight and it may just allow me to use factory seals to put them in. I ordered them with the oem borders too, looks cool and will be easily mistaken for glass if I can indeed us the factory seals to put them in with. The only downside, because they really do seem to be of very good quality, is the tinting (i got them tinted grey) it is darker on the door windows than it is on the 1/4s and rear window. Apparently it's because the door windows are thicker so they are darker as a result. No complaints though, being formed to shape should make them easy to install and less likely to leak in the wet. If I was to order again (which I will be for my next build) I'd buy clear and have them all tinted over here so they match, but I'm a fussy pr!ck.
  18. A bit under actually! Was thinking around $2k.
  19. That may be true, but they offer several brands and they are well aware of my history with EFR. I've also told Brett I'm looking for a 'budget' type solution so that probably rules out EFR. He'll give me a fair assessment, no question.
  20. I've asked Full Race for their opinion/selection given my target. Will be interesting to see what they come back with given they have many turbos in their stable to choose from.
  21. For $6500 does it include plenum, throttle bodies, rail, injectors, basically everything except hot side ?? From sump to covers ?? Or is it just a long motor ??
  22. You'll do 400kw easy enough with that setup. Been there done that. I'd probably even leave the 264 cams in first and see how you go, you may not need 272s.
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