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bri73y

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Everything posted by bri73y

  1. Blue is 98, Red is E85 This is with the 7psi springs so will be interesting to see if response picks up with a 14psi springs. It's also with 272 cams, bigger than the general consensus on here... Car has run 130mph with my big ass in it, so it makes the power no question.
  2. No, had it built by Abe (Chris Farrow). Same guy that builds Tilton Evo engines. 87mm bore, 9:1 comp, Kelford 272x9.33 cams, OS valves...
  3. It's getting outside it's limit. Mine makes 375kw @ 24psi on E85. My car is with my tuner this very moment having stiffer wastegate springs put in (currently only running the supplied 7psi springs) to see if we can crack 400kw. I'll know this time next week if it can go 30psi and over 400kw!!
  4. Imagine having twin EFR's then....
  5. I have the 7670 1.05 TS on a measly old RB25. The turbo kills it on a RB25, would hate to see what it does on a 2.8. I'd imagine it's a little too small unless your car is 100% street driven. It will also top out at 400kw..don't expect it to go too far north of 400kw even on E85.
  6. Hi Geoff, Yes after just circulating on Friday with low boost (bloody too hot to flog the old girl) we ran greens Saturday morning and cranked up the boost. I did a 1:35 on my first and only lap. I was happy with that even though I know there's more time to be shaved. I busted an intercooler hose clamp in the second session and didn't bother going out for the last session. Car is performing well, looking forward to doing more events next year.
  7. V Nice! You will be most impressed... FWIW - Dean Lillie (of WTAC fame) drove my car for half a lap (intercooler hose clamp broke off) on the weekend just gone at WTAC. For those of you that don't know my car makes just on 500kw at the treads using Twin 6258s. Dean's normal ride, the Powertune R34, makes 620kw at the treads on low boost using some new Garrett turbo of unknown description (by me anyway), not sure what it makes on high boost, safe to assume more! Dean, upon hopping out of my car, commented that my car pulls way harder all through the rev range than the Powertune R34...... Nothing against the Powertune R34, it's very accomplished and a bloody fast car, my point was more about how good these EFR's are!!
  8. This goes back a few years now, I don't have a recent one saved anywhere as the result is always similar. 30spi dropping off, the larger rear housings might just be worth a try.. Alternatively now that I have my chassis all sorted (and bank account drained) I can probably look to go up to bigger twins or large single as I'm confident the car will now handle the extra power.
  9. Hi Geoff, I noticed there's a new rear for the 6258's. Has there been any testing done against the original .64 rear ?? Would be interested to hear the resulting differences between the two... (is it wrong to say I'm getting bored with only 500kw..??) lol - in all seriousness, the singles have their place (got one on my car) but twin EFRs are next-level
  10. It's a custom job by Andrew at Custom Carbon Creations or CCC. Designed by Scott Beaton from Aero Design, the guy behind the WTAC rules. I've recently cut it down 100mm each side also, was huge back then! Not yet, car is resting until next year now. I've ordered some replacement LCA's and just need to make new hats and dogbones to better space the rotor. Thanks, matches the green roll cage also (can't really see that in the pics)
  11. Slightly off topic but some pics from last night's clean. Excuse the shit pics, crap phone and a couple of beers too many!
  12. If you mean camshafts then Jun 264 x 10.5, have also ran Tomei 270 x 10.8 and to be honest didn't see any difference on the dyno or feel any difference on the track when the change was made. Head is all Ferrea or Supertech, can't remember to be honest, was Tomei springs etc but we had to upgrade seat pressure a while back. Bottom end is a Tomei 2.8 x 87mm. There's a brief list of bolt ons etc in the 500kw thread. It's nothing out of the ordinary, most things GTR have been done over and over, there's heaps of info on what works, for most you can just follow everyone else's lead.
  13. I run Kelford cams in my RB25 (264/272) and have retained vct. It's possible, however they are a special order for vct to be retained. Talk to Kelford, I dealt with Kiel Rasmussen.
  14. I did have a set very early on (3yrs ago), they were prototypes so I'm not sure if the current 7163's are the same config. Paul is correct, 20psi around 5500 and went on to make approx 600hp from memory. Didn't push them past 20psi so I have no idea where they would end up.
  15. Almost Brand New, never installed in car, however taken from box when purchased Braille ML9C Battery and Micro-lite 5amp Lithium-ion Charger. Comes with battery mounting kit unused/unopened. Battery alone retails for approx $1200, Charger and Mount kit $100's more again. All up cost approx $1500. Will consider offers over $650.00 - Makes this package an absolute bargain!! Decided not to install in my car afterall. Absolutely nothing wrong with any of it. Purchased this year. If you're looking for a light powerful battery then this is it!! Can't go wrong. As used by V8 Supercars. http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/product/23201/ml9c.html
  16. I have their pss9 in my 32 gtr. Custom but can be done.
  17. I run these exact wheels on my R32 GTR. No dramas whatsoever, excellent wheel.
  18. Sounds similar to my weekend. Either popped or broke 3 driveshafts in 3 sessions. Didn't finish a lap with 4wd, in fact I didn't make it past Corporate Hill with 4wd once!! Was towed off 1 session when the above smashed itself to bits, made a hell of a noise when it let go. Oh well, like Richo, there's always next year.....
  19. It will be resolved properly after WTAC. For the moment we'll just try and add some strengthening and do minimum laps Fri/Sat. Pretty much all you do at WTAC anyway... Pick a session with reasonable weather and go do 1 hot lap, then park it like a pro..
  20. It's been like it for atleast 12months. Lucky for me my car hasn't done many laps during this time......given I've only made it to lunch twice in the last 12months. We've been so busy chasing "other" issues it's been missed. Certainly now on the must fix list!!
  21. Sux is one way to describe it. On closer inspection we believe it's been ground by hand, not as a result of scrubbing. There's only the lightest witness mark on the rotor, certainly not the damage you'd expect if it was in contact enough to destroy the arm. The problem is the clearance to the rotor, obviously when the rotors where installed on my car, instead of correctly spacing them, the person (who shall remain nameless) chose to butcher my arms instead of doing things properly. To hell with my expensive arms or my safety!! In the words of the workshop who currently has my car: The issue is the incorrect brake rotor offset. The existing front brake set up is an absolute mess. · No rotor location to hub, other than on the thread of the studs · Rim location to hub is only 1 mm · Calliper not central to rotor · Calliper body fouling on dog bone · Calliper mounts in uprights have been drilled (opened up to allow radial alignment of the calliper to the rotor ) · Dog bone to upright threads stripped – calliper was loose. · Etc etc
  22. Good to know - thanks. I'll have to remember this when I buy some new ones!!!!!!
  23. Mine probably was 8mm at one point.... My shock is also out in that picture hence why the angle of the arm doesn't look right. We both know who put these on so it's no surprise something has finally come back to bite me! I really do think it's just a spacing issue. New arms and new hats/dogbones will be required post WTAC. And for the big brake lovers out there. I picked up my new rotors (380x34) from VSport earlier today. My god I need to go smaller, they are fkn heavy, not to mention expensive!
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