bri73y

Yep, it was me. Thanks, she's definately a piece of work! True to form though, another day another early retirement. Car on trailer mid-way through 3rd session. First time driven since WTAC and clearly we still haven't found the cause of the car's electrical issues. Wasn't even pushing hard yesterday, just doing low boost runs to gather more data. Oh well, back to the R33 GTST!!

It's currently on an RB25 however I believe it will fit just the same on a RB26.

Won't separate unless I have a few people interested in the collective lot. If I'm going to change I need to change everything so just selling the turbo doesn't do it for me unfortunately. Thanks anyway.

Any interest in a second hand (near new) HTA 3076 + 6Boost Hi Mount Mani + Tial MVR Wastegate and Dump pipe to suit ?? Done probably 6-8 hours dyno/track time. Cost all up around $4000. I'm thinking about going bigger.....

It's a time attack car, they're meant to break . I just don't like that it does...

My GTST is way less stressed than my GTR. Try 330hp (in W300 tune) vs 670hp GTR. Power breaks things. Also, for those that say a GTR is a more rewarding drive than an Evo, that's very true, however a real wheel drive car is more rewarding again.

my 2c.. I own a no expense spared R32 GTR that has never delivered on it's promise, always one thing after the other. Last year I undertook building a cheap R33 GTST because I was getting shitty about never finishing, never starting or never being happy with my GTR. I've got to say, I've done more laps in my GTST in the last 6months than I have in my GTR over the last 6 years. Over the weekend my R33 competed in the Wakefield 300, qualified 12th in the wet and finished the race near last, but finished. My GTR wouldn't have made it to half way. We split a power steering hose so lost probably 10laps trying to locate and replace the hose before rejoining the race. Had to do an extra fuel stop also as only a standard tank, so there's another 5laps down. The car is fairly basic, we ran on 14psi 98ron with about 330hp, and would've run perfect all day except the split hose. Tyres were shagged from mid way but no complaints here. I've got to say it's far more rewarding/enjoyable finishing a race near last than not finishing at all. I towed her home last night and have practically nothing to do to her before taking her out again. I've never done that in my GTR, it goes from the track to the mechanics, back to the track again. Massive pain in the ass! My tip, buy/build a car that will finish the day. It's far more enjoyable than having a fast car that breaks.

My Holinger was in for approx 4yrs also without touching it until now.

First hand. I owned a straight cut dog engagement PPG box for about 4 years. Drove it occasionally on the street, mostly in tarmac rallies etc. It was rebuilt/refurbished every year without fail, regardless of how it was treated. They just don't handle power as well as people say. Paul's car will certainly stretch it's limits with 470kw on tap. These boxes prefer to be shifted hard, the slower you engage the dog rings the more damage you do to them and the gears. It's not always apparent until you pull it down just what slow shifting (street type driving) does to the box. I sold it and went Holinger. My Holinger is helical, not sure if they all are. It's quieter and easier to drive at any speed without doing damage as a result. I rebuilt my Holinger pre WTAC and parts alone was $5k! Nothing's cheap or bullet proof when you're chasing big power unfortunately. There's no simple answer, other than keep saving your hard earned....

I couldn't imagine a dog box working that well on the street. You need to be fairly brutal with them otherwise you'll just wear them out and be up for about $5k per year in rebuilds. They just don't cop slow and steady gear changes well. 470kw will trouble a ppg too. Mine was cactus once I started pushing out over 400kw.

Almost forgot, this was Thursday too. Popped a couple of shims when Mark Berry was driving...... Had a false neutral on gear shift.

Absolutely nothing stock about my car...... Unfortunately we had issues as Lith has already alerted to. Something electrical was taking out components daily. Thursday we lost 4WD, Friday we lost power steering and fuel pumps, Saturday we lost the ECU and M&W ignition unit. Had all the right people working on the car however we were unable to locate the problem. Never made it across the finish line under power unfortunately.

They are nowadays. Those pics were from the original install. I didn't realise I had posted new pics of them being black. Anyway......

Here's a couple of pics for you.....

-5's aren't so cheap now....

SOLD!

I've just had a look on our freight calculator here at work. I think it would be approx $120.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=141071538366 Now on Ebay!

Yep, absolutely no shuffle, not anywhere. I've had -5's and -10's. Both shuffled at some point, sometimes under load, sometimes when you least expect it. It was very annoying and led to a slow car, regardless of the KW they were supposed to be delivering. The EFR's do "simply work". I've never experienced shuffle with them, even when I dabbled with twin 7163's there was no shuffle. As twins go, I don't know of any other alternative that gives the same result as the 6258's. I still remember the very first time I drove with them on, WTAC 2011. I headed out from pit lane and lit all four wheels up on pit exit, had it sideways before I even made the track. I was just not prepared for the instant power these things delivered. I was smiling and shitting myself all the way to turn 2! I went to hell and back with these a few years ago, but right now, today, very happy I endured the pain as my car just hammers!! The EFR's are an awesome bit of kit. Remember........dynos only ever tell half the story, the other half just has to be experienced.

I have for sale my Holinger shift cut gear knob. As new hardly used. Comes with 1 piece Holinger made gear stick. Can separate if required. Gear knob suits all sequential boxes..see attached link for more info http://www.holinger.com.au/knobs.php Looking for $650 combined which is not much more than 1/2 price. Thanks. Free postage anywhere in AUS.

Wetherill Park NSW

For $250 I would be.

Offers on mani/dump etc ... ? Want this gone.

$400 anyone.....?

$800 bargain! Easy to remove splitter or bar complete for track days.