3LGODZILA

that engine bay is mean! got any exterior pics? im looking at doing a black/carbon fibre duck wing myself

ud wanna be 100% sure that the knock sensor is faulty causing it to read knock all the time. it would actually be funny if the mines ecu is making the engine knock seeing as u seem to love it so much

as in touch yourself over them? wouldnt go that far

given up hes not gonna listen, if his engine blows up, pings, or leans out i aint gonna lose sleep over it and doubt any1 else on here will. change your o2 sensor if u think its faulty remove your boost controller and go back to standard keep the ecu, i dont give a f**k then sell your car and get an mx5

small piece of wire will bridge out any relay haha. imo best bet would be getting a quick release steering wheel, but if they look in the window they might bring 1 for next time lol. very good alarm with motion sensors and all that crap? edit: lol sorry for reviving it

crows feet spanners are just like ring spanners but a little section is cut out so u can put it over sensors and pipes ect. its not that hard guys just take off the heatshield and any other bits of crap that might get in the way, ive taken mine off multiple times with a shifter and a little manpower

that not super high, is it really a problem? how often do u just coast with ur clutch depressed anyways, as long as its not idling that high when stationary (warm) i wouldn't worry about it. but if ur set on trying to locate it, to me it sounds like the acc valve, just coz its clean doesn't mean its not faulty good luck buddy

how much u wanna pay? ill have mine out in a week or so, just waiting on getting the car tuned

btw u wont burn anything out, the starter motor is what draws the current not the battery, it'll just be able to supply a shitload more if need (i wont be needed) with my old battery could only leave the ignition on for like 10 mins and i couldnt start now its like over 30 mins - hasnt gone flat on me yet

with r32's is the battery in the engine bay or the boot? ive just done a battery upgrade on my 33 including heavy duty terminals and lugs, i went from a tiny ass battery (maintenance free 280 CCA) to now something bigger then wats in your local falcodores, also used heavy duty terminals, but to do this had to chop the old ones off and crimp new lugs on. and they got wing nuts so they're easy to remove and tighten up well, and cheap i personally wouldnt bother with those fancy terminals, i had something similar i bought from alberts car audio and they were just so shit, they didnt tighten up properly and to take them off u need allen keys, not to mention they were 25bux each! where abouts are u in perth? if u want i can fit everything for u - new battery, hold down clamps, lugs and terminals. (see my sig) or if u wanna do it all yourself i can source the parts for ya - i work at autospark so yeah pm me if u need anything

either rb20 bov's are pretty loud or yours and my definition of loud is different, ive got a r32 gtr bov on my rb25 and i dont think its loud at all, i had an apexi dual chamber bov on there before (a fairly quiet atmo bov) and the gtr bov is much quieter.

no, the mines ecu is crap! did mines specifically ask exactly which mods u had and then made the ecu to suit? i dont think so, those ecu's are pre-tuned to suit god knows what (im guessing stage 1 mods) and they've probably just got a leaner air-fuel mixture and advanced timing to squeeze out a lil more power but how safe is it? if u wanna be cheap just run the standard ecu atleast it'll be safe, and for what you've got u could run an safcII, i made 30rwhp from a 30minute tune with mine (same mods as u). then sell the mines ecu and u'll have 250 in ur wallet. for 500 u could skip the safcII and mines ecu and get nistune, since u wanna be cheap dont even think about a power fc, nistune will be fine only trying to help mate do whatever u want its your car

f**k the mines ecu right off to start with its not doing you any favours

+1 they are bloody solid more pics of that rb26'd beemer plz!!

how high is the idle?

this old bloke at my work swares by BP, even if its premium or wateva he said hes had traces of water from places like gull

are they nice jap rims or just cheap ones? and how much do u wanna spend? personally if they're a nice set of rims and u dont wanna skip on quality powdercoat them for a few hundred dollars i wouldnt pay a few hundred just to paint them, paint scratches easily, a good quality paint wont scratch as easily but if its gonna cost you a few hundred dollars thats round about the same price to powdercoat them. i painted my stockies with a very cheap brand spray can (primer then gloss black) about a year ago and they're still fine today no chips no faded paint its still surprisingly good haha and i wash the car regularly and drive it daily, and the best part about this way is it'll cost you $5, if u do hit a gutter or something u can always touch it up with the leftovers in the can using a brush and if u dont like how it looks just rub it down with thinners.

pics/vids of the flamethrower kit lol blue lights is kinda asking for it, fair enough white or very slight blue to match hids ect. i mainly see blue led washer jets, side indicators and park lights on commodores and excels need i say any more?

yeah i know im not even running any atm, ive got hids and the only ones that match the colour were those white led ones but they both stuffed up - only 1 or 2 of the 6 or wateva led's were lighting upon both sides. yeah i may aswell just do it if i get yellowed ill just jimmy something up

i work at delta autospark in redcliffe, if ur free during the day we can check it out but it'll prob be much much cheaper if i did a cash job for ya, im busy 2mro i can have a look wednesday afta work. ive gota drive to alexander heights to get home so im onli realy SOR after work (round 5ish). the cig lighter will have an acc feed and and earth going into the back of it and a park light feed going into the side of it. i cant tell you why it was only working when ur headlights were on that sounds really strange unless some retard gave it a headlight power feed (cant understand why) the actual element might be all loose right inside the socket and shorting out, and cigarette lighters are usualy all pretty universal and cheap (atleast it'll rule that out) or theres a short in the wiring the first place to look would be behind the cigarette lighter. pm me if u want me to have a look at it

CRC silicone spray. if u cant find it make sure u get one thats made to be used for electrical appliances and doesnt act as an insulator. infact i wouldnt even bother with the stuff to be on the safe side

mmkay well i guess thats good news then. now what to do with the indicators.... looks like the previous owner chopped off the mounts (under the gtr rectangular vents) so im thinking i mite relocate them to where the parkers usualy are. but im guessing then id need external parklights to pass pits....damn park lights!

well honestly i dont know bugger all about this stuff. i know the headlights grill and bonnet are different between the 2 series and people say if u try fit a series 2 bumper to a series 1 car or vice versa there will be a gap between the bonnet and it wont fit nicely. is this just because of the grill? coz ive got a standard series 2 front end on it i can just use the grill from that, but surely it cant be that easy can it?

im guessing it has a de-cat pipe? if so put a cat in there does it have the standard ecu?

ive got an r33 gtst series 2 and im hoping to use this bumper, its a mates of mine hes got a gtr and this is to suit a gtst just unsure if its for a series 1 or 2, is it hard to tell just by looking at it?