3LGODZILA

ive bought a nistune board and an rb20 ecu to use in my r33 and ive got a frequency switch from jaycar to control the vct. ive been told the range is around 1800rpm - 4700rpm. should i go straight off this or should i do dyno runs with and without the vct to get it exact? from what ive read the vct solenoid has a constant ignition feed and a switched earth. so really all i have to do is run an earth to one side of the NO contact and run a wire to the vct solenoid from the other side of the NO contact on the switch and then adjust the switch so that it turns on and off at the desired rpm? and of course have a 12v ignition and earth going into the switch to give it power, and tap into the rpm signal and run that to the switch? also when adjusting the the actual switch to turn on and off at the desired rpm can i be free revving the car in neutral?

EL falcon is exacly the same but much cheaper, just gota chop and change the plug

with the arm disconnected it boosted to 14psi. im guessing it is the exhaust then, not fouling but restricting flow if i plan on running say 15psi would this be a problem or would the engine build higher boost in say a higher gear under load? i did the test in second gear and pretty much took it to redline

stao from hypergear rang me today after reading this thread so +1 on hypergears service. im gonna try drive with the actuator arm disconnected to see if the exhaust is a restriction and then i might try play with the actuator. when the engine cools down ofcorse

ok so i recently installed a basic highflow turbo from hypergear and a split dump/front pipe from JJR. i made sure i die grinded out the wastegate section on the dump so it can open fully. also im not running any boost controller its straight off the actuator dramas......... so the cars running fine except the boost is creeping. boost builds up to 9-10psi as normal and stays there for about a second then creeps fairly quickly to about 17-18psi then i back off (may creep further but i dont wna try) and the weird thing is its not hitting R&R or boost cut im running standard ecu atm. so ive blown compressed air into the actuator and the wastegate arm only moves half of what its supposed to (around 45degrees) which made me think its the split dump. so i took off the little circlip and took the actuator arm off the wastegate flap and moved the flap with my fingers and it moves the full way (around 90degrees) what other tests can i do? does the actuator sound like its stuffed? can it be modified? i am getting a nistune as soon as this prob is fixed

or even pull the dipstick out see if its milky

ok time for an update, the cooling issue looks to be gone, i bled the system properly this time. car is running ALOT better now with the boost controller disconnected and it doesnt feel laggy anymore (ecu must of taken out timing and maybe hitting r&r) but now ive ran into another problem.....overboosting. so i put my foot down boost starts to build around 3000rpm, boost builds quickly to 9psi then about a second later it climbs quickly to 17ish psi then i back off. im guessing this is the split dump i dont get it but! if the JJR split dump are THAT bad how does he sell so bloody many of them, and i did die grind the inside of the wastegate section on the dump pipe where its fouling. what checks can i make from here? blowing compressed air into the wastegate?? EDIT: and also SOMETIMES the car stalls after i bip the throttle like its running an atmo bov, i have put the standard one back on but since ive got a different intake pipe its custom return piping, would a slight restriction in the bov return hosing cause it to do this?

hav a feelin its coz i didnt bleed it properly so ill try that wen i get home. also the car runs like crap, no power at all under 3000rpm then quickly makes boost to around 15psi and feels sluggish. this is probably coz of the standard ecu yeah?

the actuator was bolted onto the turbo when i sent it in, ill have a read 2mro. taken it for a drive and the bloody thing is overheating, got to 3/4 on the gauge then i came home and turned it off. the 1st drive i accidently left the coolant bleeding screw loose so i thought that was the prob, got home tightened it up let it cool off, went for another drive and the temp went to 3/4 again came home and theres fark all coolant in the system. maybe a leak from one of the water lines to the turbo? i had to reuse the old copper washers coz i couldnt source any, any ideas???????

ok ive got the car running after i installed a highflow turbo, JJR split dump/front pipe modified into a screamer, and wrapped the top half of the dump pipe with exhaust wrap. started it up and its quite loud, exhaust is flowing out of the wastegate at idle, is this only while its cold? or is this the ghey thing about internally gated screamers? what could be causing the black smoke as i rev the engine? would it be the standard ECU riching it up coz of the highflow? or anything to do with the dump? also after running for about 2 mins i noticed the turbo/dump pipe area started to smoke, is this just becuase the exhaust wrap is new? cheers jimmy

after speaking to hyperdrive im thinking it will be easier to run an rb20 ecu over a z32 for an rb25 and use a vct controller instead of modifying the wiring harness. i was recomended to get a switch to operate the vct from jaycar, does any1 know wat the product is? or is there a better option?

well everythings done except for the bov. im going back to standard and im using a shitty china metal intake pipe so im waiting on a piece of silicone hose to come. she should be running 2mro

i ran no bov for a while and the car ran so much better with one, i also noticed the difference between stock and atmo. also recently blew my standard turbo (bearings) and when u consider how a turbo operates and what happens when theres no bov, it cannot be doing the thrust bearing any good. wudnt be surprised if that was the cause of failure my 2 cents anyway

cool, yeh havnt got a compressor at home so ill just have to take it for a drive n hope for the best.

yeh ended up getting the buggers on after i took the p clamps off n bent the pipes

installing my highflow turbo from hypergear (just the basic highflow) and the bloody water lines are out by about 10mm, both of them. i dont really wanna bend the pipes and snap them either. anyone else run into similar problems? i mean when i was pulling the turbo out the lines may have been bumped a bit but surely not this much. this supposedly bolt off bolt on upgrade is turning into a pain in the ass!

yeh wat i understand is the boost creep is caused by the flap hitting and not opening fully, i was expecting it to foul like half open but it seems to open heaps just very very slightly less then a bellmouth as u can see in the pics.

yep its just 1 from JJR

as you can see ive marked the bottom blue line wen it was inside the bellmouth and the top blue line inside the split. sorry its a bit blurry but u can see the different angle the wastegate arm is at

ok while i have my turbo off im trail fitting my split dump, i had a bellmouth on before. ive taken 2 pics, the 1st one is how much the wastegate flap opens inside the bellmouth dump and the second is inside the split dump. is this the boost creep that people talk about using a split dump because it seems like it opens fully and is only very slightly less then the bellmouth. i have die grinded the wastegate pipe out slightly should i go more or leave it, coz i dont think ill get much more out of it with the die grinder.

the hardest part about it would be removing the coilpack cover and crossover pipe. u just needa know how to use a ratchet as its just undoing bolts. then just unbolt the coilpacks, pop them off, take out the sparkies. change them with new ones gapped to 0.8mm and change the coilpacks too (if u got the money)

any1 know wat will happen if i just unplug this motor? its in a position where if i unplug it theres no way its going bak in without taking the WHOLE dash off so just wanna clarify 1st

ok ive looked on the manual and im confused, for the pressure sensor it says to get a reading from the manifold, and then it says somewhere else to Tee it inbetween the surge tank and the fuel pressure regulator. so im a bit confused going off the manual, is this how im supposed to hook it up? pressure sensor - somewhere on the intake plenum to read boost pressure? solenoid NO- ive got a nipple comming off my FMIC piping (going to the crossover pipe) where my old manual boost controller was do i replace that with this? solenoid NC- leave alone (atm this doesn't even have a fitting/nipple comming off it its just a thread is that how i leave this? solenoid COM- to the wastegate (where my old manual boost controller was)

which gasket should i use for a split dump pipe, the standard one? standard one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34...=item2ea67ea7e9 or one like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34...=item563696c537

also have a series 2 and cant even touch the bloody thing. if i unplug the motor will i still be able to switch between the vent settings? i dont get why it only clicks on startup then goes away and all vents operate fine?