3LGODZILA

well my turbos getting highflowed atm. if its just die grinding and test fitting should be fairly easy as it'll all be off the car. did u get a custom split or bellmouth made up? how much did it cost?

which gasket is oil leaking from? ur exhaust? that doesnt sound right lol

u do it to the starter solenoid which is on the starter motor. uve got a thick battery cable then a normal wire with a female spade terminal. take off the wire and put it to 86 of the relay. then make a wire from 85 straight to ground, then run a wire (4mm cable) to 87 then run another wire (4mm) from 30 to the starter soleniod. and u dont check a battery by checking how much volts it has when its just sitting there. put a volt meter on it while u start the car if it drops under 9volts its more then likely f*ked or just really undercharged and if a batterys going flat after a week doesnt mean its f*ked it more then likely means uve got current draw. to check for this get a multimeter (red to 10amp unfused and black to com) dissconect the negative battery cable with the key switched off, set ur multimeter to 10amps and put one lead to the battery cable and 1 lead to the negative terminal on the battery. make sure all doors are closed and immobiliser is flashing (as if everything is off) u should have a reading of no more then 0.02 amps if u dont know wat ur doing get someone who does!

is the car sluggish at all? or is there no loss of power? to bash out my cat i used a strong metal rod, hammer, vice and over an hour of non stop bashing it. however im not using my gutted car nemore wanna buy it im in alexander heights ?

when using one of those JJR split dump/front pipes on a standard turbo around 12psi most people run into boost creep issues because of the wastegate flap fouling on the pipe would this still happen on a highflow ?(the standard highflow from hypergear) would preloading the wastegate make any difference? or would i have to modify the actual dump pipe (i havnt actually seen how the wastegate fouls on the dumps so im just going of what ive read)

i had a stocking full of stainless steel wool inside but ive removed it. actualy i had about 5 stockings wrapped around the wool. i was paranoid about getting steel wool inside my engine incase the stocking failed (they are bloody thin!) thats why i removed the stocking n wool altogether. is a catch can thats not venting useless without it?

you should still do the fuel pump wiring mod u dont wanna starve the engine for fuel when your giving it stick. instead of just grounding the earth wire you should put a relay in and give the pump direct battery voltage. note - just remembered r32s dont have the battery in the boot like r33s do they? this is a piece of piss mod in 33s for your car u might have to run a wire from ur engine bay.

yeh and the aftermarket coloured silicone vac hose is pretty stretchy too so if its a bit smaller you should be right

looks good man, unforturnaly i dont have a compressor or anything at home so ill have to do mine by can unless i pay someone (love DIY mods hahaha) blue looks good will also match my 'ricer blue mods' lol but if i paint them silver i spose any f**k ups wont stick out like dogs balls

id get someone who knows a fair bit to come have a look or just pull the turbo off. mine went last week it sounded like a cop siren! so i had a closer look checking all the above mentioned. after i pulled it off both wheels looked fine wasnt till i shone i tourch and stuck my head right up to it a piece from one of the impeller blades had chipped off, from the turbo spinning out of balance as mentioned above.

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ok about 90% of the time when i turn the key to ignition i get this tapping noise from behind the main dash, its coming from towards the middle/passenger side around the firewall and its definitely inside the car and not in the engine bay. ill try to describe the noise. it will tap loudly about 10 times and it sounds like an electrical motor operation (example wiper motor) exept it wont be a smooth noise it will constantly go on and off hence the tapping. im an apprentice auto leccy so fixing the prob wont be an issue its just diagnosing it thats a head f**k. i cant think of what it could be its definately not the blower motor or the wiper motor coz ive operated both quickly as ive turned ignition on and they operate fine and theres no differnece to the tapping noise. something with the passenger airbag maybe? wonder if this is a common prob or im just lucky haha

while half my engine is apart i thought id do my rocker covers, quick question. how would it turn out if i used an engine enamel primer and paint then a clear coat (maybe) from spray cans ? or shud i stick with say an engine enamel 2pac from a spray gun ? would the paint from a spray can bubble or peel off?

so if we leave it at 10psi, wat would be the highest amount of boost i can run

doesnt the standard computer hit boost cut at over 200kw? unless u bypass it ofc but thats pretty silly

btw i was the guy who rang you yesterday, i sent the turbo your way earlier today. so what your talking about with the wastegate having a preload of 10psi, does that mean 10psi is the minimum i can run ? also wat do u mean by tab the HACS slightly ? cheers

if i use a 34 turbo ill need a new dump pipe right? + i dont like to buy second hand parts about 80% of parts ive purchased have been dodgy in some way as the person above this post said he was fine with it -shudnt a boost controller stop it spiking? i dont really get what you were saying before about the spring being to tight and frying the clutch yeh i forgot to add im running a 550hp walbro

its the standard highflow for $960 not sure what he does with the wastegate ill ring tomorow and ask. the reason i wanna stay with the safc is coz i dont have a spare $2000+ and i dont wanna make the maximum power possilble just wanna get it running safely will be happy with 180-200kw. just to get the car back running again im gna have to save every penny for 2 weeks and not go out at all lol. im going for cheap and reliable, i can leave out fast for now haha

ok so my standard turbo let go at 9psi sounding like a cop siren. got the boys at united fuel injection to have a look and found 1 of the impeller blades was chipped in the corner (attatched pic) caused by the internals failing (probably bearings) now before i put a new turbo in is that normal for a standard turbo to let go. usualy the turbo destroys itself or when it lets go its at 12+ psi so would there maybe be a problem in my oil lines or something? or is it just the turbo. ok so to my original question. i rang up hypergear and im thinking of getting a standard highflow for $960 (240rwkw turbo using bush bearings) -will it be safe to run this turbo on 9, 10 , 11 , or 12psi or however high i can go without the standard ecu hitting boost cut/rich and retard running an safc??? the car wasnt realy set up for an aftermarket turbo as ive still got the standard clutch, injectors, afm and ECU, the car made 192kw with the standard turbo before. ill be happy to run similar boost as before and make the same power (im not trying for 240 on my setup) just wanna make sure the ECU will be able to controll the slightly bigger turbo with steel wheels safely. cheers fellas

had a mate that knows his shit come over and have a look, he recons must be the bearings or internals coz u can feel it vibrate as the noise comes on wen i rev the engine so im in the process of pulling the turbo off atm, just got that last oil drain that goes to the sump to get off hoping my 1 week old motul wont go to waste ahhahahah havnt got the car jacked up atm and its dark :S i can feel 2 bolts under the turbo are these the ones to take off the oil drain to avoid losing much oil?? oh yeh dump pipe gasket and the gasket between the turbo and mani were both good, no snapped bolts/studs although all the turbo bolts came off fairly easily but i still had the crack them with a spanner so they weren't finger tight or anything

sorry for the long read but i tryed to add as much info as possible car is a series 2 r33 with the infamous nylon compressor wheel mods = the usual for 200kw with standard turbo (3inch exhaust bellmouth dump decat pipe, FMIC, MBC running 9psi at the time, pod filter, metal intake pipe) car has been running fine ever since last nite, gave it shit in second gear as i changed into 3rd around redline i head a loud WUUUUUUUUUUUR noise that sounded like a cop siren. and now its constantly making the noise very slightly at idle and as soon as i give it a bit of throttle even when my boost gauge is reading in vaccum. i gave it about 1/3 throttle and it made 2psi but i didnt wanna try see if it makes any more incase the something in the turbo wasnt right and it fed my engine peices. the car did feel slugish on the drive home soooo immediately i thought my turbo shat itsself so ive pulled most of the piping off everything seems fine. i personaly havnt felt the shaft play in any turbo wether it be brand new or rooted so i duno if mine is acceptable or not but ill try to explain it, i can pull the impeller shaft in and out but only VERY slightly maybe around 1mm? and if i pull the shaft out as much as i can i can very slightly move it up and down maybe around half a mm. i had a look with a torch and the impeller wheel seems fine its all intact spins freely and there no chips on the edges. what should i look for now is it worth pulling the dump off to see the condition of the exhaust wheel or is it only the compressor wheel that gives way? and also i checked all my cooler piping to check for any leaks all clamps are tight and seem alrite silicone joiners are good. is it possilble for the FMIC to shit itself sumhow with a small leak or something, i did buy it second hand about 6 months ago no major dents and i have never hit or scraped it on anything if its something like a intake manifold gasket how do i check if its rooted, anyway other then pulling the whole thing off??? oh yeh 1 thing i forgot to add, while the engine was running i put a screwdriver to my ear and reved it slightly to get the noise to come on, when i held it on the metal intake pipe comming off the turbo the noise was definately there, i then put it to the intake manifold and it wasnt there. so im leaning towards the turbo but wat could it be the bearings or seals??? car isnt blowing smoke btw

u said your running a gutted cat, that would be 2.5inch. why dont you try a bigger cat or a 3inch de-cat pipe?

every dyno is different, every tuner is different. i made 170 @ 11psi with no safc and 192 @11psi after i got the safc tuned. u probably will pick up a few hp but just dont expect to.

sounds like its hitting boost cut aka rich and retard. R&R works off the knock sensor so it may be faulty, hows your boost control? if its making too much boost then it will hit R&R so u may be getting boost creep or if your running more then 11-12psi BTW when u hit boost cut it feels like you hit a brick wall until your boost/revs drop and if u hold full throttle it will keep repeating this making a the car jerk violently

depends on the dyno you should make an extra 30hp with exhaust cooler and 11psi on std ecu i made 170kw (230hp) then i installed the safcII and made 193kw (260hp) before i got it tuned i asked the guy how much it should make and he said 30hp coz he tuned a gtst the other day and it made that, so my guess is 30hp!! just raise the boost as high as u can without hitting boost cut which i can almost guarentee wont be any more then 12psi mine was tuned to 11psi and didnt hit boost cut on the dyno but when i drove the car on a cold night or when the engine was still cold it would sometimes hit boost cut oh yeh and i had NO increase in fuel economy, i was kinda expecting a differnence, still get 400km to 50L good luck with it dont blow ya car up