3LGODZILA

seeing nytskys pics almost made me change my mind! im glad i saw nagas pic, dont want them to stick out like dogs balls, just need something brighter as the factory low beam is shithouse at night time and highbeam lights up the whole fkn street haha

r u on p plates ?

reminds me of this car... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qx7tRl5dAiE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB4od-n1aTw .....not cool at all

thanks fellas, i think ill try find some bomex ones

PM performance-wise on here

hey ive got a nismo front lip and nismo sideskirts, but i dont think there's a rear lip/pods to suit, so im either thinking of getting gtr pods or a 400r bumper, or anything that will line up with my sideskirts as they're pretty low at the back and also match it. here's some pics of what my car looks like atm. coz i had my exhaust made on the car it sits pretty high, does this mean i can only go for rear pods?

pm sent

so its actually real leather and good quality? might look into it

use redline lightweight shockproof in there, it will fix the crunch, its not too expensive anyways, i think i payed $200 to get it changed, including the oil. -$200 to give you a smoother gearbox doesnt sound expensive to me but i was told by my mechanic, that when u use redline lightweight shockproof u gotta change the oil out more frequently (idk why) i think he said every 30,000 or so km's which is still a fkn long time.

depends how bad they are, when i first bought my car they weren't too bad, but noticeably yellow. i just use carnauba wax from mothers, i got a clay bar, small bottle of wax and instant detailer for around $30 from autopro, dont sand them unless they're really really bad and clearcoat them or something, i did this on my mazda and they turn yellow every few days now. heres a pic of the wax i use (on the left) on the bottle is says 'removes oxidation' which is that yellow shit. this stuffs pretty good, i wash my car once a week and i only have to wax my lights once a month, all u need is one quick coat which takes 2 minutes. heres pics when i 1st got my car and heres pics now pics arnt the best sorry, they wernt taken for the headlights, there just random pics on my comp

this is on a r33 gtst btw, i was speaking to my tuner today bout fmic's, he was telling me that the gtst has an outline of a hole where the gtr has a hole for the fmic piping, so if i drill out this hole to run my piping so its the same as the gtr's that come from factory, this shouldn't affect the structure or airbags or anything, ok sweet the only problem is how are the pit inspectors gonna look at it if i ever get a canary, will it need to be engineered? if u gotta r33 gtst series 2 (with airbags) with a fmic that needed a hole cut, did u pass or fail? tell ya story here!

also interested

or splice it into the park lights so it comes on with everything else

is the boost gauge face included for a r33 gtst yet? (s2)

get a turbotech manual boost controller of ebay, this would be the ONLY MBC id use. theres a big 80+page thread on here just search for it. + if your hiding mods from your wife i dont think your gonna go over 200kw & 12psi anyways, ive only ever heard problems with this MBC over 15psi, yet some people run close to 20psi, so you will defo be safe this will do the job for under $40 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual-tu...93%3A1|294%3A50

no i am not serious :laughing-smiley-014:

stupid question: is lipping the guards just another name for rolling?

pics

ok so your saying a pod thats not enclosed performs worse then a stock air box. does an enclosed pod perform better or the same as a factory air box ?

this is just getting way too out of hand, im hiding my keys from now on. i hope for your sake its insured for a good amount and you get payed out, unfortunately the car just wont be the same again as said earlier, yes the thief should have flown through the front windshield. and +1 for pin code alarm systems

its all good... ill just drop my car off to the workshop and pick it up at the end of the day, get it done properly. instead of rushing to get 2 dyno runs done in an hour

hey im wondering if its safe to do a dyno run without my coilpacks bolted down, reason for this is to save time, ill have roughly 1 hour to get the car on the dyno.. unbolt the coilpacks chuck some new ones on, then put it on the dyno again. is there a chance the coilpack could pop off at high revs? and if it did what would be likely to happen? will i be risking my engine? if it may be an issue i could always just bolt in one of the screws to save a bit of time.

i looked into this but it seems u still gotta cut your reo bar which isnt roadworthy, and also a bit from your front bar which isnt a big deal at all but still. and also ive heard users say the return pipe scrapes curbs if your not careful. i also thought of getting a good smic but i just cant see it cooling that well, specially on a hot day

im pretty certain my rotors are warped as when i brake fairly hard from over 100kmph the whole car stutters, and when stopping slowly at a set of lights i can feel it braking on, off, on, off. also when i jacked up my car last time i spun one of the wheels & i could hear it scraping as it spun past the pad. (i probably should have checked every wheel) i remember when i had my rotors on my mazda mx6 machined, i think i payed $100 a corner is this an excuse to upgrade my rotors to say some nice slotted or drilled ones? and would it make much of a difference just on the street? will upgraded rotors decrease my stopping distance or just keep the brakes cooler? how much would i be looking at spending and would it be worthwhile?