3LGODZILA

so ive searched and found r34 gtr wheels weigh around 8.5kg w/o rubber how would volk GTP 18x8 & 18x9 compare with that also advan RG 18x8 & 18x9 doesnt have to be these exact sizes but im definitely going 18's, i just wanna know if there gonna be heavier, will it be by quite a bit or just a little bit. also people say its not accurate to weight them with tyres, does this mean heavier rims with light tyres could perform better then lighter rims with heaver tyres ?? or does the weight of the tyre have more to do with how much tread it has?

interested

roof mounted detectors.. never heard of them before and i probably dont wanna see one :laughing-smiley-014: are roof mounted detectors like multinovas (just get you for speeding?) and in the country r u talking bout bunbury and albany ect. ?

hey has anyone turned just the k-band off? ive had my detector for around 2 months, and the k-band false alerts are really pissing me off, k-band has never saved me. ive driven past multiple unmarket cars/marked cars and cop stations and the detector has never beeped anything. ive read up somewhere that for the detector to pick up a cop car they have to be using they're radar at the time or something, is this the only time that k-band will go off legitimatly? ps. laser and ka-band work fine. is this right? -ka band = only multinovas, (and maybe cop cars ?) -laser = only handheld's -k band = a shitload of false alrets is what ive only seen x band = not needed in WA so its turned off has any1 turned off kband without any probs? cheers !

im not so worried how it will look. at first i was worried how they'd look on a silver 33 series 2 then i came across this pic which answered my question. although it does have a gtr front bar and wing, ill probably take the center caps off and put some blue nuts on. and maybe get a drift/duck wing to replace my series 2 spoiler and get some coilies to lower her. im not only after looks, as mentioned before they are very light, strong, and resell value should still be high as everyone wants them. my question was more regarding whether i should wait a while as the economy might recover slightly to bring the price down? coz if the aussie dollar gets stronger, jap wheels will go down. but did r34 gtr rims go up in price since the dollar went to shit or have they always been fairly pricey as ppl dont buy them brand new they mainly get passed around. anyways heres the pic

can i please change my name to jimmys-33T cheers

seeing as all the jap stuff has gone up in price over the past year or so, has it affected the price of private sale r34 gtr wheels? for example lets say 1 year ago work rims were 1500 for a set, now today there 2500 now lets say today r34 gtr wheels are 2000, what where they say a year ago i hope i made sense as i need some sleep now, ill update in the morning if no1 knows wtf im talking about

i always see this answer when someone asks about reliability. how modified are we talking and are u saying that a 100% unmodified skyline would be the most reliable? ive always thought that some mods that increase power would also increase reliability, such as exhaust to eliminate restriction, upgraded intercooler to keep the intake side of things cooler, even upgrading the turbo as the stock ceramic wheeled ones are prone to destroying under higher then stock boost, but then again that comes down to running higher boost which obviously insnt going to do the engine any favours. and also a tunable ECU to keep everything running clean and smooth and safely.

when i first got my 33 my boss shouted me fuel but his fuel card only worked at the shitty servo with normal 91 and premium 95 or something, and even on the 95 stuff whenever i came to the traffic lights or a stop sign revs would drop to 100-200 and nearly stall, id hate to think how it would run on 91, this is with the stock ecu too btw. now with any 98RON fuel she runs fine never drops under 5-600 rpm

front rear cheers!!

can some1 please chop the first pic with r34 gtr rims please still undecided

cheers looks good , the rims are 18inch. (not complaining, just wanna get a rough idea in my head, how big do u think they look in the pic?)

im interested to see how my r33 would look with racing hart wheels on it, and maybe lowered a little so you cant see much of a jap between the top of the tyre and the guard cheers ! heres the wheels: front: rears: my car:

damn that WD40 works wonders

yep im convinced now hey gotRICE, how big of a job is it to mod the reo bar to fit? do u just have to grind away at some of it? ive got f all tools at home so im wondering what to borrow from work, i was thinking angle grinder and a few discs and maybe a hacksaw.

yeh im pretty convinced to upgrade now, heres a pic of the JJR stealth one, still goes through the whole core, the outlet is just facing the same way.

so has any1 felt the difference after a similar cooler upgrade then what im thinking of doing? oh and if i go for a fmic, ill be using the JJR one, not into cutting holes in my chassis, + the piping wouldn't be much shorter unless i do a forward facing plenum (dont think its needed for only 200kw)

when did u hear they were closing down? i rang em a few weeks ago for a hicas lock bar, they sed within a week or so they should get 1 in & they'll ring me, probably why they havnt gotten back to me...

take the globe out lol

how much did u pay all up? still deciding what to do, nistune or safcII/neo

just did a section on abs in tafe the other day, apparently theres a sensor near each wheel, which can get knocked, broken, or covered in crap which will set off the light, your brakes will work fine except for the abs so just dont lock it up by accident. u can also plug in a scan tool and take out the code.

ok im using a r34 SMIC on my car at the moment, some people say its good for over 200kw and some say its shit and will just act as a heat sink. ive got all the usual bolt-ons besides a tune (still got factory ecu) to see around the 200rwkw mark. i know in theory i should feel a bit more power and less restriction & a slight loss in response, but has any1 done a before & after for a r34 smic to a JJR stealth front mount with similar mods to me wether it be driving the car, being in the car or on a dyno? my car does feel pretty slugish on hot days and i will be using all the stock piping if i did it. is it worth the $600 ? -thread for the JJR stealth FMIC, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...er-t209304.html

the dump pipe is the little stumpy 90degree pipe from your turbo which bolts onto your front pipe, this is still stock, but your front pipe is aftermarket probably 3inch, save your coin and just go for a dump pipe (probably cost u $100) instead of a dump/front pipe (in one) you should notice quite a difference in power as the stock 1 is f*kin restrictive u will see just by looking into it when u take it off. but then again this will probably make your car sliiiiiightly louder but much louder spool up noise from your turbo. and resonators wont restrict your system f all if its got the same inlet and outlet as the rest of your system.

dont weld anything into your system. you know that security screen shit that some backdoors ect. have, its metal with lots of little holes in it, get some of that or something similar, cut it out in the shape of a gasket and stick it somewhere in your system, and dont thrash your car when your restricting the exhaust system also. i was speaking to the owner of an exhaust shop and he told me this is how all the big v8s get over the pits.