3LGODZILA

ok i have 2 decks with me, both 4x50w, 1 is pioneer with 1 set of RCA outputs, and the other is kenwood with 3 sets of RCA outputs 1 goes through the sub control. later on i was thinking of putting in a 4 channel amp and sub (please dont try compare diff types of subs and amps, i can get a 4channel amp and 12" sub for very cheap off a mate) so for the pioneer deck ill have to use 2 of those double adapter cables (1 male input, 2 female outputs) 1 for the red and 1 for the white, as for the kenwood deck the RCA's will plug straight in + ill have sub control. id rather be using the pioneer deck because its got an auxillary input in the front and the kenwood's face seems to half pop out when the face flips down. would there be much of a difference in quality and performance of the system using the kenwood over the pionner the way im hooking it all up? if it helps ive got alpine type s splits in the front and rear.

i just put 4 alpine type S splits in my car yesterday if that helps (front and rear) no dramas

hey i wanna cut the wires going to my door lock button (in my 33 series 2), just wondering if any1 knows what colour wires i need to cut to do this. heres a pic

ive got an r33 gts-t, stock suspension/height and all that. ill maybe lower the rear a bit in the future, front scrapes enough as it is. im thinking of buying these rims, will they fit without touching the suspension, will they scrub at all ? rims are 18" racing harts 18x8 +35, 235/35/18 8" 18x9 +38, 265/35/18 9"

how less of a life span we talking here, just for rears, and not much burnouts or drifts

as title says, im looking at buying some rims but they got semi slicks on them, can i drive on the road with them or are they for track use only.

had a feeling this would turn into an aftermarket vs aftermarket ecu thread, as for the advice if i had to get one it would be a vipec, personally i think it has the best features, local support and its the ecu my workshop deals with. theres already 100's of threads comparing full aftermarket ecu's with each other i dont want another one, all i wanna know is if i can get my series 2 r33 tuned nicely for under a grand, might do some research on that apexi unit.

i wanna get a tune and was thinking about remapping my stock ecu, who can do it in perth and how much would i be looking at, if its gonna be over a grand i may as well go for a fully aftermarket ECU

hey im so undecided as to what rims i should buy for my 33, i like so many types but i dont know what would suit my car, i like bronze and gold rims but i dont think they will suit my car, i had a feeling silver/chrome would suit it and im not really into black or white rims on a silver car, but thats why i made this thread, if u know a rim that might look good plz suggest it or even photochop it coz i have no idea wat rim i want (im looking around the 2k mark preferably under, for 2nd hand rims with tyres) ps, i know theres heaps of pics of rims, just pick 1 if u cbf heres a few shots of my car, i dont realy plan on lowering it but i may after i get new rims, as the front lip alredy scrapes on everything (daily driving ftl) and ill get some rear pods or something to make the back line up later on. heres some enkei 17's (thats all the title said) heres some grenades, its a 17inch rim that looks like r34 gtr rims volk ce28 17's silver volk ce28 17's bronze advan rcII 17's AME fin 18's enkei rp03 18's volk gt-p 18's in gold weds sa90 17's in bronze work vs 17's

ok guys i think i have a faulty gauge, i borrowed a mates from work and on the drive home compared them, i swapped them over about 3 times to make sure its accurate. my autometer gauge was reading 10psi and coz the needle would flick up so fast it wud go to 11psi then bak down to 10psi. when i used the VDO gauge it read 8psi and wen i was really booting it, it went slightly above 8psi not quite 9, and the stock gauge was reading a smidgen above the halfway mark between 0 and +7. (x100mm hg) So say its nearly 4 x100mmhg, thats nearly 8psi which is fairly accurate. now im happy ive still got another 4 psi to play with when i get my boost controller EDIT: haha just gotta call from my mate like literally 1 min after i posted this, my turbotech manual boost controller just arrived, so im gonna play around with it now, talk about timing

that thing looks like a batmobile on crack

i got the same prob, but from a custom made 3inch bellmouth dump/front pipe (may even be the JJR one got it 2nd hand) and the 2 middle bolts on the flange dont wanna go in, the heads of the bolts hit on the pipe, so i cant even get it started let alone fit a spanner on it! there is no leaks the 4 bolts on atm are holding it on fine no probs i just wanna have all 6 in to pass pits if i need to, so ive got some alan-key head ones with a small diameter head i may be able to get in (just cbf and no time lol), so for that bracket on the dump pipe i didnt put mine bak on as it was a bitch to work around it to get the bolts in, but the heatshield is still held on by 1 bolt, yes 1 bolt on the bottom left, the top one snapped, and ive just dummied 2 bolts where its supposed to go on the dump pipe bracket so it looks like its all bolted up if a coppa wants to stick his fat head under my bonnet, its held in place fine just not tightly and i doubt a cop is gonna wanna shake my heatshield with his hands just to check if its on secure.

i know SFA when it comes to the suspension and handling side of things, so as most of use probably know the turning circle in a 33 is shyte i cant even do a u-turn in some tight streets, what aftermarket mods will help this? can i adjust anything? rough prices on parts would be nice, and also will a hicas lock bar make it much worse then it alredy is?

hey all im trying to keep my car as legal as possible. im planning on taking my car over the pits or doing watevas needed to obtain permits for a few of my mods and future mods (ill take the car over when im finished them) like strut braces, gauges, catch can and exhaust, should i get my permits before the hicas lock bar as it might fail? reason is that i want a hicas lock bar asap on my car, but i wont be able to fninsh off my mods i want permits for until maybe a month when i have money. has any1 passed with a hicas lock bar installed? ill try to keep it looking stealthy by painting it black, hiding all the wires and taking out the hicas globe.

alrite i can run my lines now one quick thing should i leave the drainage plug open so its not pressurized and oil just slowly drips?

so i just need to put the can in between that hose going from the RHS rocker cover to the intake piping, so hose from the RHS rocker cover (fitting facing up) to the can, then the can to the intake piping and leave the pcv valve alone? wont this just be a 50% plumback which collects oil only on boost?

yeh i dont understand how to hook up a catch can like in the 2nd pic tho. and dont u mean, u dont want oil entering your intake ? u said entering the engine

ok after reading, and reading and reading through the lots of catch can threads i still dont have an answer, theres lots of drawn diagrams but some arnt for rb25's (the pcv is different) and some i cant make sense of, i want a 100% plumback setup that doesnt vent into atmo (im blanking off the breather thingy at the top so its legal) this is what ive got so far. if im totally wrong u can use the unmodified pic at the bottom, thanks ! so from most of the photos of ppl setups i made this one myself, is it right or wrong ? this diagram every1 seems to praise, but i cant make sense of it theres 3-4 lines going to the catch can and ive only got 2 on my can so ive followed the arrows and came up with this, is this how your supposed to hook it up by following the pic, is this right or wrong ? and heres a blank pic if any1 has time to show what its supposed to be like

so most probably my autometer gauge is out? on monday/tuesday ill try get my hands on anther one and see what happens

had a closer look at the gauges this morning (was pretty cold) it reads 11psi and 12 wen i kick the clutch a little, and on the stock gauge its definitely about 1mm over the mark in between half and +7 maybe even a little less. might have to try and borrow a gauge, btw is the ecu behind that cover near the passengers feet on the right?

its an autometer gauge, i think it says pro lite or something, i got it 2nd hand off a silviaWA member that claimed it was never used, it doesnt look like it was ever used either, mi factory dash gauge goes to full boost at like 2000rpm, this 1 shows full boost at like 2500rpm, and pretty much jumps to 10psi as the factory gauge gradually moves up

in the 1st post it says, the coolant passing through the tb makes tuning the factory ecu alot easier, so is this mod stock ecu friendly?

it doesnt really sound like your problem, but when i replaced my o2 sensor it fixed all my stalling problems 100% (touch wood), but mine really only stalled when i bipped the accelerator and went on the brakes. EDIT: actualy after reading through all this, most people seem to think its to do with the clutch, most likely not, wats ur idle like when warm and cold?, wat about with the a/c on? and when u steer does ur engine struggle a bit or do the revs go up? if ur idle is low all the time u probably just need to reset and adjust it. if ur idle is fine (warm/cold start and with a/c) but the engine struggles when its under load (braking at the lights, turning the steering wheel, maybe even bipping the throttle) then its probably the aac valve, air flow meter, or even the o2 sensor. how many km's has your car done? quick question, ur not running anything under 98RON fuel are you? this will cause ur car to run and idle like shit

i know wat ur trying to say, but just coz i stated i did some stupid things in my car doesnt mean i drive like that all the time, if i had told u about all the times ive driven like an angel id fill up these forums. i may b the only 1 admitting i do stupid stuff on the road, but over 50% of the modified cars ive been with on the road try and race me, or atleast race me when i give it a little squirt infront of them, actualy its probaly about 80%. and the comment about the radar detector, if anything i would have been going less then 5k's over coz i was overtaking a car, but when i drive past speed cameras/cops i like to brake so im going 5-10k's under the limit just incase i get done doing a 1 or 2 kays over or something like that

got the fine today, says i was going 94 in a 70 zone, so thats 24 over i got put in the 20-29km/h category, $300 fine and 3 points, i was expecting a $500-$700 so im pretty relieved, it actualy looks like im laughing and staring at the camera hahaha but it must just be the dark pic coz i remember the flash getting me in the corner of my eye. oh and my radar retector saved my ass in mirrabooka the other day, it was going off so i was looking round for the camera, ended up seeing it on the other side of the road as i passed it, phew.