3LGODZILA

the plug of a VL commodore (rb30) will fit the z32, ive just done this on the weekend the VL plug has 6 pins, but the z32 only uses 4, it still plugs in fine - u will see what i mean when u get them both together

i still dont think a bov will help but if ur dead keen on it then get a cheap one, usually the louder ones are the more expensive

well lucky enough ur car has a bov - and being an auto im guessing its fairly standard? if so then it will 'release the pressure' just fine. if ur making a fair bit of power and on the standard bov's limits then u can buy a gtr bov which is worth around $50 and can handle ALOT of power. i think he was just trying to sell you one

have u guys tryed adjusting ur idle? 1st try with the screw on the aac valve if that doesnt help dissconnect the battery and do it the long way - theres an adjuster on the ecu aswell as the screw on the aac valve - theres a DIY guide on here. to the OP - if your idle is correct or higher then it should be then this probaby wont help you RB25PWR - when u move the steering wheel on the spot it'll put a bit of load on the engine - the aac valve is supposed to raise the revs a bit when this happens. sometimes it wont lift the revs and instead it'll drop the revs if the idle isnt set perfectly so maybe try adjusting it also. what it should do: when its cold - about 1400rpm running temp - about 700rpm when i turn the a/c on - revs should raise about 100rpm when i steer on the spot - revs should bump up about 100rpm for a second then go down also note - when its cold my revs are always around 1400 and as soon as its warm there at 700, if its behaving weird like idling high when its warm and sometimes low when its cold then u gotta problem - i would start with cleaning the aac valve, checking the resistance of the coils (im not sure what they should be - im sure some research will find the answer) and resetting the idle. as said before changing the ecu probably is a good idea, i mean theres plenty around so it shouldnt be hard to source one, and also if something isnt right in the ecu then literally no matter what u do with all the sensors and switches it wont make a difference

im thinking of doin the same with my silver series 2 aswell, paint them black IMO

just a quick question, is the z32 physically the same as the standard r33 rb25det series 2 afm? i know i have to modify the plug but is the inlet/outlet the same diameter to bolt up to my intake pipe and pod filter adapter? cheers

u mean this guy heated then up till they were glowing?

i was always taught earth was earth. for example hooking up voltage reducers only the positive goes through the neg isn't touched. not doubting you or anything, but yeah might have a chat to the old timer at my work he seems to know everything lol

ive heard of sand blasting plugs (obviously very fine beads) but not oxying them :S but spark plugs are cheap as f**k these days, especially coppers...

are u getting positives and negatives mixed around? like how sensors use a +5volts not +12 ? yes the signal wire is a variable resistance to EARTH, ie straight to ground, therefore every ground is the same. and im not gonna chuck and eyelet on the safc ground wire and just ground it, im still gonna go off the earth wire on the ecu, its just ive gotta do that with the avc-r and safc so ill need 4 wires hooked onto the 1 earth. im guessing they did it differently on the r33 to keep it neater and the rx-7 ecu must just have 1 main earth, its got others but i think they like to have an independent earth for each injector. but yeah id just be guessing i dont know much when it comes to the internals of the ecu

so u've installed an safc or something and grounded the wires how u normally would and it works fine? i can see what ur saying, its just that they're so anal about it they have like 3 diagrams on it ffs, i didnt have the balls to try and do it my way to test it so i just followed the guide. if someone can confirm that they've earthed it normally then thats good enough for me

has anyone actually tried one of those metalcat ones? like hows the length compare to a nissan cat - if its too long its gonna be no good if its too short u'll have to dodgily extend it. might give Repco a buzz tomorrow just to price up a couple

OK were getting a little electrical here. and because the contact page on the apexi site is blank, i don't know who to contact, if anyone can point me in the right direction...i'm listening anyone who's installed a SAFC or AVC-R or something similar will know what i'm on about, when u hook up the earth wire apexi specifically says to join 2 grounds to 1 wire and VERRRRY important that one comes before the other, why is this? does any1 have a clue? here's my dilemma, on my r33 i had both installed. the earth wire for the SAFC was different to the earth wire on the AVC-R. BUT now i wanna install both on an RX-7 and the earth wire for the SAFC is the same wire as on the AVC-R, in my head yeah i know how to wire it up BUT since apexi is sooo anal about getting 1 wire before the other and it must be at least 1 cm apart from each other i'm thinking they made the earth on separate wires on the r33 for the reason of running both a SAFC and AVC-R, i just cant see why they didn't do it like that on the RX-7?? unless the RX-7 has 1 main ECU earth and the reason they did it like that on the r33 was to spread out the solder joins. i dunno.

take it back? how bad is it pulling? every car is going to pull a bit. im not gonna get into this too much i remember seeing a similar thread which its all covered in, pretty sure was in the WA section too. edit: read ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...-W-t329747.html

yeah i meant the hose that goes on the bov not the hard piping, there should be enough hose there to play with if i remember correctly - did mine ages ago ey

did u just clamp a hose onto another hose? thats where i was getting at with cutting a short length of metal pipe and putting it inside the hose so when u clamp the new hose over it doesnt keep squashing it. im guessing the vibrating is from the inside diameter being too small? i duno im no expert but try searching 'gtr bov' i know i read a few threads where ppl say theirs makes a honking/farting noise but with mine it sounds near on identical to the stock rb25 one

wats a waste of time? it took about 2 minutes to take off the bov and stick the shim in. to the others i 4got to mention its on an r33 gtst not a gtr hanaldo - im not too sure how u would do it on a standard setup as ive got a metal intake pipe and the fitting is in a different spot so i ended up chopping and modding the standard bov hard piping and used some aftermarket silicone hose which is pretty flexable and even then i had to really to the clamp on tight where its on the hard pipe and it juuuuuuust stretched over the bov outlet - its a big bastard lol. but maybe give this ago - get some pipe about 30mm long (atleast a few mm thick so that its not gonna bend easy) that can fit snug inside the recirc hose, also shorten the recirc hose a bit, then get a little length of aftermarket silicone hose (maybe 100mm long) and clamp it around the recirc hose (the metal pipe inside so it doesnt squash it and so u can also make it tight) and stretch the other end over the bov so i guess the shims aren't standard, might drill the hole out a few mm so it doesnt flutter as much see if does anything.

i wonder if all the gunky crap will block up the valves/damage the bores would like to hear an engine builders opinion, just like engine flush, sure the manufacture says its all great, but is it?

bypass/bridge the only point of an immobilizer is for safety so no1 steals the car, so if u join the circuits that you broke to run through the immobilizer it'll work fine

wtf is it

just read ur last post, has it got the standard ecu? if so try pulling the codes with a scan tool, at least you'll get an idea where to start looking

try disconnecting the sensor in the de-cat if its not already. btw mufflers can also collapse not just cats, wat about trying to drop the exhaust? at least to eliminate that

i bought some gtr bov's from an r32 that was getting wrecked, the car was standard and the bov's were still mounted on that piece of pipe. so, when removing them they had the standard gasket, then in between the bov and the normal gasket they both had metal shims/gaskets that reduced the size by quite alot, just wondering if this is standard? i tried searching and havn't found 1 person mention it. when running high boost wouldn't this be an upgrade to remove these 'shims' to allow more air to go through? im just surprised no one has mentioned them before, unless the'yre not standard. also another thing, my car sometimes stalls (in heavy traffic for example cruising at 3000rpm then letting go of the accelerator and clutching in while going on the brakes) with the gtr bov - with just the normal gasket, so i tried using one of the shims and surprisingly the car runs a shitload better, it hasnt stalled once, but it is fluttering even at 5psi, not as much as when i was running no bov but. now i dont wanna start another 'doez flutterz kill my turbo yo' thread. but ive already blown 1 turbo so im not a fan of flutter, now running the shim wouldn't be as bad as running no bov would it? i mean it still flutters but its not like ALL the air is going back through to pod some is still venting through the bov, ill be running around 18psi from a highflow once i get it tuned. btw heres some pics

ive installed a few immobilizers and i have had a faulty unit so it is a possibility. did u hook it up correctly? cut the main ignition wire - with your test light it should only have power when the key is on and when u turn it to start it still has power, run this wire through one of the immobilizing circuit and make sure u connect the ignition wire (this is separate) to the side coming off the key barrel. why dont you just bypass the immobilizer? get a small piece of wire and just twitch it around both sides of the wire u ran through the immobilizer. and if u cant hear the fuel pump then check if theres power there

if everythings good and its still doing it, try putting a higher wattage globe in one of the RHS indicators to load it up a bit