omy-33

just moved the car in the garage to start work on it, the ecutalk readout was, 13 degrees celcius, 1112rpm, timing was high 25(little zero) B. afm 1.530v, TPS 0.34v, 02 0.77v, aac 20. dunno if that info will help at all, also i did notice yesterday sitting in traffic the car which usually runs at a temp of 82 it had jumped up to 86 and then after driving out of traffic onto the highway it sat on 84. I know it sounds trivial but I thought I would add as much info as I could. timing seams really high... Edit = last few days car also would randomly idle high (1500-2000) until i gave it a quick pump in nuetral then it would die back down to 700-800

Hey guys, past week or so the car has been runnng odd, you know how sometimes you can just tell? Well anyway the problem has really only started after I put a Apexi catback exhaust on the car. The car drives fine no misses, no spluttering. Fuel consumption sits about 9-10 lts on the highway which is about right. I have in the last 12 month put splitfires in dues to stock coils dying. New iridiums went in less then 7000klms ago. The only real symptom it has is when shifting gears or decelarating from hard acceleration the exhaust pops. Now this symptom could also be from a smaller cat that I am yet to change. I have a 3 inch system with a 2.5inch cat. Anyway after a "hunch" I looked at the fault codes on my ecutalk display and it came up with code 21 ignition signal. I know this could b a number of things like wire loom, coilpacks, sparkplugs, loose ecu or bad earth. How can I test my coilpacks and wire loom without a volt meter? I'm opening the bonnet up today an tinkering around to see if there is any damage. But for the life of me I don't really know what's wrong with it. So any advice will help. Will check sau every hour or so as I work on it. Thanks guys.

i think your on the money there rb2530, i spoke to my mech again today and the parts are coming from nissan japan, no wonder they are expensive.. gotta limp the car around for the next week or 2 untill they arrive here..

As the topic states i was quoted $400 for a ball joint (or pieces of it) i was told by my mech that the car has a whole "ball joint/king pin" and it is fragged, it has a lot of movement and needs to be replaced, now if the part itself is around $400 im going to assume his labour is going to be around the same, does $800 or near there sound right for the removal of the old ball joint and replaced with a new one. he said my rear tie rod ends or something similar need replacing as well, what sort of money am i looking at to replace these as well. thanks for your time.

well, new oil is in the diff now. its still locking on tight corners, more so when my clutch is still a little engauged. any ideas of what it could be? im serious when i say this never used to happen with it.

should sit around the 600-800 mark im pretty sure at an idle.

sorry if u answered this already hane, but when does your boost come on, how much boost, and does it hold until redline?

hey guys, might be a retarded question, i'v searched the site and google but cant seam to find an install guide for a hks ssq bov with flange, is there one? any pointers i need to know, was thinking of either getting a shorter replacement intercooler pipe and replacing the entire stock bov pipe. or try to find a silicone similar hose.

i took some snaps this arvo i dont know if it will help.

You guys might be on to something with the aftermarket diff. The car did have after market greddy suspension, i have it booked into the mech next monday to have the drivers side ball joint replaced, hopefully the diff just needs some new oil. Will the mechanic have to take the housing of to have a look, and will there be any special markings or stamps on afyermarket diffs? (so the stock diff would never "clunk" in a tight corner right?)

hey guys seam to be having a bit of trouble with my diff, and i am after advice.. what has been happening over the last 6 or so months is the diff seams to be getting very tight/clunky when turning at a T intersection when i have just taken my foot of the clutch. now it is starting to do this at higher speeds which it never used to do (40kph thru a roundabout) can anyone tell me what is actually happening as it is just the stock diff, and it never used to do it. if i need to look at replacing things, what should i be looking for, jut shimming, rebuilding, aftermarket? i just want it to stop clunking also my friend mentioned to me that i should stop driving it incase it locks up, will it actually lock up, and if it does what will happen? in anycase i think it will need to see a mechanic, as its my daily driver. any advice would go a long way, thanks.

Awesome to hear. Thanks guys.

Hey guys I have a question. I am keen to have my ecu rechipped, with nistune but I also have a ecutalk v2 display, I was wondering if the 2 were compatible and if my ecutalk display would still work after having nistune installed. I have done several searches on google and various forums and I have been unable to find any info. any help would go a long way thanks.

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also has exedy heavy duty clutch.

hi guys up for sale is my beloved manual r33 gts-t. i am going over seas' and need it gone by may, my asking price is 14,000 ono. it has 124xxx km's on it. and i am the only australian owner of this car since it was imported from japan at 100xxx km's. it is in the first roll outs of the series 2. 1/95 serviced every 10k by a mechnic and oil/oil filter changed every 5k by myself. it has the following modifications. Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy type-s suspension all round. 4 inch split dump-pipe to cat. k&n pod filter. heatshield for pod filter. manual bleed boost controller running 10 pounds of boost. splitfire coilpacks.r33-gtr driver and passenger seats. a custom blue leather back seat. alpine head unit. (has ipod connection) type s 4'' alpine fronts. kenwood 6x9s'. sony xplode mono block amp. sony xplode 1000w sub 12 inch. drift tec powdercoated 16's. all this car needs is an exhaust from the cat back which i havent had the money to do. it also comes with all original parts (side mount, airbox) as well as 2 gauges that weren't fitted as because i havent had the time or money. (pics in the thumbnails) as i said i am going to europe in may and need it gone. it also comes with personalised plates (omy-33" (thumbnails attched). 14k ono. thanks if u need further information just post or pm me.

was just cruising the threads, relised that i havent been on the forums for quite a few months, just seeing how every1 is, have i missed much??

I had the 60g Aussie model 6 months after buying it, it died so I rang up Sony and they repaired it for free. But I was still without for a couple of months. I got it back and threw in a 240gb hdd an it hasn't missed a beat now.

now i feel like and idiot, yea i hit that switch with trhe vacuum cleaner, turned them off now, lol, i'v been disconnecting the battery since yesterday morning. what a d*ck

hey guys took the 33 gts-t out for a drive today, and took it for a wash and vacuum. anyway when i was finished i noticed the clock lights were dimmed out, didn't think anything of it, when i got home i put the alarm on and noticed the parker lights already on, and usually they flash, they didn't this time, the alarm is a cyclops, and now im just locking the car up and dissconnecting the battery, i have a feeling it may be the alarm, but i'm not sure, and the installers arn't open untill tuesday, any pointers would be much appriecated,

ok guys can a mod please close the thread?

then why post in the bloody thread. idiot. i'm sure 2 make this official an sau exec would have to be there anyway. i was thinking near north lakes or somewhere near by, do u have any ideas? yea mate if i can get enough interest in it, i'll plot out a decent trip.

^^^nice^^^ i'm trying to organise this for the ppl who either can't or just won't travel that distance. i have a wrx and a 300zx that will most probably attend aswell as well as an ex show car (lancer)

i spose the drivers side ball joint and bushes are stuffed? i need those parts. lol