SLY-25T

parkie^^ not being an asshole. just pointing it out nice lookin exhaust. would be light as. GL with sale.

anddddddddd i reply a month l8r. i dont check this thread often as i never get spotted lol. sheng i prob didnt notice you beep cause im usually in my own lil world. lol or could have been that u werent in a line surprised i havent seen u around BLEVIT. only live in the next suburb.

i think the N1 pump has the same blade design. standard has 8 blades from wat i can remember. looks good.

the induction pipe is a piece of shiit. installed it today. doesnt look like it hooks up with the BOV return but it doesnt hook up to the oil pipe to the head. had to get some new hose. shiit quality too. got it and it looked like it had been slid on a floor. no extra induction noise and no dose or anything like that. i suggest u get a custom one made up. just a couple of silicone adaptors, say 90degree bent 2inch to 3inch piece (guessing), to a 3 inch piece of pipe and another silicone joiner to the AFM. then just drill holes and weld on the extras u need.

previous owner possibly took the boost gauge reading from the Tpiece? havent seen it run from there though. usually run from the thin hose coming off the back of the plenum that goes to a lil box type thing near the drivers side firewall

i was only running 7 on my standard. then wen i got FMIC and boost controller i turned up to 10/11

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...arts/fr1bar.jpg s1 style but opened up a bit more. if not there are a couple others on the site. www.uniqueautosports.com cant vouch for their quality though

i got it too Personal Message brickerza View Member Profile Add as Friend Send Message Add to PM block list Forward PM Find Member's Topics Find Member's Posts Weekend, Today, 08:36 AM Rank: RB20E Group: Members Posts: 0 Member No.: 61,986 Joined: 21st April, 2009 Do it now!

yeah u got a standard nissan one. if you want a decent one check out these http://www.modyourcar.com.au/index.php?cPath=17_93

+1 for black silicone.

take ur door trim off. up the top u will see 2 bolts that hold a lil felt pad against the window. adjust them so they sit tighter against the window. got rid of some of my rattling. cant hurt to try

the bar your talking about is called a reo bar. i had to trim a bit off mine to get it back on. just mark on the reo how much you have to cut and get out the grinder. lol.

i have similar mods to what you want. bought my stealth intercooler from just jap- cheap looking kit but does its job bought a 70buck boostcontroller. looks like it holds boost pretty well. bought front and rear strut braces from justjap- 100 bucks each. cheap but do the job. and ill be buying that induction pipe soon. not so much for performance but just looks. all cheap stuff and does the job fine. its not like im trying to build a track or drag monster so dont really need the brand name parts. if i had the money i might have bought the good stuff. but with all that stuff added up above, i would have only been able to buy a good electronic boost controller.

will have to confirm r33 is the same. anyone got hinge pics?

Interesting setup. Thanks for that WRRR

lol that is a good way to explain it. I have a basic understanding of how an engine works but don't know the finer details. Thanks for the explanation Lith. I now understand what you were saying about them fighting each other.

Hmmm in saying that, do you think that there could be some sort of switch on/off built into the computer system? In order to shut off the larger turbo through 0-3500rpm, then turn it on 3500-7/8000rpm and vice cersa for the smaller? Sounds stupid and i figure it would be hard to simply turn on and off a turbo but interesting to know. Also Lithium, assuming the motor was built with (im guessing) some type of valve variation, eg say a VVTi system with its own maps for valve timing for each turbo. would this work? Or am I simply making stuff up in my head? lol

Thanks Moneypit. I've heard of the sequential setup but never actually understood what it meant. So basically, it's not viable as the money-power ratio would be severly one sided due to custom fabrications and 'one-off' pieces (including ECU). I would have thought though that it wouldn't really make a diff that only 3 cylinders are pumping each turbo as once the smaller turbo begins to spool, more air is being pushed through and could spin the larger one fairly easily? Works in my head but might not in real life. lol

Possibly a stupid question and could get flamed but was thinking about it the other day. Had a quick search and nothing turned up. Question is..... Would a twin turbo setup work with one turbo being larger than the other? Not over the top larger. Just a setup like a smaller turbo for the quick response and midrange, and a slightly larger one for mid and top end. Or would this system just fail? Has anyone ever tried? Preparing to get flamed...

i was thinking about making my own up soon. also keen for pics

happy birthday

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/priceli...34oembonnet.jpg unique autosports have one for 34. could ask if they have for 33

i had wat ur describing Neuroglider. could only get the laser platinum sparkys at the time, chucked those in and nearly no missfire at all. but get the platinums as they last around 80000kms. ppl tend to prefer the copper plugs but they have to be changed around every 10000km. will be drenching coils in silicone maybe over weekend to see if it gets rid of the fidgety lil missfire that come every now and then.

+1 for the beefy rotors nd brakes. other than that it looks f*kin good!!! congrats on the outcome! only prob i really have with the flared guards at the rear is the fuel flap. i think ive only seen one kit that brings the fuel flap out to line up with the extra width.

AFAIK the just jap r33 GTR one is a oil catch can/ washer bottle in one. prob is ive heard you have to modify a lil to fit gtst. looks good and is fairly cheap (300 bucks). but as mushroom said, a fabricator could make one exactly how you want it to and where you want it to sit.