116.hks

my advice to ya mate is to look over the car and if he sees something that he is unsure about then i would remove it. unfortunetly he is branded by the cops so if he does something stupid again then they'll be harder on him next time. it has happened to a mate of mine, so after the first time he got caught, we keeped the stuff they got him for and just put it back on the car so he would be clear the insecption. unfortunetly thats how it goes.

hey. just go to an auto elect and get an aftermarket two pin job. wiring may need to changed a little. they should only charge $30 max to fit. not to hard of a job if you know what ya doing.

hey mate.. the current draw drain on any vehicle is no large then 0.01 - 0.05. any greater then that is enough to drain a battery overnite especially if you are doing short trips and stop starting alot. i usually tell my customers at work if the battery is flat either drive the vehicle through peak hour traffic or put on a charger overnite. the only vehicles that i have seen with a larger current draw are late model jags, mercs ect due to the amount of body control modules. the most common problem i've seen through my workshop when the battery is going flat is due to incorrect aftermarket fitment. eg stereo, alarms, computers even faulty alt etc. as i'm an auto elect by trade i would say take back to the person you got the alt done through and ask for a current draw check. hope this helps

thanks for the responses. it was my old tuners idea to shotpeened rods for some reason. would have perfered to have forgies or the 26 rods. should now in a couple of weeks after it get tuned. cheers.

yeah mate, i just installed a small ctech charger to my car. it only puts in wat it needs. you can hard wire it to the battery and just plug in when you want. it regulates the amps so it doesn't boil the battery. i bought mine from my workshop but i think repco sells them as well.

i have a rb25 that has been rebuit with standard rods that have been shot peened. just wondering if anyone out there can shed some light on whether it has strengthened them a little or not. cheers

thats a very big turbo for, i take it, a stock rb20. i totally agree with daniel and go for a gt2530 or similar. you'll still have bottom end power with a bit more top end.

yeah sorry bout posting the thread a again. i usually use millenium motorsports and i know mark from godzilla speaks to carlos alot, i'm just trying to find someone from this side of town for emergency problems. carlos is a very good tuner, just a bit far to travel all the time thats all.

if me car is finished by then you can count me in.

hi all. just chasing any info on rpm dyno and performance in morayfield. has anyone had work done by them? requiring their service to tune my skyline with wolf v500. all info would be much appreciated.

hey guys. just inquiring has any on had work or dyno tune from rpm performance and dyno at morayfield. sending my r32 4door to them in a weeks time after fitting a wolf v500 management to it. any info would be appreciated. cheers.

when you say " little to no oil " where did the oil go? you may have caused more damage then i initially thought. if you have starved the bottom end of oil, it's possible that you have caused bottom end damaged.

hey mate. if you have change the steering wheel back to an air bag type you will need to erase the clock spring code. because the vehicle has been driving with out an air bag it has logged a hard code. your local auto elec should be able to clear that code if they can't you might need to go to nissan and see if the have the info on their tech to clear it. hope this helps.

yeah mate by the sounds of it you could have a noisey lifter. i don't think it sounds like a bottom end knock. as paul stated knocking or pinging as it is mostly refered to, happens more when the vehicle is under load. hope this sheds a bit of light.

wat a f**king crack up. i really felt for ya. wat sucker. but ya heart was in the right place. well done.

how ya going mate. i would definetly stay with getting a stock turbo replace your worn turbo. i have seen first hand what happens when you buy cheap chinese type turbos. not pretty. lets just say your exhaust wont rust. lol. i agree with the others. save up and buy a decent plug in type computer, but you could also do minor up grades such as fuel pump, fuel reg and a decent flowing exhaust if you don't already have one. turbo upgrade without management is pointless. for 400 i would probly buy that turbo to get me out of trouble. good luck.

hey guys. just chasing any info on rpm performance and dyno at morayfield qld. i'm planning on sending my r32 to them in a weeks time to get fully tuned, as i've just installed a wolf v500. any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers.

how ya going mate. i've got a rb25 in my r32 with a greddy plenuim and i have blocked off where the air bypass valve sits and i've had no problems with the car stalling even with the air con on. even on the old rb20 before if expired it never worked properly either. if you are worried bout the vacum hoses and stuff and just bypass everything. goodluck with it and put some pics up when ya done.

if you are getting power to the injectors and coils i'd be making sure a pin hasn't backed out of a plug somwhere. other then that you've replaced everything that could cause it. double check all the power supplies at your computer again and check if you are getting a pulse on the injector outputs.

sorry mate. the speedo head is the actual speedo.

yeah mate had the exact problem with a customers car at work. pulled it apart and found two dry solder joints. resolder them and it worked like a treat. if you are good with a solder iron then give it a go cos if you take else where they will tell you to replace the remote.

that is true wat old mate said but before you replace the speedo head check the cable isn't broken as well. i've had this happen to my r32.

hows it going guys. me name is brad i live in brisbane and i'm a pround owner of a r32 4 door gtst. i'm currently in the process of doing more modifications to her. i fitted a mildly work rb25 to it last year and currently changing turbos again. not to happy with the way it turned out and found that the turbo was not the type it should be and the computer was good but to get what wanted i've ditched it to. i've just fitted a garret gt 3582r and wolf v500 to it. hoping to get in the vacinity of 400 - 450 at the rears. so yeah thats bout it. cheers

mate for starters the original tacho will never work with the rb20 computer as the signal is different. secondly i'm pretty sure the s13 came out with a transducer type speedo where the r32 comes out with a cable driven speedo. the reverse lights don't work because they're not hooked up or fuse could be blown.

yeah mate that should be normal. i'll double check on me wifes 33 tomorrow on how they switch. when u say you unplugged the connectors behind the tailights did you disconnect each light and the front lights stayed on or you unplugged the rear lights completely and they stayed on? yeah if you start from the front to the back you should stumble across the problem. just remember to check the front parkers as well, to make sure they go off as well if you start unplugging the harness towards the rear. good luck.